Orange clear or raw??

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mopowers

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For those of you with aluminum manifolds, do you paint them to keep them looking good? Is there an engine paint that looks like raw cast aluminum? Or a satin clear that'll seal the cast aluminum and hold up without turning yellow?

I'm getting ready to install a new RPM airgap intake and am tired of dirty cast aluminum parts. What do you recommend?
 
Raw is eventually (or sooner) going to look dirty

There might be, but I've never seen a durable clear

Even though mine is presently "not" I simply prefer they are painted, either same or complementary engine paint color
 
Orange. Painted my Holley Street Dominator to blend in. Just bought Edelbrock RPM heads and they will be painted as well.
 

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I like the look of Rustoleum hammer finish silver/aluminum. I did this after trying for a year to keep the Raw aluminum look. total PITA.
 
I prefer the intake and heads engine color. Natural looks too chevy to me

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I really like the painted look also. Problem is, I'm not sure what paint was used on the engine. All I know is it was a rattle can. Can you guys help identifying the brand? I only have a few pictures.

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I think you're right, Joe. Pretty sure it's not duplicolor or plasticoat. Maybe VHT? Rustoleum? MP street hemi?

Found another picture of when I fixed a broken exhaust stud.

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I like raw aluminum or black powdercoat. I'm not a fan of factory colored engines. If there was a clear that wouldn't yellow it would be nice. I've heard there is a clear powdercoat avaiable.
 
Orange. Painted my Holley Street Dominator to blend in. Just bought Edelbrock RPM heads and they will be painted as well.

I will be putting the same motor (383) and intake in my 69 Valiant but since my car is white with blue interior I'm painting the motor Blue even thoght it's the 69 --335 Horse that should be orange
 
I will be putting the same motor (383) and intake in my 69 Valiant but since my car is white with blue interior I'm painting the motor Blue even thoght it's the 69 --335 Horse that should be orange

It's whatever you like. The pie tin on mine is supposed to be red, but I liked the orange better to match the engine. I just changed from stock chrome valve covers to the aluminum ones, I needed the extra clearance and I was getting tired of the way it looked.
 

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I'm pretty sure even clear powder coat will yellow with engine heat. I'm debating on what I want to do as well. I don't want orange that's for sure. It's down to the factory red or an aluminum color. I'm worried the aluminum color will look cheap.
 
I leave mine raw. Does painting them affect the heat dissipation or anything?
 
I painted mine with silver high heat BBQ paint and it came out perfect!
 

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This is the dam hardest sight for a old man to post pictures, I bought the polished one its great after two years of running.
 
Try POR15's Peulclid clear. I've used it on chrome wheels and bumpers and after 13 years it has not yellowed. Though I know engine heat is probably the yellowing culprit for most clears. Peuclid is a one part epoxy and is super durable.
 
Mine is a Polished RPM, I'm guessing they are clear powder coated.
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Does anyone have a picture of their powdercoated clear cast aluminum intake???

Also, does anyone have a picture of their painted SB RPM Airgap intakes? Is it as hard to paint as I think it will be?

Turns out I found an old email saying the guy who built my engine used Rustoleum Chrysler Orange engine enamel. Now I just need to find some...
 
Does anyone have a picture of their powdercoated clear cast aluminum intake???

Also, does anyone have a picture of their painted SB RPM Airgap intakes? Is it as hard to paint as I think it will be?

Turns out I found an old email saying the guy who built my engine used Rustoleum Chrysler Orange engine enamel. Now I just need to find some...

I've got a bunch of restored and powder coated intake manifolds on my website if you need more ideas. The powder color(s) used are in every photo caption.
 
I like refinished parts.

Powdercoating is ideal, but I did everything on the 318 in Rustoleum enamel from a can, reduced 50% with basecoat reducer and japan dry, because the gloss holdout on rattle can engine finishes becomes dull, quickly. It just gets too thin after the heat cures all of the solvents out of the finish and it loses it's surface/ shape/ gloss.
 
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