Pitman arm is hitting tortion bar! Help?

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Sign of hope! Got my new pitman arm and it fits waaaayyy better on the sector shaft! The other one seated farther up on the sector shaft which was putting the pitman arm at a higher level this one seats lower on the sector shaft which would drop the pitman arm down and clear the tortion bar..HOPEFULLY!
 
Sign of hope! Got my new pitman arm and it fits waaaayyy better on the sector shaft! The other one seated farther up on the sector shaft which was putting the pitman arm at a higher level this one seats lower on the sector shaft which would drop the pitman arm down and clear the tortion bar..HOPEFULLY!
Thats great ...but... I don't think it will be enuff especaily after you lower the car to proper ride hight.At best you gain 1/4".However withe the k frame welded and the torsion bar bushing replaced you may be in luck..hopefully.
 
Thats great ...but... I don't think it will be enuff especaily after you lower the car to proper ride hight.At best you gain 1/4".However withe the k frame welded and the torsion bar bushing replaced you may be in luck..hopefully.

A 1/4" in three places equals 3/4" and that can go along ways correcting the problem since the tie rod end and the torsion was most likely less than a 1/4" overlap.
 
A 1/4" in three places equals 3/4" and that can go along ways correcting the problem since the tie rod end and the torsion was most likely less than a 1/4" overlap.

Im placing two shims on the top two bolts of the steering box also. I ran into a little delema though..drivers side tortion bar is tweaked..bent. I have a spare 318 tortion bar im gonna put in its place for now..
 
Im placing two shims on the top two bolts of the steering box also. I ran into a little delema though..drivers side tortion bar is tweaked..bent. I have a spare 318 tortion bar im gonna put in its place for now..

You are one lucky guy. I have seen pictures of them snaping in two when they are bent. Did you look at the numbers on the ends of each torsion bar to see if they might actually be the same?
 
Wow! I have never seen a bent torsion rod; snapped yes, bent, no. Could you please take a picture of it along side a straight edge?

If the torsion bar is in fact bent, check the bar mounts because they could also have been disfigured by the impact.
 
Wow! I have never seen a bent torsion rod; snapped yes, bent, no. Could you please take a picture of it along side a straight edge?

If the torsion bar is in fact bent, check the bar mounts because they could also have been disfigured by the impact.
I think the wreck started all this.The LCA mount and possible "mashing" the bushing bending the torsion bar and still possible a bent k frame(hopefuuly not).I had a torsion bar break on a 72 satellite just going to school at 25 mph,I'm sure it was close to breaking long before that.So to bend one you would have to have either heat at impact or a sudden impact but very hard at the right angle.I would inspect the a frame and mounts while you have the car up.Sadly I believe the PO fixed what they could and passed to rest on to you.
 
I think the wreck started all this.The LCA mount and possible "mashing" the bushing bending the torsion bar and still possible a bent k frame(hopefuuly not).I had a torsion bar break on a 72 satellite just going to school at 25 mph,I'm sure it was close to breaking long before that.So to bend one you would have to have either heat at impact or a sudden impact but very hard at the right angle.I would inspect the a frame and mounts while you have the car up.Sadly I believe the PO fixed what they could and passed to rest on to you.

I must have missed something because I have never seen where the OP mentioned the car getting wrecked. It could be possible the previous owner heated and bent the torsion bar trying to gain more clearance.
 
Thanks, I missed that and I have been on this thread from the start or at least I thought I had, LOL!

You have been trying to help solve this problem since the first post and I am sure the OP is thankful for all your help. Sometimes when there are multiple posts at the same time a few slip past us. I have read through all the posts many times looking for something that may have been missed but I think you all are on the right track and will lead the OP to a successful repair.
~Michael
 
I will have to post a picture of that tortion bar for everyone to see. Now im not sure if the car was wrecked or what happen to it but you can tell the drivers side frame has been welded on in one spot. Yes i did look at the numbers. I actually just took a micrometer and measured my other tortion bars they were .85 and that is a 318 tortion bar if im correct. I have two 318 tortion bars and 2 slant 6 tortion bars. Do you guys think the 318 one will work for now or should i order a 340 one immediateley?
 
You have been trying to help solve this problem since the first post and I am sure the OP is thankful for all your help. Sometimes when there are multiple posts at the same time a few slip past us. I have read through all the posts many times looking for something that may have been missed but I think you all are on the right track and will lead the OP to a successful repair.
~Michael

Yes oklahoma has been in this since the beginning and im very thankful. Along with everyone else that has helped me through this. Just hoping this is the answer and its fixed :/. I will find out tonight when i put it all back together and button everything up and get some load on it.
 
