Rallye Wheels - Help Needed

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Ugh, it's crappy rain and cold.
I wasn't planning on replacing studs and nuts and all, but stuff happens.

My soldering gun gets darn hot, but the map gas is more better hot.

Nice that the centers bolt on the back, except when it's not.

I sprayed soapy water on that tire, it doesn't leak at all through all the cracks and the massive fault line in the sidewall, it only leaks the entire length of the bead.

It will take air, if it's 100psi, off the ground, and you shove your foot into the larger crimped end of the giant flat spot.

Holds air for a few minutes top.

Thank you for all the great, disheartening info, ha!
I'll be back at it soon and will follow up.

Meanwhile, some video candy:
 
Thanks

Move it around by running the starter, good idea.

Except when the starter won't engage, was not expecting that.

Have fun, glad you got it in the building.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
You won’t be grinding or using a torch without destroying the center caps. Just know that up front.
 
413 said:
You won’t be grinding or using a torch without destroying the center caps. Just know that up front.
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Well, I think that if he uses a piece of thin metal to insulate the center cap from grinding spatter or excessive heat and I will stress excessive heat, it's do-able.
That's why I suggested a small butane torch not a regular torch, mapp gas, or rosebud!
It just takes a little heat to go a long way.
You have to have the hands of a surgeon...lol
And yes, I have done this before!
 
Dartnut said:
Well, I think that if he uses a piece of thin metal to insulate the center cap from grinding spatter or excessive heat and I will stress excessive heat, it's do-able.
That's why I suggested a small butane torch not a regular torch, mapp gas, or rosebud!
It just takes a little heat to go a long way.
You have to have the hands of a surgeon...lol
And yes, I have done this before!
Click to expand...
Yeah, no rosebud, you could use that to heat your garage! Lol.
 
This cheap torch set up is good for tight spaces and has a small flame. I have a larger set of torches but this has helped me on a few occasions. If you have regular oxy/Acy set you could try a brazing tip.
Amazon product ASIN B07NVQS9D1
 
Cobalt drill bits.
 
Kendog 170 said:
This cheap torch set up is good for tight spaces and has a small flame. I have a larger set of torches but this has helped me on a few occasions. If you have regular oxy/Acy set you could try a brazing tip.
Amazon product ASIN B07NVQS9D1
Click to expand...
That's what I would use is a brazing tip on a torch where you can concentrate the heat on the nut. If you could drill a hole in the end or grind the end off so you could get some penetrating oil to the threads would really help.
NoCar340 said:
I've had excellent luck with Gorilla brand chrome lug nuts, both personally and professionally. Our shop uses them to replace OE nuts with stainless caps that bulge and fall off. I've sold hundreds, maybe thousands of 'em. Great quality and relatively inexpensive.
A wee touch of Nevr-Seez on the end of the threads and you'll never have this kind of problem again. It's standard operating procedure in rust country.
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I mentioned using Nevr-Seez on my lugs on FBBO and was immediately told I'm an idiot and you couldn't do that as the nuts would come loose. Obviously this person never lived in rust country either, because if you didn't use Nevr-Seez on the semi lugs you would never get them off after one winter except with a torch. I've been doing that for 50 years and never had a nut come loose.
 
NoCar340 said:
If you're working on the driver's side, the lugs are LH thread from the factory. Righty-loosey, lefty-tighty!
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Many good comments here but I would like to add another one. Wack one of the acorn nuts with a large hammer a couple times and try backing off the nut. left side (would be right off), right side (would be left off). It's possible someone may have changed the studs for all rights. Look for the slash marks on the side of the left side nuts, to be a left one and not a right one.
 
GTXDAN said:
I mentioned using Nevr-Seez on my lugs on FBBO and was immediately told I'm an idiot and you couldn't do that as the nuts would come loose. Obviously this person never lived in rust country either, because if you didn't use Nevr-Seez on the semi lugs you would never get them off after one winter except with a torch. I've been doing that for 50 years and never had a nut come loose.
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I just had a similar discussion with a customer on Thursday. "At [my old job], doing that would get you fired."
"That's why it's still a small company. It's run by idiots. I've been doing it since you being conceived was a wet dream. I've never had one come loose, much less off. Threads only, not on the seat. Tighten them in sequence to the torque spec and it's fine."
He gave me a look like I made up the sequence and torque spec bit.

