roll bar vs. roll cage

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Vitamin c

Vitamin c

Vitamin c
FABO Gold Member
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Can someone tell me what is needed when i put a roll bar in my 69 dart. After running a low 11 sec time last weekend and with 10,s in sight, it looks like ill need a roll bar if i continue to take it to the track. My understanding is anything under a 11.50 needs a roll bar. Is there a point when you need a roll "cage" with the hoop above the wind shield? Ive looked in the IHRA rule book and cant seem to find the answer. The Alston chassis sight makes it sound like the roll "bar" is good to 11.00, anything faster than that, and you'll need a cage. After reading the latest Mopar muscle, Boligs Valiant was in the same boat, and after seeing the pics that have been posted from the Carlisle show, he has put in a "cage". If someone can help here, my next questions will be what make of cage/bar and can i put it in myself?
 
I've got a six-point roll bar in my duster,its good down to 10.00's..

duster 004.jpg


duster 001.jpg
 
I got my 8-point from Chassisworks. It was a little more than Jeg's, but I didn't have to pay shipping. I think a cage is needed at 10.00, but you might want to check with your local track just to make sure.
 
I got a pre-bend 8 pt. cage from S&W Racing for my 66 Dart($179)and installed it myself.Make sure to get a d.side swing out bar(hinges).
 
I went with a 10pt cage and it came from S&W Racecars. I went with a cage just because i had the whole interior stripped out of the car and didnt want to pull it out again if i wanted to add on to the bar for the cage.
 
get a chrome moly cage made from a reputable chassis shop, it might be a little more but definitely worth it in the long run.
 
The kits work, but if you want a nice job the custom shop is the way to go. The typical steel cage will add about 200lbs to the car when complete. If you plan to go faster over time, the chromoly is a good thought only because you can add to a properly done 6pt as you need to go faster. While a steel 6 or 8 pt is good, too much more gets very heavy... Remember most tracks will look carefully at the welds too. So no grinding and no snotty crap allowed. It can either help save your life, or help lose it.
 
if your going to do a full cage in a swinger find a back seat out of a 4 Door swinger beacuse that four door car back seats have pre cut corners in them that will allow the cage to drop nicely into place instead of having to customize your seat
 
Does anyone know or a good chassis shop in the western Mi area that could give an estimate and weld in a cage?
 
mopardrt said:
if your going to do a full cage in a swinger find a back seat out of a 4 Door swinger beacuse that four door car back seats have pre cut corners in them that will allow the cage to drop nicely into place instead of having to customize your seat[/QUOTE
im currently not, and dont plan to run a back seat
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Here are some weights per foot of MS and CM

Mild Steel .134 Wall D.O.M.
1 3/4 = 2.31lb 1 5/8 = 2.13lb 1 1/4 = 1.60lb

4130 Chrome Moly .083 Wall
1 3/4 = 1.47lb 1 5/8 = 1.37lb 1 1/4 = 1.03lb

4130 Chrome Moly .065 Wall
1 1/4 = .82lb

A normal 6 point bar has about 25-30' of tube and about 5' of crossbar in it. You save about 20-30# with cm and a lot more $ for material and install. CM can not be mig welded per NHRA.
 
Vitamin c said:
Does anyone know or a good chassis shop in the western Mi area that could give an estimate and weld in a cage?
Click to expand...
Ricky Adkins did mine.He is almost across the street from Milan Dragway. Located in Milan Michigan Owned by Ricky & Lesa Adkins. We are a custom fabricating shop. Building custom race cars or modify the one you have. We do it all. Call us 734-439-3555 or 419-350-0176
 
I don't know if you new but Milan Dragway went to NHRA a year or two ago. So if you plan on running there you might want to check the NHRA rule book. Since Milan has gone to NHRA I've still been able to run 11.50 without any roll bar, any faster than that I was told to I would have to install rollbar. Jayson

Vitamin c said:
Can someone tell me what is needed when i put a roll bar in my 69 dart. After running a low 11 sec time last weekend and with 10,s in sight, it looks like ill need a roll bar if i continue to take it to the track. My understanding is anything under a 11.50 needs a roll bar. Is there a point when you need a roll "cage" with the hoop above the wind shield? Ive looked in the IHRA rule book and cant seem to find the answer. The Alston chassis sight makes it sound like the roll "bar" is good to 11.00, anything faster than that, and you'll need a cage. After reading the latest Mopar muscle, Boligs Valiant was in the same boat, and after seeing the pics that have been posted from the Carlisle show, he has put in a "cage". If someone can help here, my next questions will be what make of cage/bar and can i put it in myself?
Click to expand...
 
I am in a position to offer advive from a unique perspective. I have raced multiple a bodies in Stock and Superstock for years. I recently suffered a top end crash in my G/SA 340 Demon. It had a roll bar only and after this crash I will never have another car without a cage and forward bars. I will also have race seats in my cars. After seeing the pictures while in the hospital I cant figure out how I survived. I will post some pics and let u be the judge. My only hope is to keep someone from going through the pain I am currently going through. Ken
 
Ken - You had your guardian angel riding beside you in that crash! You're right - you are lucky.
Just curious, what caused the crash? Did this happen at Fontana or another track?

Ken (ocdart)
 
0This happened at Fontana on 8/14. I hit the brakes at the finish line nd the pedal was dead solid. My best guess is the rod came out of the master. There was a stop to prevent that but it must have slipped or broke. I hit the rail at the turn out at probably between 80 and 100 mph. From the pics u can see how the seat failed and the cross bar for the seat belts moved 8 to 10 inches. I feel a cage with forward bas and better seats would have not allowed me to come forward like I did.
 
I decided on a custom bent moly bar from a chassis shop. Tuesday of this week i dropped the car off at Skinny kid race cars near Detroit and am scheduled to pick it up next week. I was told a bar would be ok at the current speed, but could be upgraded to a cage at any time. Ill post some pics when i get the car picked up.
 
Ken Etter said:
0This happened at Fontana on 8/14. I hit the brakes at the finish line nd the pedal was dead solid. My best guess is the rod came out of the master. There was a stop to prevent that but it must have slipped or broke. I hit the rail at the turn out at probably between 80 and 100 mph. From the pics u can see how the seat failed and the cross bar for the seat belts moved 8 to 10 inches. I feel a cage with forward bas and better seats would have not allowed me to come forward like I did.
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Is there a particular school of thought on what to do if you are in a situation at the track in which you know for certain you will not stop?

I've had my own theories on this but am not a long time racer, probably made 40-50 passes in my life tops.
 
guys,
Im putting the interior back together after having the cage installed in the dart and have a question on the Simpson 5 point harness. Included with the harness is an anti submarine belt that attaches to the floor. Do i have to use it, or is it optional?
 
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