Please help with cam selection

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The pistons are sealed power hyp. 405cp., @rumblefish360 I wanted to get the motor sorted out first it has the 3.23 gears in it because it was a good deal at the time and I needed it to be a roller to move around , however the 3.91’s will be going in once it moves under it’s own power and I’ve read some of your posts on here and enjoy them and absorb the knowledge I have all the usual mopar books but all the set ups they advise are antiquated cams if 1.6 rockers would be a better set up then so be it.
 
seventyswinger said:
The pistons are sealed power hyp. 405cp., @rumblefish360
I have all the usual mopar books but all the set ups they advise are antiquated cams if 1.6 rockers would be a better set up the so be it.
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Antiquated? Hummmm, the grinds maybe old but they still work. So, IMO, antiquated doesn’t quite fit. Old? Yes.

But what the book is showing you now is the parts used to do the job but you’ll have to make modern part choices. Here is a good few examples.

MP says to figure can duration @ .050 it is the advertised duration multiplied by .850. Your choice of a more modern cam now has a lead in duration to look for.

I’d advise in what ever duration you use, get as much lift as the head can handle. I’d look at 108 C lines. On most of the MP cams, I’d run the 1.6 to quicken the action on the rocker/valve opening rate. It’s not always needed. It’s not a must. Lift has a direct impact on HP, if your head support the addition lift.

Example #2;
MP suggested to use there 6 pack intake set up for best results in those bracket tips there to perform in. There is one big problem with that idea, that’s expense.
A RPM-AG is what you would substitute and a carb to fit.
You have to remember that the 6 pack was the best and ultimate dual plane intake manifold ever available.

Even when they suggested to use there single plane, I’d still take a hard look at the dual plane and double check the cars weight. If the car was very light, it would be the single plane.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
On the money. Same with the carburetor needing almost no changes. Up the compression a point or 2 and see what happens...and what rpm did it peak?
What lsa?
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The chambers are 4cc's smaller. Peaked at 5900 vs. 5800 before. LSA is 112.
 
B3RE said:
Here is a similar build to mull over.

Guess!
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Oh man! I remember that thread. I thought it was a good one showing excellent results with a small cam.

My wife’s engine is very similar and no one believes me when I say 380/390 hp. Educated guesstimate of course.
Perhaps I should up the anti since the new heads are ported? LMAO!!!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Antiquated? Hummmm, the grinds maybe old but they still work. So, IMO, antiquated doesn’t quite fit. Old? Yes.

But what the book is showing you now is the parts used to do the job but you’ll have to make modern part choices. Here is a good few examples.

MP says to figure can duration @ .050 it is the advertised duration multiplied by .850. Your choice of a more modern cam now has a lead in duration to look for.

I’d advise in what ever duration you use, get as much lift as the head can handle. I’d look at 108 C lines. On most of the MP cams, I’d run the 1.6 to quicken the action on the rocker/valve opening rate. It’s not always needed. It’s not a must. Lift has a direct impact on HP, if your head support the addition lift.

Example #2;
MP suggested to use there 6 pack intake set up for best results in those bracket tips there to perform in. There is one big problem with that idea, that’s expense.
A RPM-AG is what you would substitute and a carb to fit.
You have to remember that the 6 pack was the best and ultimate dual plane intake manifold ever available.

Even when they suggested to use there single plane, I’d still take a hard look at the dual plane and double check the cars weight. If the car was very light, it would be the single plane.
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thank you sir I will look at the Larry sheapherd book again and look over the six pack set up that may work for me and substitute it for air gap and 750 dp. Carb.
 
seventyswinger said:
thank you sir I will look at the Larry sheapherd book again and look over the six pack set up that may work for me and substitute it for air gap and 750 dp. Carb.
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Your welcome Sir! That rpm intake is IMO the most bad *** dual plane intake out today. It should be good enough to carry you to the low 11’s. Port match it as deep as you can go.
 
