purple camshaft

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Snake

Mopar Nut
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Ok I am not going the route of geting different push rods or adjustable rockers for my Comp cam that I have in here now.I have pick p# 4452992 its 280 dur 474 lft .its the purple camshaft.I called a mopar tech number and he says as long as there has been no milling of the heads and so on this will work with stock push rods and rocker arms.the base circle is ground like mother mopar did back in the day.Any one got this cam and if so how do you like it.after i pull the Comp out i will be selling it,you want to go through all the measureing go for it.
 
Make sure it's degreed properly, and I'd recommend you advance it 4° from the recommended centerline.
 
the last cam i did not degree it even the instructions said it is ok if not done.would be best tho but i did not.you have no idea how had it is to get someone to come to you garage to do such a thing around thease parts.I could get it degreed if the motor was out and at at shop.
 
The 280/474 is the Hemi grind. Djvcuda runs one in his car with stock valvetrain parts. He has been mid 12's with it. I had one in a 318 years ago and used all stock parts with it
 
What comp cam did ya have? I've had a few over the years and didn't have to run anything other then stock push rods and rockers
 
That purple shaft cam is an old design, there are cams out there that are much better. The Comp Extreme Energy series, the Lunati VooDoo series or one of Hughes cams. These newer fast ramp lobe designs will give you more low end without sacrificing top end.

Regardless of which cam you go with if you are not using adjustable rockers I would recommend investing $20 in a couple of checking pushrods and find the length you actually need to get 0.040" to 0.050" of preload.

As a cam gains lift the base circle gets smaller regardless of who makes the cam. Remember the lobe on the cam has to fit in side the diameter of the cam bearing journal or you wouldn't be able to install the cam.

Also, it would be less costly to get the right length pushrods than to invest in a new cam and lifters to avoid purchasing new pushrods.
 
I have no idea how to find out what preload I need or the right push rod.You guys make it sound simple but for me it is not sorry .I guess I should just pack in the mopar and go dare i say it chevey never had this kind of problim befor puting in a bump stick.Now i am getting PISSED.
 
Snake, Sorry you're getting so hot about it...
The MP cams are ok, just older. Which is not a big deal. But... they use the low bidder and teh quality control sucks. The last MP cam I used (and this made itt he last one) needed 8° of adjustment just to get it to where MP said to run it... And I needed to go 2° more than that. Comps I have yet to find one off more than 2°. MPs are not fast rate, they are not anything fancy. Just 70's tech which is why the lifters and everything "should" work. My guess is the lifter preload will not be a problem even without checking because the lifters are stock parts and the ramps are slow. Nothing fancy. The fact is, for under $100 you can get a degree wheel and dial indicator, or for a little more get a case and a video to go along with it and do it yourself. BTW, CHevy and Ford also have the same issues with tick, preload, cam degreeing.

Just between you and I, checking preload is easier and cheaper overall, including the new pushrods if needed, than replacing a cam in a car.
 
I put that cam in my engine. the spec sheet didn't have an installed center line listed so I put it in straight up, but degree-ed it in. it was only off one half of a degree, 109.5* to the 110* install. BUT!! buried in the Mopar Perfomance book is a chart that shows that that cam is supposed to be installed at 106*. Also that cam likes a lot of initial timing, I am running 20* initial. HTH
 
Ok guys pick one for me were hopefully I will not have to get different push rods or rockers.That 280-480 comp cam will go in my 360 next year.But for next spring i will use the 318 thats in it now.Stock 318, stock heads,headers 600 holley,single plane intake.355 gear 3000 stall.The gear and stall will be in next year.what have you got?
 
Snake not trying to up set you but any time you deviate from stock for one part you are likely going to need to change other parts to match doesn't make any differnce what brand it is.

As far as what cam to use you need to decide how you plan to use the car. The purple shaft cam you mentioned is going to kill off a lot of the low end power in the 318 in exchange for more high rpm power.

Are you going to use the car as a cruiser or are looking for maximum straight line acceleration. You need to pick parts that work together.
 
The 318 will be a cruiser, the 360 i plan on a few trips down the track,I do however want a little more power out of my 318.
 
i run the 480 mp p4452992 i like it

its in a stock 360 with a t-ram on top and pulls great 1.74 60' times and 12.56 is my best et and 108 is my best mph - with 3.23's

i also get 14-16 mpg cruising at 75 mph down the highway with it - no complaints here..

I cleaned up the deck and head, but the replacement gasket made up for the cuts, and run stock pushrods and rockers.
 
A note to be mentioned on the MoPar Purple cams is that the rate is calculated but advertised duration multiplied by .850 for the ratere rate of .050.

This rate is a quicker rate of rise/quicker ramp rate than the Comp Extreme series but not there extreme hi lift series and is the series cam if your looking to get alot out of your cam, not the regular XE cam.

Compare both of the Comp cams Xe series and there XE hi-lift series and then match them up against the Lunati and huges cams.

Now you know that the regular comp XE series cam is a quick cam in opening up valves, but not the one everybuddy keeps ranting and raveing about. OR THINKS THEY HAVE!

Read! Know your cams! Visit cam company web sites and read so you know the facts.

THANK YOU!

Off my soap box now.....
 
