Pitman arm is hitting tortion bar! Help?

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Im real glad you were able to figure it out with Fabo's help. These guys are GREAT helpfull folks if you give em a chance.

Happy motoring!:burnout:
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-78500/
Im about two clicks away from ordering these headers for my car. Do you guys think they will slip right in with everything else already installed??

Go back through this thread and save yourself some money on the identical ones that cost $277.32. Same part number, brand and free shipping.

I think from reading the threads those headers are a wise choice.
 
I want next day though..i want em tomorrow.
If you order them tonight they won't ship until tomorrow anyway.

Summit does has a price match guarantee.

Beat-a-Price Guarantee:


We're confident our prices are the lowest. We're so confident, we offer the Beat-a-Price guarantee: We’ll beat any advertised price on an in-stock product, with proof of the advertised price, if the part is in stock at the advertised location. Advertised price includes shipping/handling/any other “to the door” costs. Call 1-800-230-3030 and speak with a salesperson to help complete your order. This policy does not apply to typographical errors, products in an online auction, refurbished or used products from a second-hand seller, or a competitor’s price that results from a price match. If the product meets the above criteria, the competitor's price will be beat. Guaranteed!
 
I went to the hooker header website and either they never made a header for the duster our they don't sale any now all I could find was these which may be owned by hooker which looks to be owned by holly.These are flow tech.
http://www.holley.com/13500FLT.asp
They are made for your car.
 
I went to the hooker header website and either they never made a header for the duster our they don't sale any now all I could find was these which may be owned by hooker which looks to be owned by holly.These are flow tech.
http://www.holley.com/13500FLT.asp
They are made for your car.

Read this thread and examine the pictures with the HED-78500 installed on members cars WITH power steering. Fully read the entire thread and closely examine the pictures and tell us why they don't fit. Just because the sheet metal on the outside of the car looks different doesn't mean the innerstructure is much different if any.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=117019
 
Read this thread and examine the pictures with the HED-78500 installed on members cars WITH power steering. Fully read the entire thread and closely examine the pictures and tell us why they don't fit. Just because the sheet metal on the outside of the car looks different doesn't mean the innerstructure is much different if any.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=117019
I think they will fit as long as everything is straight and true because it's real tight on the power steering.He needs to be there and be very vocal at the pipe shop about how they need to be tucked away as much as possible.If he's running 2" pipes it may clear above the steering.The reason I posted the above is because I went to the hooker site to see what he may have already and by the looks of the site they never made hooker headers for a duster of any year.The only set I could find was the flow techs.So the ones on his car are NOT for a 73 duster which everyone already knew that.There must be something different about dusters as all the other a-bodies have headers made for them.When I seen the hedmans I wondered about the outlet location and that is an issue.The flow techs were an alternative option if he wanted headers designed for his car specificly at a lower price.I say the hedmans should fit but since the duster is different enuff for hooker to not make headers for them and his problems with his car its a guessing game at this point.I believe the worst case would be his pipe coming off the hedman would hang down 2" but that is better than what he had before.73moparman try to get them to keep the pipe above the steering,if you can you will be in good shape.Maybe someone will post if they have the hedman or the flow techs on a 73 duster and how low they are and any clearence issues.BTW by the looks of the pictures in that post it may be a good idea to get a short starter as the pipes look very close(for heat reasons),as stated off a 94 dakota.
 
UPDATE- Car is at the alignment shop right now getting all straightened out and stuff...hopefully it drives better :/. Then first thing next year getting the exhaust done!
 
i just read every word of this thread, congrats to OP and all you guys for the great support.
a quick question for all of you since my friend is having some pitman arm issues, are the manual and power steering arms different? if not, he's probably got a pitman from a bad batch.
his car is a 69 valiant with a 74 v8 k-frame and corresponding parts, but he's running a manual box that was on his old /six k-frame.
thanks- pauly

edit: found the information i needed, thanks!
 
Looks like you got it all sorted out. You should be proud of yourself for not giving up. A lot of people would have.
 
Yes,well done! Im going uphill all the time,so a victory like this is always sweeter.
 
Good you got it figured out , the Parts available today aren't being made as accurate as they were in the past as witnessed by the OP having to try 3 different pitman arms till he got one that cleared .
 
I haven't read the whole thread , I did find a bunch of incorrect ASSumptions in the first few pages though about different year K frames and some other silly nonsense .

Good you got it figured out , the Parts available today aren't being made as accurate as they were in the past as witnessed by the OP having to try 3 different pitman arms till he got one that cleared .

Feel free to educate us. Maybe you know something we don't. With your vast knowledge, you can maybe help someone when they have a problem instead of criticizing others. Why did you even bother to post on this thread unless you are going to educate us? I can only think of one other reason and you put the words in caps in your post.

Do you think that maybe the broken K-frame had anything to do with the problem? Maybe you should read the whole thread.
 
Feel free to educate us. Maybe you know something we don't. With your vast knowledge, you can maybe help someone when they have a problem instead of criticizing others. Why did you even bother to post on this thread unless you are going to educate us? I can only think of one other reason and you put the words in caps in your post.

Do you think that maybe the broken K-frame had anything to do with the problem? Maybe you should read the whole thread.


Do you or anyone else REALLY want someone with only 500 posts and no thank yous to do something like that ?

edit ... read a few more pages , I see that some of the glaring info was corrected , Steve came thru on this for the OP big time.

There seems to be a little confusion on how a torsion bar works and what happens when the adjustment bolt is tightened though.

