If the front wheels still spin with the pedal all the way down something isn't right in that front system. And it's not air, because you could pump them up and then they'd hold. You're not getting enough pressure to the front for some reason.
Rear brakes are not bleeding.
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
When your son pumps it up to hard "brick" and hold it, could you take the m/c caps off, have him release the pedal, and report what kind of return you get back into the reservoirs.
Which reservoir does what, pls, tia.
Rinse any br fluid on paint right away.
Which reservoir does what, pls, tia.
Rinse any br fluid on paint right away.
Test the system one component at a time. Start with the master cylinder. With both ports on the master cylinder plugged and bled observe the compensator ports in the master. You should see movement of fluid from the compensator ports when the pedal is applied and when it is released. If the pedal " bricks " crack a plug one at a time and see if pressure releases. If cracking the plug at a port releases pressure then make sure the linkage is 100% retracted and not keeping the piston from returning all the way. If the master is working properly then when the pedal is released the piston retracts and uncovers both the front and rear compensator ports and no pressure will remains in either port. If this part of your system isn't working then neither will the rest of the system. Good luck!
Make sure the rod is letting the mc return all the way
Not in too far
Not in too far
Finally! It’s fixed!!!!
So funny story… it was my front calipers. All of the air wasn’t bleeding out of the front calipers, as they are 72+ calipers, meant for the front of the rotor and bleeder isn’t high enough to get the last of the air out, unless I switched the sides they were on. Switching the sides they were on would put my soft lines at an awkward angle though.
A huge thank you to DrDiff for helping me out on this one. He saw a picture of my front caliper and instantly told me the problem.
I thought about switching them from side to side but said forget it, I’m going to use the 11.7 front brake kit that I got from him up front.
Installed most of it last night, then gravity bled them tonight. The fronts bled in 15-20 minutes without even getting anyone to push the pedal.
I’ll try to install the wheels tomorrow and take it for a spin.
I would have finished it yesterday but we woke up to a flooded basement and then in the evening our drying stopped working. Plumber couldn’t find any issues in the basement and I fixed the dryer…. Now… time to try and not break anything for a while.
So funny story… it was my front calipers. All of the air wasn’t bleeding out of the front calipers, as they are 72+ calipers, meant for the front of the rotor and bleeder isn’t high enough to get the last of the air out, unless I switched the sides they were on. Switching the sides they were on would put my soft lines at an awkward angle though.
A huge thank you to DrDiff for helping me out on this one. He saw a picture of my front caliper and instantly told me the problem.
I thought about switching them from side to side but said forget it, I’m going to use the 11.7 front brake kit that I got from him up front.
Installed most of it last night, then gravity bled them tonight. The fronts bled in 15-20 minutes without even getting anyone to push the pedal.
I’ll try to install the wheels tomorrow and take it for a spin.
I would have finished it yesterday but we woke up to a flooded basement and then in the evening our drying stopped working. Plumber couldn’t find any issues in the basement and I fixed the dryer…. Now… time to try and not break anything for a while.
mopar head
DoD nuisance Alien/Squatch extermination team
Hallelujah! It seems all that was mentioned earlier in this thread?
Anyhow, glad for you Doc and I hope ya get all that mess cleaned up and stress dissipates.
Anyhow, glad for you Doc and I hope ya get all that mess cleaned up and stress dissipates.
Hallelujah! It seems all that was mentioned earlier in this thread?
Anyhow, glad for you Doc and I hope ya get all that mess cleaned up and stress dissipates.
I did that with the rear brakes multiple times. I thought I installed the fronts the same way I had them installed before and never thought anything of it.
Now I just have to buy a front and rear brake kit for the copper car again
mopar head
DoD nuisance Alien/Squatch extermination team
Hang in there bud, you`ll be a brake system master when all`s said and doneI did that with the rear brakes multiple times. I thought I installed the fronts the same way I had them installed before and never thought anything of it.
Now I just have to buy a front and rear brake kit for the copper car again
Thank goodness! Hope you get some good quality time driving your car now.
Good to hear Justin! I've been following along hoping you'd get it straightened out.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
So this all started with leaving what ever front disc were already on car and swapping on rear disc from black Dart? And front calipers that were already on car would trap air? Now your swapping on 11.75 front disc after problem was solved?
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Curious if you tried the air test in post 127 ?
With air in the front calipers, there should have been a heavy return to the Master cylinder by the air you compressed in the caliper .
With air in the front calipers, there should have been a heavy return to the Master cylinder by the air you compressed in the caliper .
I kept the same rotors, but the calipers and lines were brand new. I installed the same calipers that were already on the car from before. I also had them on the car the same way I believe. I bet I bench bled the front calipers before installing years ago.
Yeah I swapped the 11.7s up front using DrDiff calipers and it gravity bled within minutes.
Nope I swapped the fronts before even seeing it. The new brakes work great! Pads need to get broken in and I need to get used to the new pedal.
I just have to figure out why the car sounds like a semi when I’m decelerating now… it’s not the RPMs either. I assume it’s from the 3rd member with 4.10s in it that I swapped over. I don’t think it should sound like a semi though. Luckily, swapping those out only take a couple minutes……. Unless I run into any problems
see why I need a super nice car I don’t tinker with? So I still have one to drive 
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Thanks for reporting back, appreciated,
Good luck .
Good luck .
pinion bearings or gearset too tight check you back lashNope I swapped the fronts before even seeing it. The new brakes work great! Pads need to get broken in and I need to get used to the new pedal.
I just have to figure out why the car sounds like a semi when I’m decelerating now… it’s not the RPMs either. I assume it’s from the 3rd member with 4.10s in it that I swapped over. I don’t think it should sound like a semi though. Luckily, swapping those out only take a couple minutes……. Unless I run into any problems
That’s what people said on Facebook in the Abodies group. It wouldn’t let me post the videos here.
I don’t know how to check that stuff. I’ll throw my 3.23s back in it and drive the piss out of it.
I don’t know how to check that stuff. I’ll throw my 3.23s back in it and drive the piss out of it.
When its out should have same play in the gear as your 323
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Backlash is slack between pinion and ring gear. Hold yoke still, put dial indicator on ring gear, rock ring gear back and forth, dial indicator will measure backlash. Not hard to do at all.
Pinion bearings should not have any slack and should have an inch pounds preload when rotated.
Pinion bearings should not have any slack and should have an inch pounds preload when rotated.
And post a pic of your ring gear might beable to see if its wearing crazy
This is from before I installed it. I bought it a couple years ago from a racer somewhat local to me. He said he ran it in his car for a couple passes then took it out.
I’ll drop it back out and do some measurements then post back.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I had a used set of 5:12s that sounded like a police siren every time you decelerated.
Took a while to get get used to, - but too tall for my 14 inch tires and the 1/4 mile .
Took a while to get get used to, - but too tall for my 14 inch tires and the 1/4 mile .
If you have some gear marking compound that might be helpful.
Even some "blue"
They look a little pitted
Normally whine on deceleration is tight
In neutral you should have a little play in driveshaft (gear backlash)
Would think 1/16 to 1/8 "
Im thinking it's closer to 1/16 with out removing it it's what I would feel for
And no up down play
They look a little pitted
Normally whine on deceleration is tight
In neutral you should have a little play in driveshaft (gear backlash)
Would think 1/16 to 1/8 "
Im thinking it's closer to 1/16 with out removing it it's what I would feel for
And no up down play
340six
King Of Bling
They look like they were rusted and pitted. Bet the previous owner cleaned them up and ran them. Same bearings and were heavily oiled when you got um so you never noticed. Last part is a guess on my part.
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