oiling mods for dummies

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Or springs for a flat tappet cam and the aggressive roller close rate bounced the valves off the seats and fractured the valves?
 
I would take a close look at the 308 heads - the shaft oil feed holes specifically and see if they are blocked off in the heads (set screw or plugging the passage at the head gasket end). The bars look fine to me.
If I had to guess you have issues with clearances, but you also have two competing oiling systems for the top end (shafts through the unblocked RPM feeds, plus pushrods from the lifters) which basically means the lower end never got as much oil as it should have.
The valves are cracked from loss of valve control - not heat or coil bind. You might be close to coil bind because we can't tell by the picture but that's not going to crack heads. Slamming onto the seat would - aka not enough valve spring for the cam. Hence my question on the cam. Basically - you got a mess.
Oh - and you can't "take up clearance" with rings. You can run the wrong piston and the right ring but you caused some big issues with wear, noise, and ring seal - you didn;t take up anything.
Sorry dude- that "builder" fucked you over huge. My best advice - get it to someone who can go through it top to bottom. Oh - on the cover pickup - have one made. Instructions are available if you look hard enough. Mopar engine & track manuals from the 70s should have them because the placement of the hole in the cover is important. Easiest way is to weld a fitting onto the cover, then fab up a pickup
 
Well said Moper - exactly what were dealing with, all we can do at this point in go forward cautiously-i have FULL confidence in our new machinest-one of the first things he said about the heads was it wasn't enough spring-they are beehives-he said he only uses double stack P.AC. springs so we'll see.
 
I also know for sure the oiling originally to the heads was plugged with a set screw at the deck surface, because the original jesel set up was on individual shafts not one shaft in the head . steve
 
There's your problem. Modify the RPMS so the Jesel blocks can be used, plug the oil feeds, and run the hollow pushrods, then all you have to do is fix all the lower end issues.
 
I may have the blueprint for that oil pump cover mod. I'll look later when i'm home.
 
I guess you have learned, next time your oil pressure starts going away, don't keep running the engine. Oil pressure is as good a diagnostic tool as anything, when it comes to the internal condition of your engine.
 
In the heat of battle, what streeter looks at any gauge other than the tach? My car goes 93 in the 1/8,in less than 8 seconds. Im very busy in those seconds.
Once the damage starts from oil pressure loss, you cant hardly minimize it.Shutting down at 7000,or 6000, the engine still need time to come to a stop. Even just one second is more than 100 revolutions. I shift at 7200. The engine needs more than 1 second to stop spinning.That could be 300 revolutions or more. Thats why I dont have no steenkeeng oil pressure gauge.This old streeter would never catch it anyway.
 
Moper-?????? Where's the problem? ?? The plugs were removed when he put the rpm's on .
 
Bakerlite----the engine builder was in the pits right next to us and claimed oil pressure was good enough to run . obviously at that point we were still trusting him.
 
Man i feel like im not doing my mopar brothers help by not revealing who this is to hopefully save someone the same problems
 
swifter said:
Man i feel like im not doing my mopar brothers help by not revealing who this is to hopefully save someone the same problems
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Yeah it would be interesting to know......pm me if you don't wanna put it out there.
 
Have the heads and pistons home, can someone briefly tell me how to cc the chambers-i just leveled the heads and bought a medicine syringe that is calibrated in Ml so its the same as c.c.'s -i have the spark plugs in yet and the two i did were 76cc's someone tell me if im doing it wrong
 
Is this right???
 

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Is this right???
 

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Due to surface tension, you will have more water there than if you held a piece of clear plexiglas over the opening.
 
That i cant answer moper i know they are roller lifter but dont know what brand and dont know what push rods he used they are at the machinest
 
Dont know what brand but they are rollers -have no idea on push rods
 
Ok 67 cc with plexi glass over chamber -steve
 
AJ/FormS said:
In the heat of battle, what streeter looks at any gauge other than the tach? My car goes 93 in the 1/8,in less than 8 seconds. Im very busy in those seconds.
Once the damage starts from oil pressure loss, you cant hardly minimize it.Shutting down at 7000,or 6000, the engine still need time to come to a stop. Even just one second is more than 100 revolutions. I shift at 7200. The engine needs more than 1 second to stop spinning.That could be 300 revolutions or more. Thats why I dont have no steenkeeng oil pressure gauge.This old streeter would never catch it anyway.
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So if your oil pressure at idle is usually 60psi and then you notice it props to 30 psi at idle, what cha gonna do??? It doesn't always just go away instantly you know...
 
swifter said:
Bakerlite----the engine builder was in the pits right next to us and claimed oil pressure was good enough to run . obviously at that point we were still trusting him.
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Yes I realize that, I did read your post which said that. Just saying that now you have learned a valuable thing, actually two valuable things, the other is " When there is doubt, there is no doubt".
I too would like to know who the builder is...You want the Mopar communities help, then that's OK but you can also help others in that community by warning them of the potential risk of dealing with this guy..
 
Bakerlite did i personally piss u off in some way??? Im looking for help here-"mopar community"did u notice the amount of posts and how long I've been a member here? ??? I've personally help hundreds of guys with there gen 3 transplants-i know that motor in and out but i dont know the 360 as good.i apologize if in some way i did something to upset u -just seems your tone is condensending.
 
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