Q? on assemble 340 engine

[3406pk]

I'm ready to assemble my 340 engine from 72 Challenger and have a few questions. First I want to thank guitarjones for his oil mods thread and krazycuda for front of engine assemble for the proper way to prep and assemble those parts. Their tips were very helpful. I find all discussion here very helpful and thanks to all.
My questions now are on assy of bearings and crank. Do the bearings go into block & caps dry or do you use any lube. Also before crank goes on, what lube on bearing surfaces. Burt in "How to Rebuild SB Mopar" suggests Dry Film Graphite coating. I used Lubriplate white lube in old days last time I did rebuild. What do you suggest now. Thanks for input.
Build is 72 340 block bored .030, Speed Pro forged L2316F pistons for 9.4 CR. Stock J heads, Hughes cam Hyd flat 2024. Going to be street cruiser only w 4 spd mostly stock.

 

[66fs]

I put the bearings in dry, then flood them and the crank with plenty of SAE 30 Racing oil. Then install the crank. Same for pistons and rings.

 

[GEO]

I stared using white grease 30 something years ago , I still use a version of it .

The latest I used was made by Comp Cams.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-102?seid=srese1&gclid=COOpyZiprsQCFdcWgQodhrMAPw

There is no way I would assemble any motor of mine dry then drench in oil.

This is an engine I built last year

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=29714#photo

After cam break in I change the oil to get all of the assembly lube out , I have ran the engine with lube in it for up to 1000 miles before changing with no ill effects

 

[toolmanmike]

I'm a fan of Lubraplate on all metal to metal contact areas. It has zinc in it too. I put it on the pushrods and rocker to valve stems too. I probably cranked my 273 too long when starting it the first time but it was ok with the Lubraplate on the bearings and valve train. I used it on the cam journals too but used cam assembly lube on the lobes. tmm

 

[harrisonm]

Royal Purple assembly lube on everything is the way to go. It isn't really all that expensive, and it sure works well.

 

[lilcuda]

If you're asking if the back side of the bearings are supposed to go in dry, then the answer is Yes, absolutely! No lube goes between the bearings and the block.

 

[3406pk]

Thanks for all the responses. Yes lolcuda the one question was bearing shell to block. Thanks I will do them dry. I'll put the crank in with regular engine oil to check clearance with plastiguage; then put in seals and I'll use the "Lubriplate 105" white lube on bearing surfaces for final torque. Thanks again.

 

[Dart 440]

Lay crank in dry for plastigauge don't rotate, oil will throw off measurement. Assembly lube??
A 50-50 mix of 30 straight weight and good ole STP oil treatment applied to the bearing surfaces keeps lube in place a long time. Prime your engine by spinning oil pump with drill through distributor opening. Never spun or roasted a bearing in 30 years. Oil is the life blood of the motor be sure you have pressure before you introduce spark and fire it up. Nothing like bringing a new life into the world, gives me goose bumps every time. Good Luck Dart 440

 

[Dart 440]

Lay crank in dry for plastigauge don't rotate, oil will throw off measurement. Assembly lube??
A 50-50 mix of 30 straight weight and good ole STP oil treatment applied to the bearing surfaces keeps lube in place a long time. Prime your engine by spinning oil pump with drill through distributor opening. Never spun or roasted a bearing in 30 years. Oil is the life blood of the motor be sure you have pressure before you introduce spark and fire it up. Nothing like bringing a new life into the world, gives me goose bumps every time. Good Luck Dart 440

 

[krazykuda]

Install the main and crank bearings dry. Then plastic gauge them (plastic gauge requires no oil/lube for accuracy).

After plastic gauge, then wipe plastic gauge off of crank and bearings and then lube with Casite Motor Honey or STP. Lube the cylinders with the same before installing the pistons.

Before installing the pistons, make sure that the rings spin freely in the grooves. Then make sure that the two compression rings and the two thin oil rings have the gaps a minimum of 90° apart from each other - 180° is best.

Get some spare 3/8" hose and cut short lengths (approx 2") and use them over the rod bolt threads to prevent them from nicking the crank as you install them.

Always chase the threads with taps and dies before assembling the parts.

Check all oil passages for blockage with a wire coat hanger before assembling the block. Make sure that the main bearing holes go through to the cam tunnel. also make sure that the head oil holes go through to the cam bearings on the proper side and holes. The cam bearing holes should not overlap the oil holed by more than 50%...

Torque to spec with a good torque wrench.


Make sure that the bearings are hospital clean when installing them. A spec of dirt on the back can make the crank hang up. I've seen it happen.... Cleanliness is godliness...

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Edit: (more info)

Don't lube the back side of the bearings, only the side that contacts the crank...

(Not sure if anyone made this point clear yet...)

Make sure that you have the anchor slots (tabs) opposite each other on the SAME SIDE. The anchor slots on the main bearing caps and rod caps match up to the anchor slot/notch on the mating parts. ALWAYS MATCH UP THE ANCHOR SLOTS ON THE SAME SIDE OPPOSITE EACH OTHER.

Make sure that you use the main bearings with the holes for the block and make sure that the hole lines up with the hole in the main bearing support in the block. The bearing shell without the hole goes in the cap.

If using rods with squirt holes, the squirt holes should point to the opposite cylinder.

If there is a notch on the top of the piston, that goes toward the front of the engine.

 

[3406pk]

Thank krazycuda and Dart440 for tip about doing plastiguage w dry bearings. Yeah I went thru the oil passages and cleaned everything and verified cam bearing oil holes lined up. Cleaned tapped holes. Washed out bores, crank, rods got everything clean. I think I'll use Lubriplate 105 for bearings and then the STP for bores with pistons. Been like 40 yrs since I've used STP. Thanks again for the tips.

 

[66fs]

... Never spun or roasted a bearing in 30 years. Oil is the life blood of the motor be sure you have pressure before you introduce spark and fire it up. Nothing like bringing a new life into the world, gives me goose bumps every time. Good Luck Dart 440

Amen

 

[krazykuda]

Nothing like bringing a new life into the world, gives me goose bumps every time. Good Luck Dart 440

That always gives me a thrill when a fresh engine starts up and runs (without knocks)... Better high than any drug you'll ever try when you get the adrenalin rush thrill after starting an engine that you rebuild on the first test fire.... :cheers: :glasses7:

 

[gorgerider]

In the old days my Sensei had me use 50/50 Lubriplate and STP oil treatment. I see lots of recommendations here, but wondered if that lube still goes.

 

[krazykuda]

In the old days my Sensei had me use 50/50 Lubriplate and STP oil treatment. I see lots of recommendations here, but wondered if that lube still goes.

I use Casite Motor Honey or STP for everything. It's worked for me for years...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

 

[nm9stheham]

Clean the bores with Auto trans fluid over and over until an ATF soaked rag comes out 100% clean. ATF will get all the crud out of the honing grooves. Same if the lifter bores if so inclined.

I have been using mainly just motor oil for assy for 40+ years. Sometimes a bit of moly lube in the bearings, but never anything but oil on the bores, pistons, and rings. I want the rings to break in promptly.

 

[justinp61]

Thank krazycuda and Dart440 for tip about doing plastiguage w dry bearings. Yeah I went thru the oil passages and cleaned everything and verified cam bearing oil holes lined up. Cleaned tapped holes. Washed out bores, crank, rods got everything clean. I think I'll use Lubriplate 105 for bearings and then the STP for bores with pistons. Been like 40 yrs since I've used STP. Thanks again for the tips.

Do not use STP in the cylinder bores, use motor oil.