Worked two years in a diesel shop. They never had a wheel nut come loose either.
 
NoCar340 said:
I just had a similar discussion with a customer on Thursday. "At [my old job], doing that would get you fired."
"That's why it's still a small company. It's run by idiots. I've been doing it since you being conceived was a wet dream. I've never had one come loose, much less off. Threads only, not on the seat. Tighten them in sequence to the torque spec and it's fine."
He gave me a look like I made up the sequence and torque spec bit.

Worked two years in a diesel shop. They never had a wheel nut come loose either.
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I have been doing the same for years, NO PROBLEM. Would like to add, I also use the Never - seize on the back of the rims where they make contact to the drums or rotors. Specially on MAG type wheels.
 
I had to sledge hammer the rotors off of my '15 Renegade.

The new ones got a healthy application of anti-seize on all the surfaces that contact the hub.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I have been doing the same for years, NO PROBLEM. Would like to add, I also use the Never - seize on the back of the rims where they make contact to the drums or rotors. Specially on MAG type wheels.
Click to expand...
YY1 said:
I had to sledge hammer the rotors off of my '15 Renegade.

The new ones got a healthy application of anti-seize on all the surfaces that contact the hub.
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Hell yeah, and when I did brakes the self adjuster got wire wheeled and slathered with Nevr-Seez so it would keep working forever. If you lived up north where they put salt on the roads and then changed to that liquid stuff that was just as bad everything rusted out. That's why the front fenders and the rear quarters rusted out behind the tires on everything.
 
Not sure what did it exactly, but sprayed some liquid wrench a few days ago, worked them back and forth a bit yesterday, hit them with the impact today, took a bit but spun them off.
I think it helped that it was warm today, but who knows.

That rear tire is the only one that was flat, the sidewall is completely cratered but it doesn't leak there.
It leaks all around the bead, outside only.

Sat decades, front tires on concrete, with the passenger side facing any possible weather, yet the driver side tire was destroyed.

Oh well, onward. Going to post another video soon.
Digging this toad.

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matthon said:
Not sure what did it exactly, but sprayed some liquid wrench a few days ago, worked them back and forth a bit yesterday, hit them with the impact today, took a bit but spun them off.
I think it helped that it was warm today, but who knows.

That rear tire is the only one that was flat, the sidewall is completely cratered but it doesn't leak there.
It leaks all around the bead, outside only.

Sat decades, front tires on concrete, with the passenger side facing any possible weather, yet the driver side tire was destroyed.

Oh well, onward. Going to post another video soon.
Digging this toad.

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Man, that is a nice looking car.
So, are you gonna tell us which way the lug nuts turned? :lol:
 
LH as it left the factory.
I pulled the 13" wheel off again to get the drum off so it rolls freely, and it was much better. After a wire wheel, and working them back and forth with the wheel off, it seems fine now.

The other 3 came off no problem whatsoever.

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matthon said:
So, I bought a Valiant with SBP Rallye Wheels on all 4 corners. Car sat a long time and I went to pull the only wheel with a flat off it today and it will not budge.

Jack handle on breaker bar, impact gun, a few appear to move a tiny amount.
I tried working the lugs back and forth, no luck.
I've never had lugs not come off before.

I have zero experience with these wheels.

Is the center cap held on with bolts from the rear, on all Rallye wheels?

Is there a known issue with the chrome lugs seizing to the studs?

I wanted to use some penetrating spray, but I didn't want to leave it all over the center caps if it will somehow ruin them.

Just trying to pull 1 to move the car, and the others to clean/paint and determine the width so I can get some tires.

Any info the wheels is appreciated, lug size, width, silver paint, anything.

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