1.6 roller rockers require a B3 kit to work properly
rocker cost + b3 kit not worth the $$$
you can do it with a solid cam and iron rockers , edm lifters, light retainers
but not with old school grinds
even with stock rockers and a hyd cam for .525 lifts
grind your block and use 3/8 pushrods which will make a difference
 
seventyswinger said:
Nothing magical just wanted a decent driver that’s not a dedicated race car. I think those number for me are realistic with the parts and budget I had in mind? I’m always open to opinions and suggestions I normally don’t post much on here but do value the knowledge of the people on this site , I live in south Florida so I get to also enjoy car shows year round.
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Just a question first. Why do you think a 3500 converter and 3.23 gears need to be in the same car? Either you should go lower stall or numerically higher gear. THEN worry about what camshaft. JMO.
 
hughes springs par number and details
rev range to 5 k mentioned above does not compute with 3500 stall speed computer
that howards cam may be too big for your springs and rev range and gears and weight
also you need to factor in headers and exhaust
dbl check howards spring requirements against your hughes springs
check keeper/ retainer to stem seal clerarance with that lift
Work with Mike Jones on a .904 solid if he has one that he says will work for your build
"go one size smaller on the cam -not the one on the bottom of the page' works
 
My advice is to gather all your info including your intentions for the car and call Racer Brown. I went thru this with my build and he is well worth the trouble to consult.
 
FWIW.... your pistons sit about .050" in the hole with a stock deck... so not zero-decked (unless you had the block decked). If that is correct then your static CR is going to be in the 9.0 range with the 63 cc chambers (as said in post #24), so no worries over needing high octane fuel.

If you are going to do mostly cruising, then the game changes to a smaller cam than many that have been suggested. For example, the cam suggested in post #3 will drop the dynamic CR to 6.7, which is like a stock 318. Not gonna be spunky at all in everyday cruising in the lower RPM ranges.

I'd be heading to something like RF posted in post #24 (probably a bit smaller on the cam is my preference), but looking for either 1.6 rockers or a faster ramp cam like some of the Howards cams. My son's 340 has the OP's heads, a 10:1 static CR, 3.55's, 2200 stall, conservative 218 @.050" cam, with 1.6 rockers to boost the lift to duration ratio and keep the lower RPM torque up, with an LSA at 112 to help mileage and keep the torque better down low. It is an engine set up for amuch wider RPM range, for flexible use.

The larger heads help the higher RPM's and the smaller cam keeps the low RPM end strong. Post #20 is pointing to this matter.... get the breathing in there, then let the cam and compression set the lower RPM range. Big breathing does not mean a dead low RPM range. IMHO people get too concerned over on velocity and port volume; a wide RPM range engine for flexible use is a lot more than focusing on the main torque band.
 
nm9stheham said:
OBTW.... you can always change the cam!
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Post 24???
Maybe lost 17 or 19?
Thanks for the mention. If it was the 230@050, that would be max size for this. My wife’s Hyd. roller @ 224@050 is probably more in line.
 
Do figure that compression pretty exactly b4 calling anyone
What I was hinting about about that howard -they are bigger than they look due to the faster ramps for their .904 (note 15) series
I like high ratio rockers but budget wise unless you are building an "engine masters" or other class build they are not worth the money- there are better things to spend the money on- you can do it with the cam figure on the B3 kit plus the rollers- add it up
things I'd do first
light retainers
better keepers
conversion guides and light valves
beehive valve springs
blend the bowls or more
modern valve job
3/8 pushrods and grind the block
cup adjusters for the iron rockers
 
rumblefish360 said:
Post 24???
Maybe lost 17 or 19?
Thanks for the mention. If it was the 230@050, that would be max size for this. My wife’s Hyd. roller @ 224@050 is probably more in line.
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I guess I am slow to catch on.... LOL

The other thing that impacts this is that the idea of 'cruising' and 'street' is different for different folks. If the idea is bursts of hard acceleration between stop lights in a straight line and the feel of being pressed hard into the seat, then something more aggressive in the cam and TC stall and gearing is probably called for. That is the hard part of advising folks on these matters: you gotta get inside their heads and understand what they truly want.

The OP is from the Miami area.... flat and lots of straight boulevards, so that is not at all like the mountains that I drive in, which is a different animal for hard driving. So my formula might not be the best for what he wants. Maybe the OP can chime in and say a bit more of what he likes in driving....
 
nm9stheham said:
I guess I am slow to catch on.... LOL

The other thing that impacts this is that the idea of 'cruising' and 'street' is different for different folks. If the idea is bursts of hard acceleration between stop lights in a straight line and the feel of being pressed hard into the seat, then something more aggressive in the cam and TC stall and gearing is probably called for. That is the hard part of advising folks on these matters: you gotta get inside their heads and understand what they truly want.

The OP is from the Miami area.... flat and lots of straight boulevards, so that is not at all like the mountains that I drive in, which is a different animal for hard driving. So my formula might not be the best for what he wants. Maybe the OP can chime in and say a bit more of what he likes in driving....
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You hit the nail on the head! Everyone has a different idea what is best. THey all work but work differently for different situations. No magic bullet cam.
 
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