Peak HP from LA block w/ no problems

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Simple question. Again focus on a STREER driven musclecar. (not a 500hp drag car) Pump gas, 10.5:1 comp. or lower..mild cam and Hughes StageII heads..either 360 stroke crank or the 4.00" crank.
Q- Does anyone have over-heating problems using the stock Chrysler cooling system, during summer ?
...... I have new 3 core 22" now (viscous fan & shroud) with the stock 340 and she runs very cool.. The old 2 core ran right dead center on the gauge, so the new radiator is doing its job. The rad. shop I used has a helluva rep...does tons of street rods & musclemachines. { He was positive this core he got for me would handle anything I could fit under the hood and run on the street.}
I am getting conflicting info. on whether a mild stroker is even streetable, as in useless over 80 deg out. I find that doubtful..I think someone is needlessly trying to f**k with my head or is just a bullsh!t artist. I'll ask the guys HERE first!!
---anyhow, I will not consider an aluminum rad., but will consider the 8 blade HP water pump.., over the stock 6 blade pump.
 
Heat is more HP related as opposed to cu in related. Even if you were at 500hp a 3 core 22" radiator will do just fine. The highest HP numbers are usually above 5000rpm and your cruise RPM will be in the 300hp range so I wouldn't sweat it.


Chuck
 
340mopar said:
Heat is more HP related as opposed to cu in related. Even if you were at 500hp a 3 core 22" radiator will do just fine. The highest HP numbers are usually above 5000rpm and your cruise RPM will be in the 300hp range so I wouldn't sweat it.


Chuck
Click to expand...
Thanks Chuck. I figured that would be the case. I wasnt sure if the extra cylinder pressure or piston speed would contribute.
 
Granted the bigger bore sizes and added piston movement because of the stroke will add some friction but it is small compared to the combustion process which is were the real heat lies. Synthetic oils can help you in the friction department.


Chuck
 
The cooling system is only as good as it is. If you have a 3 core 22" radiator, and no air moves thru it, it wont do. If you have an engine with 1/2 it's colling jackets still full of casting sand, it wont run cool running 3 of those radiators. Engines are air pumps. Heat is energy that is lost from the power pushing on the piston top. So, technically, the more efficient the parts are at capturing as much of the the energy, you have little left for the cooling system to absorb, transport, and then dissipate thru the radiator. Think of the radiator in say a 454 CHevy truck, vs a new Vortec V8 in a new truck. The old one is larger. Sometimes twice the cooling fin area. The new engine retains much more of it's heat from combustion, plus sheds more thru the oil system by design. Now, a stroker has all the same surface ares on both the pick up and the drop off parts. So by itself, the cubic inches do nothing to raise the amount of heat it generates. A 500hp 340, anda 500hp 416, will generate the same heat. It's up to the parts selection and setup as to whther it puts more into the coolant, or the piston top.
 
Well it appears my questions have been answered! Yahoo. I could not for the life of me see how just going to a stroke 0.27" longer would suddenly make the engine run "so hot, forget taking your car out in the 80's" . The last line of B.S. I was fed was "that stroker kit is gonna run you like $2500 to 3 grand."
Its become clear, someone doent want to see my little Dusters tailights way ahead of their Ford Mustang Cobra. If I could of had just ONE person agree with him, **** I even was baiting someone to agree with him, I would give him credibility for all the crap he saying. Anyhow, thanks fer all the input fellas... This '70 Duster is getting motherf#ck$n stroked..:burnout:
 
LOl.. really Tom, you shouldnt hold back your emotions like that. It's not healthy for you.
 
This is a pic of my 408 that I got from www.blueprintengines.com. The dyno sheet came with the engine. It shows temp & oil too.

p1010002my408new.jpg


p1010004dynosheet.jpg
 
hey 7172 duster,
i've seen you refer to using a stud girdle a couple of times and, since i've only seen them for B/RB blocks, was wondering if you found someone who makes/sells them or did you have to fab one yourself?
-thanks
 
this is just a ??? but I would like to know....do you have to int. bal the cast crank?????or just ext. bal would work?????jsut a thought since it worked on 360 cast crank motors for yours........dont want to be flamed for this just asking???????:toothy7:
 
340mopar said:
Heat is more HP related as opposed to cu in related. Even if you were at 500hp a 3 core 22" radiator will do just fine. The highest HP numbers are usually above 5000rpm and your cruise RPM will be in the 300hp range so I wouldn't sweat it.


Chuck
Click to expand...
A lot of heat is developed by cam profiles uin combination with a stroker kit A long rod motor will dwell more on top of the stroke for a chance of detonation if the cam grind doesnt have enough overlap to bleed off some cylinder pressure.
 
if it helps any, i had a heck of a time with cooling(210-220) and decided to spend the money and have one really DONE, but stock. i have a 22" radiator, 72 square tank, 3 row, hi-efficiency(tubes are 3/8" on center, not 1/2") and dimpled tubes. the dimpled tubes slow the water down and the longer the water is in the radiator, the more it gets cooled. i run on the highway and the city streets at 180* and maybe on a hot day in the valley in traffic i'll hit 190*.
 
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