OIL and WATER !!

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scrag

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I snapped a rusted bolt in the engine block....I snapped only a few threads I believe off of one of the two long bolts that crank down the water pump. How long are these bolts usually? Is there anyway I can bypass taking it out since I am trying to avoid having to take off the timing chain cover? Another darn question is that whenever I start up my car or drive it cold/anytime it appears the oil filter is leaking but i cannot tell if it is the filter or the pan..I need some help on these two fellas so in advacne I thank you,
- SCRAG
 
The longest bolts should be about 6 1/2" (which includes the head). This is where left handed drill bits work well...
If you don't want to take it out, what were you doing when you broke it?

As for the oil leak, I would wash the area clean and then try to find the leak. You didn't leave the old o.f. gasket on and then try to use 2 gaskets did you?
C
 
In my opinion, you need to fix that, whatever it takes. The pump / timing cover does not have all that many bolts, and just one missing could cause leaks/ warping of the cover or pump.
 
you might, short term, get away with putting a shorter bolt in, if there are any threads. does it leak coolant from the hole?
 
The cover needs to come off and it needs to be repaired.
 
The up side is once the cover's off, it's a very easy fix. On your leak, you need to figure out what's leaking. If its the filter, replace it. If it's the plate, get the gaskets and replace them. If it's the pan, you could try snugging the biolts but that is temperary and if it's a gasket leaking, you need to drop the steering, then the pan, and replace the gasket. Not much else you can really do...
 
clhyer said:
The longest bolts should be about 6 1/2" (which includes the head). This is where left handed drill bits work well...
If you don't want to take it out, what were you doing when you broke it?

As for the oil leak, I would wash the area clean and then try to find the leak. You didn't leave the old o.f. gasket on and then try to use 2 gaskets did you?
C
Click to expand...
I didn't know you can do that...I always thought that the gaskets were attached more permanen than that....If so then definitely young gun mistake
Thanks
-SCRAG
 
kursplat said:
you might, short term, get away with putting a shorter bolt in, if there are any threads. does it leak coolant from the hole?
Click to expand...
Just a drip and a drop but not as bad as some of the bolts i tried. I was wondering if there is a way to get the little bit of thread out w/o ripping into the timing cover, thats all and maybe how else i can subside the dripping and dropping a little better.
Thanks.
 
You're going to just have to suck it up and take off the timing case cover if you want to fix it properly. While you're in there check the timing chain, they're usually loose.

As for the drip... if it makes any difference, I've never owned a Mopar that didn't drip something no matter how much I fixed it. It's kind of the nature of the beast. Oil's cheap.
 
Scrag, it sounds like the dripping and dropping is water, is that correct? If so, you've really got a "fairly simple" fix.
First, tell us what you are working on - a /6 or SB? I assumed a SB in my earlier answer to you. Remove the water pump and timing cover. It's not that bad of a job. Take some pics as you go along so that you know how things go back together. Get the broken bolt out. If you have to drill it out, get a set of reverse drill bits. Get a new bolt, all of these bolts should be grade 5 or better. Replace any of them that are not grade 5.

As mentioned, this is a good time to inspect and replace if necessary the timing chain. When you reassemble, check to see which bolts go into the water jacket - those get a little dab of RTV on the threads to seal them up and prevent those drips and drops.
When you are taking it apart, for whatever reason, there is about 5 different sizes (or more) of bolts used. Make a sketch and keep track of which bolts went in which hole.

As for the oil leak, sometimes those gaskets on the old filter are stuck to the block and don't come off with the filter. When you put the last new filter on, did you oil the gasket before screwing it on? It helps to get a good seal.
C
 
clhyer said:
...Remove the water pump and timing cover. It's not that bad of a job. Take some pics as you go along so that you know how things go back together. Get the broken bolt out. If you have to drill it out, get a set of reverse drill bits. Get a new bolt, all of these bolts should be grade 5 or better. Replace any of them that are not grade 5.

As mentioned, this is a good time to inspect and replace if necessary the timing chain. When you reassemble, check to see which bolts go into the water jacket - those get a little dab of RTV on the threads to seal them up and prevent those drips and drops.
When you are taking it apart, for whatever reason, there is about 5 different sizes (or more) of bolts used. Make a sketch and keep track of which bolts went in which hole.

As for the oil leak, sometimes those gaskets on the old filter are stuck to the block and don't come off with the filter. When you put the last new filter on, did you oil the gasket before screwing it on? It helps to get a good seal.
C
Click to expand...
he's right, if it's a non A/C car it's not a bad job at all. a couple hours after you've done a few. if you have A/C get a couple towels for the fenders and place a 2x4 or steel beam over the top of the compressor and float it off the motor with some rope when you get to that part. trying to use a coat hanger off the battery strap or something sucks.
and don't forget the 2 front oil pan bolts that go into the timeing cover. it's a b**** to remove with then still in. you'll need a new oil pan lip gasket too

good luck
 
Usually the long bolts break because the two different metals, the bolt being steel and the cover aluminum react and cause corrosion along the length of the bolt over time and when you try and remove the bolts one will break. After you get the cover off there will be a lot of the bolt left to work with and I've always been able to remove them without to much trouble. On the oil leak i have also found the plate behind the oil filter can warp and cause a leak. it is held on by the center bolt that the filter screws onto.
 
It will prevent this from happening again if you coat not only the bolt threads, but also the entire length of the bolt where it goes through the timing cover with high temp silicone. It will prevent the bolt seizing up against the timing cover again.
 
with the oil filter....how can i tell what the problem is? I just popped it off and the filter gasket stuck to that back plate instead of the filter, though i believe this to be unusual many may not.
 
clhyer said:
Scrag, it sounds like the dripping and dropping is water, is that correct? If so, you've really got a "fairly simple" fix.
First, tell us what you are working on - a /6 or SB? I assumed a SB in my earlier answer to you. Remove the water pump and timing cover. It's not that bad of a job. Take some pics as you go along so that you know how things go back together. Get the broken bolt out. If you have to drill it out, get a set of reverse drill bits. Get a new bolt, all of these bolts should be grade 5 or better. Replace any of them that are not grade 5.

As mentioned, this is a good time to inspect and replace if necessary the timing chain. When you reassemble, check to see which bolts go into the water jacket - those get a little dab of RTV on the threads to seal them up and prevent those drips and drops.
When you are taking it apart, for whatever reason, there is about 5 different sizes (or more) of bolts used. Make a sketch and keep track of which bolts went in which hole.

As for the oil leak, sometimes those gaskets on the old filter are stuck to the block and don't come off with the filter. When you put the last new filter on, did you oil the gasket before screwing it on? It helps to get a good seal.
C
Click to expand...
Yes, I'm working with a LA 360ci SB. Thanks for the input by the way. And yes I oiled the seal
 
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