I'm not sure how much the broken K frame actually moved the LCA (judging by the picture he added , it maybe moved .200 ???) and if it was moved up,down, left or right when the T bar was tightened, but there were so many things that this guy was told to do and change that had nothing to do with why it was happening.

The pass thru headers , that is the way they are, been like that forever and they are made to fit both styles of K frames , a worn engine mount can cause an issue with the steering hitting them and as he found out a few whacks with the hammer gave him the needed clearance .
 
Do you or anyone else REALLY want someone with only 500 posts and no thank yous to do something like that ?

sure the broken K frame had something to do with it , but there were so many things that this guy was told to do and change that had nothing to do with why it was happening.

Heck YES, we want anyone that has good information to chime in if that can offer a solution or give input that is important. We all started with post 1 and went from there. There are many with very low post counts that only chime in when they have something important to contribute but otherwise they choose to just read the posts. Post count means absolutely nothing but being a stand up contributor is means a lot.

You are the one that that said
I haven't read the whole thread , I did find a bunch of incorrect ASSumptions in the first few pages though about different year K frames and some other silly nonsense .

I would like you to educate us on the K-frame as you mentioned. We are always open to learning things we don't know and that knowledge shared by others when combined is what makes this site GREAT. You deleted that out of your original post.

As far as what was suggested, those that were trying to help him didn't have the car in front of them to see. We had to trust his eyes and the pictures he took. Step by step there were three things found that was part of the problem. Is every idea correct? No! If anyone of use could look at the first post everytime and say this is what is wrong with your car it would be fantastic.

The biggest problem with help threads is "Drive Bys" that post something without reading the entire thread.
 
Someone was blaming his problem on having a 67 K frame , totally bogus information . The main difference with the 67 K is the idler arm mount , that does nothing to cause his problem. I remember seeing an article in a mopar mag where the author put the later idler arm on a 67 and added a plate to the top to hold the idler stable.

I put a 73 up Box in a 72 Duster wit ha small block , used the 73 centerlink when I discovered I had to change the pitman arm for the new box , this was back when I was 18 ... about 1981 , used the 72 tie rods assemblies , it was a small block with black jack headers that had been bottomed out so many times I lost count , nothing hit anywhere .

The idler on my 69 383 GTS hits the oil pan and the block , they don't make the correct idler for it so I may switch to a later manual box to flip the stud down so I have more clearance , but I'm not sure if the centerlink is going to clear the pan that way. As it is the centerlink is higher on the idler side and is rubbing on the pan wearing a groove in it , the idler was changed once before I bought the car , car has 56k original miles . This has nothing to do with the subject but just showing that things aren't always made correctly either.
 
Someone was blaming his problem on having a 67 K frame , totally bogus information . The main difference with the 67 K is the idler arm mount , that does nothing to cause his problem. I remember seeing an article in a mopar mag where the author put the later idler arm on a 67 and added a plate to the top to hold the idler stable.

I put a 73 up Box in a 72 Duster wit ha small block , used the 73 centerlink when I discovered I had to change the pitman arm for the new box , this was back when I was 18 ... about 1981 , used the 72 tie rods assemblies , it was a small block with black jack headers that had been bottomed out so many times I lost count , nothing hit anywhere .

The idler on my 69 383 GTS hits the oil pan and the block , they don't make the correct idler for it so I may switch to a later manual box to flip the stud down so I have more clearance , but I'm not sure if the centerlink is going to clear the pan that way. As it is the centerlink is higher on the idler side and is rubbing on the pan wearing a groove in it , the idler was changed once before I bought the car , car has 56k original miles . This has nothing to do with the subject but just showing that things aren't always made correctly either.

At the time the 67 K-Frame was mentioned no one but the OP could see it. If you had bothered to read the entire thread you wouldn't needed to even mention the article you read because that information was contained in this thread also. OP stated he had no idea what K-Frame is in the car or if it was even a V8 K-Frame.
Okay. It previously was a slant six car. Is there any way you can tell if it is a v-8 or a slant six K frame. I bought a brand new pitman arm for a 1973 Duster and it was exactly the same as mine so i know thats not it..

When he started posting pictures we could see what he was working with but until that point no one could look at their computer and see what he was looking at. Was it possible that a previous owner installed a 67 K-Frame? Yes, so it was a valid question at the time.
Power steering..what do you mean what motor mounts?
It was much later in the thread when he finally posted a picture of the K-Frame that included enough of the motor mount to tell it was a 73 to 76 K-Frame.

This young gun is 20 years old, had no experience and was smart enough to ask for help. Others were trying to think of possibilities so the thread changed over time as new information came out. Again if you had read the entire thread before slaming the members that were working with him you would have known that.


I personally admire this young gun a whole lot due to the fact that he worked on this car and fixed it.
 
JohnRR,
I am going to add this and then I have meetings for the rest of the evening.

I am sorry that I came down on you. It is easy to see a pile of lumber laying on the ground when you drive by. It is amazing when you drive by later to see a house built and a family living in it. You have no idea of what it took to get it built. By not reading the full thread and posting your begining post that is exactly what you did since you saw the begining and the end but missed the middle.
I would like to encourage you to read the information on the thread before posting something like you did. I am refering to threads that have important information and not "Word Association" type threads.
 
Hey everyone sorry I haven't been on here in a while..been busy working. I put the car away for the winter. First thing next year I'm going to get the exhaust built from the new headers to the original exhaust. I just wanna say thank you to FABO and everyone on here that helped me through this situation. I really appreciate it :D
 
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