Replacing my distributor first time
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kiss
Well-Known Member
the blade goes into a gear, so no you do not add a gear to the bottom of it like most other distributors have
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
What you are missing is an intermediate shaft
This is driven by the camshaft, and the upper part of it engages the distributor, while the lower part engages the oil pump
(The flat spot you see on the bottom of the distributor goes into this shaft)
So when you swap distributors, the intermediate shaft stays in the engine
If you ever change over to a high pressure oil pump you may want to replace that shaft, but at this point I wouldn't worry about it
This is driven by the camshaft, and the upper part of it engages the distributor, while the lower part engages the oil pump
(The flat spot you see on the bottom of the distributor goes into this shaft)
So when you swap distributors, the intermediate shaft stays in the engine
If you ever change over to a high pressure oil pump you may want to replace that shaft, but at this point I wouldn't worry about it
Thanks Kevin for the quick response. So you are saying that I just pull the old out and slide the new one in and that's it.
Sweet thanks so much!!
Yep, just make sure the rotor under the cap is pointing the same direction as the old one.
Pull the distributor cap off the old one before pulling it out and note where the rotor is pointing to, then install the new one so the rotor points in the same direction...
Some distributors are 90° off and you may need to readjust the spark plug wires on the distributor cap to compensate, but it's an easy fix if you need to do it...
65Val
Average Length Member
That's one method...I've just pulled the inter. shaft out and turned it 90* to match the new dizzy...easy, peasy...
I sometimes have trouble when rotating the dist gear to get the hex lined up back in the oil pump... I usually put the shaft in before the pump and leave them together...
65Val
Average Length Member
I've found if you lift the inter gear "just enough" to disengage it from the cam, it is still engaged in the oil pump...rotate 90* and it drops back down. YMMV.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I would not screw with the gear no matter what. Pull the cap, bump wrench the engine until it's on TDC and look is the rotor pointing to no6 or no1? Pull the dist, drop in the new one with the rotor pointing at or "closest" to same as the old, and if it was 1, plug the no1 wire into where the new rotor points. If it was on 6, dittoo....Plug the no6 wire wherever that rotor points
Set your timing and you are done
According to "ratvon" I never work on anything so I don't know
Set your timing and you are done
According to "ratvon" I never work on anything so I don't know
65Val
Average Length Member
To each his own, I guess. It really doesn't matter where the gear is oriented...it's where the rotor is that counts. As long as the rotor is in the same spot before and after, the engine runs the same.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
No the rotor doesn't matter, either. What matters is that the rotor is firing the no1 plug when it should be. I've said this before.......you could throw the gear in with your eyes closed, then toss the dist in right after it. Then line up your timing "where you want timing" static, throw the no1 plug wire at the rotor IF YOU have no1 piston on compression, and it will run.
Since this dist doesn't look much factory, it really isn't right or wrong......unless a couple of wires are short and you have to rotate things to get them to fit
Since this dist doesn't look much factory, it really isn't right or wrong......unless a couple of wires are short and you have to rotate things to get them to fit
65Val
Average Length Member
Yes, the rotor does matter. If you don't want to fart with the wires, then the rotor HAS to point at the wire that was firing when he removed the old dizzy, so, line that up, move the gear to line up with the blade and, poof, it runs!
Del...not here to argue...has worked for me, many times. Do it whatever way you like. Just sayin'.......
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I realize, but this might confuse the guy. All I'm sayin is you can move the wire, if you don't want to move the rotor/ gear. Maybe you are not stating that as clearly. I agree..........different ways.........
My first car was a 57 Chev 265. Hell I didn't KNOW there was a 'right' way to do the distributor wires. I was in a gas station (summer of 66) and the gas jock says, "how does it run, it's out of time?"
My first car was a 57 Chev 265. Hell I didn't KNOW there was a 'right' way to do the distributor wires. I was in a gas station (summer of 66) and the gas jock says, "how does it run, it's out of time?"
ramenth
Gratis persona
Val, Del, you guys can confuse a novice with the back and forth. For the novice's sake, I tend to agree with Del. Don't screw with the gear.
Pull the cap and note location of rotor, drop the new distributor in with the button located at that spot. Easy enough.
Pull the cap and note location of rotor, drop the new distributor in with the button located at that spot. Easy enough.
I came here for an argument....
If the engine ran before and was in time, there is no reason to move the gear! Install the new distributor the way the old one came out, throw a timing light on it to adjust and happy cruising!
65Val
Average Length Member
Mike...some dizzy's come with the blade orientated in a different position compared to the rotor position...ie: 4spdragtop Steve's situation recently.
(Photo credit - 4spdragtop)
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Well guys I appreciate all your advice and I think I will be fine getting it swapped out. I'm trying to go through all the simple components to this engine and see if I can increase the HP a little without major rebuild or engine swap. Had a 318 in a 74' duster once and it had decent power for the size vehicle but what a joke putting a 170hp 318 tbi. in a 5,500 lb. RamCharger. Gets worst gas mpg on the interstate cause I have to keep the pedal to the floor to keep it at 60 on any slight hills. It is lifted with 35's but I don't believe for a second that is that major of an issue. I've had several lifted trucks with stock power and it changed the passing power etc. half as much as this 318. I'm going to search this forum for easy 318 hp increase ideas.
Sorry, late to the party. Proper clocking should be checked before installing. Curious as to whether all "Mopar" brand distributor's ace clocked the same. If the off shore built products aren't, I would question their quality. Thanks
65Val
Average Length Member
Mike...those pics I posted were from 4spdragtop's recent dizzy swap, due to inferior running. Both his dizzy's were, he says, "Mopar" ones, but were different years...one of them out of his truck, I believe. As you can see, the rotor's are lined up, but the "blade" is not. My contention is you can just move the inter. shaft to line up with the "blade" of each dizzy, and the engine will run properly, without having to move any plug wires.
Besides, I was looking at a spare cap I have, and #1 plug wire tower is actually marked "1", so if you go by that, one of those dizzys will have to have the inter shaft clocked to match.
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This afternoon I installed a distributor I bought from Trailbeast a few months ago. I'll fire it up tonight to check/set the timing but the install was straightforward. Removed the old cap and rotor, then unplugged the connector and vacuum advance hose, removed the bolt/clamp and lifted the old one out. Lined up the new distributor blade to slide into the gear and dropped the new distributor in with the rotor pointing in the same direction as the old one (so it's not 180 out). Plugged everything back in and it's ready to set the timing now. The alignment of the blade relative to the rotor was the same on the one I bought from Trailbeast as my old one.
65Val
Average Length Member
Then, your 2 were clocked the same...lucked out there.
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