Post pics of your suspension upgades
- Thread starter Sharko
- Start date
-
Nuthin' special
New leaf springs and anti sway bar in the rear with poly bushings
340 torsion bars and new anti sway bar in the front with poly bushings
New leaf springs and anti sway bar in the rear with poly bushings
340 torsion bars and new anti sway bar in the front with poly bushings
autoxcuda
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- Apr 6, 2007
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SUSPENSION
•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 300 Lb./ft wheel rate. Livable, stiff. (stock .87" 109 Lb./ft),
•REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•73-76 K-member: Reinforced, all joints rewelded, added bracing especially around steering gear
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow. w/TVS kit
•REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis hollow and adjustable. w/TVS kit
•SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstein. w/TVS kit
•POLYGRAPHITE: Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•UPPER A-ARM: Hotchkis tubular with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•STRUT ROD: Hotchkis with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•LOWER CONTROL ARM: 73_76 style w/factory sway bars. Added reinforcement straps and rear adjuster clearance tightened.
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•TIE ROD ASSY: Hotchkis tubular aluminum with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.
•Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering .
ALIGNMENT
•Toe: 1/16" toe in
•Caster: 5.9 deg. positive
•Camber: 1.5 deg. negative
BODY
•SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis. w/TVS kit
•WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale
•COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies.
•Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, front air dam, more aluminum drivetrain parts, fiberglass hood
BRAKES
•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern
•Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts
WHEELS
•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)
Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around
INTERIOR
•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side
•Future plans: I have one new Scat Pro seat I got for $50 at the swap meet. Would like to find it a mate.
•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 300 Lb./ft wheel rate. Livable, stiff. (stock .87" 109 Lb./ft),
•REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•73-76 K-member: Reinforced, all joints rewelded, added bracing especially around steering gear
•FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow. w/TVS kit
•REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis hollow and adjustable. w/TVS kit
•SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstein. w/TVS kit
•POLYGRAPHITE: Hotchkis w/TVS kit
•UPPER A-ARM: Hotchkis tubular with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•STRUT ROD: Hotchkis with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•LOWER CONTROL ARM: 73_76 style w/factory sway bars. Added reinforcement straps and rear adjuster clearance tightened.
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•TIE ROD ASSY: Hotchkis tubular aluminum with heim joints. w/TVS kit
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.
•Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering .
ALIGNMENT
•Toe: 1/16" toe in
•Caster: 5.9 deg. positive
•Camber: 1.5 deg. negative
BODY
•SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis. w/TVS kit
•WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale
•COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies.
•Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, front air dam, more aluminum drivetrain parts, fiberglass hood
BRAKES
•PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score)
•DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks
•BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement
•BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4
•MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length.
•PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve
•DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling
•REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern
•Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts
WHEELS
•15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued)
Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around
INTERIOR
•STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score)
•SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side
•Future plans: I have one new Scat Pro seat I got for $50 at the swap meet. Would like to find it a mate.
Now that's an upgrade! :thumbup::thumbup:
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Here,s mine I,m in the middle of doing.
Boxed in my K-member
RMS tubular UCA and hymed struts
QA-1 12-way adjustable shocks
LCA stiffening plates
New LCA bushings
New tie-rods and alumi. sleeves.
Shiney paint LOL
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 058.jpg
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 068.jpg
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 066.jpg
Boxed in my K-member
RMS tubular UCA and hymed struts
QA-1 12-way adjustable shocks
LCA stiffening plates
New LCA bushings
New tie-rods and alumi. sleeves.
Shiney paint LOL
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 058.jpg
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 068.jpg
View attachment 66 Dart project Nov2010 066.jpg
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
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fourspeed
Well-Known Member
My home-brewed anti-sway bar links. This was my 2nd attempt, and the pic was taken while I was still cutting and fitting.
RMS tubular strut rods
Also have RMS UCA's, but no pictures. T-bars are .890 Mopar Performance bars. Aligned to spec, except caster, which is at 6 degrees.
Rear suspension has 002/003 SS springs that are relocated using the MP kit and a pair of rear shocks from Mancini. Rear wheels have 1/2" toe-in. Yeah, the axle housing is bent...
RMS tubular strut rods
Also have RMS UCA's, but no pictures. T-bars are .890 Mopar Performance bars. Aligned to spec, except caster, which is at 6 degrees.
Rear suspension has 002/003 SS springs that are relocated using the MP kit and a pair of rear shocks from Mancini. Rear wheels have 1/2" toe-in. Yeah, the axle housing is bent...
OK, Steve, you really need to do something about them tailpipes. They are bringing down all that pretty suspension. How ya diggin the Hotchkiss stuff now that you've had it awhile?
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 8,835
- Reaction score
- 3,784
The Hotchkis system just takes the car to the next level. It was good before. People who drove or rode in it were always impressed/shocked that an old Mopar could do that. But it's just that much more precise, accurate, and fast now. And I think it matches the capability the new 1.14" T-bars. It just grips and grips.
My tires are limiting me. I need newer and better tires. They are 8 years old and hard.
I think those tailpipes are OE 1968 issue. The headpipe is. I have a brand new complete TTI 2 1/2" with X-pipe exhaust system waiting to be installed when I finish this...
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2007
- Messages
- 8,835
- Reaction score
- 3,784
My K-members is the 73-76 spool mount style that IMHO has better steering box support. But I still boxed, added steel, and rewelded the steering area. The two halves of the K-member that are spot welded together, I had fully welded.
I also added some 1" strap steel to the lower control arms (LCA). The one under the sway bar mount supports the much larger than stock sway bars. The strap at the back tightens the looseness caused from the halves of the LCA's slightly bending apart or wearing over time. Some are worse than others. The strap near the lower ball joint end IMHO is unnecessary and I would not add it again.
I also added some 1" strap steel to the lower control arms (LCA). The one under the sway bar mount supports the much larger than stock sway bars. The strap at the back tightens the looseness caused from the halves of the LCA's slightly bending apart or wearing over time. Some are worse than others. The strap near the lower ball joint end IMHO is unnecessary and I would not add it again.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
It sure beats MOLD!Hardie har..har.:bootysha:
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