I will have to post a picture of that tortion bar for everyone to see. Now im not sure if the car was wrecked or what happen to it but you can tell the drivers side frame has been welded on in one spot. Yes i did look at the numbers. I actually just took a micrometer and measured my other tortion bars they were .85 and that is a 318 tortion bar if im correct. I have two 318 tortion bars and 2 slant 6 tortion bars. Do you guys think the 318 one will work for now or should i order a 340 one immediateley?

Personally I would use the two 318 torsion bars you have. That way if you still have issues you wont waste a 340 torsion bar in the process to fix the issues. What is the original torsion bar number stamped on the end and what is the 318 torsion bar stamped? I will see if I can locate the one you need on the salvage circut that would be close to you. I will be going out to the salvage yard and I can look up everything that is currently out there with nothing blocked on their computer. What we can look up doesn't contain all the parts that are out there because many companies don't release their inventory on line. Of course they are a lot of parts that aren't on the circut either.
 
Personally I would use the two 318 torsion bars you have. That way if you still have issues you wont waste a 340 torsion bar in the process to fix the issues. What is the original torsion bar number stamped on the end and what is the 318 torsion bar stamped? I will see if I can locate the one you need on the salvage circut that would be close to you. I will be going out to the salvage yard and I can look up everything that is currently out there with nothing blocked on their computer. What we can look up doesn't contain all the parts that are out there because many companies don't release their inventory on line. Of course they are a lot of parts that aren't on the circut either.

The one i had laying around i think is a 318 one. The number with the L for left side is: 891, the other number is i think 351. The supposebly 340 torsion bar that is in my car, the number is: 892 other number is 193?? Im not sure on these theyre hard to read.
 
I found this on the net but I can't say if it is accurate.
MOPAR A-BODY T-BAR
RATES AND APPLICATIONS
-------Wheel
--OD----Rate--------Application(s)
0.810" 82 Lb/In SLANT 6/DRAG RACING
0.870" 109 Lb/In SMALL BLOCK V8/STREET/DRAG RACING
0.890" 120 Lb/In BIG BLOCK/STREET/DRAG RACING
0.920" 137 Lb/In PERFORMANCE STREET
0.990" 184 Lb/In PERFORMANCE STREET/SOLO/TRACK DAY
1.040" 224 Lb/In PERFORMANCE STREET/SOLO/TRACK DAY/ROAD RACING
1.090" 270 Lb/In SOLO/TRACK DAY/ROAD RACING/OVAL TRACK
1.120" 305 Lb/In SOLO/TRACK DAY/ROAD RACING/OVAL TRACK
1.140" 323 Lb/In SOLO/HD-ROAD RACING/OVAL TRACK
1.180" 380 Lb/In SOLO/HD-ROAD RACING/OVAL TRACK
1.200" 396 Lb/In HD-SOLO/HD-ROAD RACING/HD-OVAL TRACK
1.240" 452 Lb/In HD-SOLO/HD-ROAD RACING/HD-OVAL TRACK
 
Here is a list of the different torsion bars. These are all for a-bodies only. Included are the mopar performance part numbers (p-part numbers) and where applicable, the OE part # (even ending number is right side--odd is left side---ex. 2535888 is right, 2535889 is left)
  • .810" 90#/in p5249148 drag bars
  • .830" 100#/in (2535888-9) slant six bars
  • .850" 110#/in (2535890-1) slant six w/ air--318 w/o air )
  • .870" 120#/in p5249149 (2535892-3) 318 w/ air--340 std bars
  • .890" 130#/in p5249150 383 std bars
  • .920" 150#/in p5249151 h/d handling
  • .990" 200#/in p5249152 solo/road race
  • 1.040" 250#/in p5249153 h/d solo road race-oval track
  • 1.090" 300"/in p5249154 oval track 1/4 mi--optional 1/2 mi
  • 1.140" 300#/in p5249155 oval track 1/4 and 1/2 mile
 
The one i had laying around i think is a 318 one. The number with the L for left side is: 891, the other number is i think 351. The supposebly 340 torsion bar that is in my car, the number is: 892 other number is 193?? Im not sure on these theyre hard to read.

There is another problem, 892 is for the passenger side of the car. Drivers should be the 891.
 
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