I used that cam in a very mildly rebuilt 360 some years ago. .030 over, stock trw forged replacement pistons, nothing special. Actual compression might have been 9:1, and that might have been optimistic.
In the 360, it only pulled about 9 inches of vacuum, until I added a set of Rhoads bleed down lifters to it, which got me up to about 14-15 inches.
After that, there were no problems with the power brakes, or with the 2400 rpm stock type torque converter.
I think if you put that in the smaller 318, you stand a good chance of having even less power than you do now. I don't think the stock 318 valve springs are really going to be up the demands this cam will put on it, but who knows?
The proper springs for it still only cost $50-75, and aren't that hard to add.
You would also be wise to ditch the stock, plastic coated timing chain for a 340 type double roller, or at least an all steel single tooth. The plastic teeth will probably break off once you start beating on it (assuming it's the original timing chain and gears) and wind up in the oil pickup, or worse, the pump itself.
You don't want to know how I found out...!
With a stock type 1800-2200 (typical) OEM 318 torque converter, it's probably not going to want to idle well in gear, or have much in the way of low rpm performance.
If you had the 3000 stall and/or the gears in it, then it would do just fine.
Hope this helps,
Alan627b
 
with convertor and gear THE 474 IS PERFECT.
EVERYBODY TALKS ABOUT THESE SMALL CHANGES LIKE ITS A BIG.
YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT WHAT YOU HAVE.
3000 STALL? \\ GEAR ? WHAT GEAR
I RAN MY 67 CORONET WITH A 360CI WITH 9 TO1 \\.474 CAM \\ 2300 STALL CONVERTOR AND 2.94 GEARS WITH 235\75\R15 PEP BOYS TIRES.
JUST TRYING TO SHOW YOU HOW A CAR WITH NO GEAR AND NO CONVERTOR RUNS WITH A .474 CAM 14.50 FIRST RUN \\ TUNED 14.00 TO 13.86 FASTEST
MY POINT > 3720 WEIGHT { .474 CAM HAS A TON OF LOW END TORQUE } BUT IT STARTS AROUND 3000 RPMS
YOUR GOING TO HAVE 3.55 GEARS AND A 3000 STALL RIGHT???

IF YOU RUN 3.55 GEARS OR MORE AND A 3000 STALL YOUR PERFECT

THAT CAMS GOOD FOR BOTH MOTORS 360/318
STOP BANGING YOUR HEAD AND JUST LOOK AT MOPARS TRACK COMBINATIONS.

IF YOU WANT TO USE A SMALLER CAM IN YOUR 318
PAW CAM PART # 10357 .453 LIFT 225 @ 50 DUR.AND A 108 CENTER LINE.
GOOD TO 6000 GRAND \\ USE PAW LIFTERS AND SPRINGS GOOD TO .500 LIFT.
PAW LIFTER PART #2011
PAW VALVE SPRING # VS150
EVERYTHING COST WITH SHIPING $167.78

HAVE YOU RUN THE CAR THE WAY IT IS AT THE TRACK?
 
Mopar cams are based on an ancient design they're much much better cams out there Lunati,Comp ect..i wouldn't run a Mopar cam in my lawnmower..had that .484 in a 340 years ago motor was a total dog with it...
 
To Stroked 340
Purple Shafts Are Dogs
Whats That Mean
That Means Your Car Was A Dog BECAUSE OF The Cam????????
Putting Down A Part Because Something Was Wrong With Your Combination \\\\ Why
I Know Tons Of People Who Still Use Purple Shafts.
How Fast Was Your Car \\\ GEAR \\\ CONVERTOR \\ CARB
 
Mopar cams are based on an ancient design they're much much better cams out there Lunati,Comp ect..i wouldn't run a Mopar cam in my lawnmower..had that .484 in a 340 years ago motor was a total dog with it...

I agree!

I have the P4452992 cam in my 340. It runs OK. Could run way better with a better cam. It has 9 inches of vacuum at idle. I degreed the cam, it's installed @ 106. The fact of the matter is that MP cams have fast ramps on the opening side AND the ramps are way too fast on the closing side which makes them noisy.

MP tells you to multiply the adv. duration by .850 to get the duration @ .050", which comes out to 238. That's correct, but their adv duration is checked at .008", not .006", which is the SAE standard for Hyd cams. I had my cam checked by a local reputable cam grinder before it went in my motor. The duration at .006" is 288! That's why this cam idles so rough.

Don't get me wrong, I love the way it sounds, I would just like it to be more driveable at low speed. 288 duration for .474" lift is ridiculous. You can get more lift with less duration, make better power and have better driveability with another company's cam that was designed in the last 10 or 15 years.
 
The 318 will be a cruiser, the 360 i plan on a few trips down the track,I do however want a little more power out of my 318.


For a 318 cruiser, the p4452992 is NOT the right cam. You need something way smaller. If you want a good cruiser cam that you can just throw in and have it work, look at the Comp Cams 268h. You'll be sorry if you go bigger.
 
Well i got to tell yasss I am now forgeting the 318...... I plan on geting a running 360 and drop it in or rebuilding my 360 witch ever is going to cost me less is the way I will go.the comp cam i have now needs adjustable rockers and pushrods.I wanted to slide one in and not have to F%^& with rockers and pushrods.
 
LILCUDA
WHAT CARB YOU RUNNING??????
THE .474 HAS GREAT LOW SPEED POWER
ONE TIME I TRIED TO DO A BURN OUT WITH NO WATER AND IT PUSHED THE CAR DOWN THE ROAD WITH THE FRONT TIRES LOCKED.:-s
3000 STALL \\ 28 INCH SLICKS
THAT WAS AT 3720 POUNDS \\ 67 CORONET
AGAIN WHAT CARB WERE YOU RUNNING?
 
Hey Snake
Im Lost
Do You Have A Runnig V8 :?:
 
All right than whats a good cam for a 360.With 340 x heads or 340 j heads stock comp,headers,duelplane intake,600 holley,3000 stall,355 gear in a light 69 dart.Keep in mind I do not want to get different rockers or pushrods lets keep the valve train simple.maker and part #ssss please.I admit I goof and so did the shop I got my comp cam.
 
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