Sad Story On a Gear Vendors OD

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Dyno pic

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YY1 said:
Anything higher than 1:1 that enables you to run a 3.5-4.1 axles and end up with a 2.7-3.2 final has got to be a big plus both for a performance increase and an MPG increase.

About the only negatives I've read on the GV is the already posted reverse grenade.
Unless there is a better way, I think I'd wire a cutout triggered by the backup light circuit.
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Unless you literally threw it in reverse while moving forward or pressed the button while in reverse this isn't going to happen. As soon as you go come to a stop the GV disengages automaticly.
 
roccodart440 said:
Unless you literally threw it in reverse while moving forward or pressed the button while in reverse this isn't going to happen. As soon as you go come to a stop the GV disengages automaticly.
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That is very unlikely due to shifter rules for track. One would really have to try to make that happen. (But I have seen stranger)
 
I have a 10 second Duster as well (Thus the A-body) The idea was to have a 2 car team. Duster for the pit team to play. The Cuda for my speed objectives. Besides. If the Duster is struggling with a particular track? I can count on the Cuda having issues. Not sure I can swing the one team two car fantasy? But going to try at least one season.
 
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roccodart440 said:
What was the initial cost of the used GVOD? 800$ to repair could still be a steal.

I have a GVOD and it's worth it's weight in gold.
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Sorry, unless people quote a message I never know there was a question.:D
He paid 500 for the GV, so you are right that he could still come out pretty good on it.

YY1 said:
I tow cars and trucks half way across the state in OD, on a dolly with my 2000 Dakota.
167,000 hard tuck use miles and never a trans issue (except maybe a delayed 2-3 shift when cold for that last 20K miles) despite the 1990's-early 00's reputation for any MFG having massive trans failures.
The OD turns my 3.92 axle into a 2.7 ratio. Best of both worlds.

The trick is to keep it out of OD until you are at or near cruise speed, and if you want engine braking, turn it off before you prepare to stop.
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What you described as your use of the overdrive is exactly why I'm fairly comfortable with the Dakota trans with OD in my car.
Not only does the truck weigh a lot more, but it's also rated for towing 5 or 6k.
I have it set up to where it only goes into OD at the speed I set the adjustable pressure switches for.
It will only go into OD above 65mph, and drops out of OD at anything under 65.
Converter clutch is set up the same way, but at 75mph.
This makes where I don't have to do anything for them to do what they do, and never have to worry about remembering to disengage the converter.
I just put it in D and everything is fully automatic.
Also OD and lockup can be completely bypassed manually with the switches inside the car on the shifter base, basicially making it an A999.
 
cojohnso said:
GV says there race .78 is rated to 2000 horse for lower R


Yes. I have a very unusual build in an E-body Cuda. The reason I reference towing and diesels is because they better approximate load needs. The motor is 904 ci (6 inch stroke) that behaves more like a diesel. Thus inquiring about how trucks handle the torque and load demands. This is a race application with some light street requirements. (And I do mean "Light")

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LMAO, we’ll there is a curve ball to end all curve balls!!!!
More pictures please!
 
rumblefish360 said:
LMAO, we’ll there is a curve ball to end all curve balls!!!!
More pictures please!
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Yeah. Sorry about that. I should have probably led with intentions. But I started asking questions and had to back peddle a bit.
 
So, is the Cuda towing a trailer at Drag Week?Because that would start to make mucho sense!
 
rumblefish360 said:
So, is the Cuda towing a trailer at Drag Week?Because that would start to make mucho sense!
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You want sence? Ah, well that's a different story. I wanted to chime in on OD strength. (Or inquire of) the Duster "Recycler?" That was due to its many Duster parts. Thus the name. It's a 74. Not the most sought after year for Duster. But it's solid. And has put plenty on their trailer. Not bad for single crab 451 NA. most I race usually has one shot of juice. The Cuda? It's a build that's hard to compare. That's why I sneak in on truck discussions. I will post more pics and better explanation once on laptop. And not 2" phone screen. But you are right. It just might tow decent?
 
I typically shift 1-2-3-3od and 4od. This makes for a short fourth (.78), and a long od (.71). I like it.
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od. With 3.55s the starter is 10.97, and the cruiser is 2.77; 65=2236

The A500/518 has a .69od gear, and with 3.55s in lock up; 65=1978, that's a 258 rpm difference, in favor of the TF.
But what this does not tell you is that the A518 starter is just 8.70. Even if you give the TC 10%, this is still only 9.57. To get to 10.97, the A518 would need 4.10s and 9% slip. But then overdrive jumps up to 2285, now 48rpm higher, advantage to A833.

But there's more;
as to the Commando-A833/GVOD combo, with 3.55s, the road gears are
10.97-6.82-4.97-3.55-2.77,and 65= 2236; ........next, the way I shift it (short 4th),
10.97-6.82-4.97-3.88-2.77..........and next;the A518/GVOD/ roadgears are;
-----8.70--- 5.15-3.55-2.45 locked up......adding 5% for the TC this becomes
-----9.14----5.41-3.73-2.45 loc-up.... To get some off the line grunt, consider 3.91s, and then
10.05-------5.95-4.10-2.70 locked up, and ............ 65=2177
Ok so now look at the splits; first the A833; .62.-73-.78-.72 (Short 4th)
then the A518.........................................59-.69-.69 oh-oh, only 4 gears lol.
So now I think I sorta got an apples to apples comparison.

And I didn't even mention gear-splitting.
 
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@conohnso A good Duster body is getting harder to get. I don’t mind the difference in early and late. When they went to econo lunch box size. Well that’s different.
 
roccodart440 said:
The difference between .78 and .73 OD ratios is 200RPM at any given speed. (or 5mph)


That isn't a huge difference unless you are running some really severe gear.... Now I run 28's with 4.56's and 60mph is 2500RPm.
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I agree with that. I was simply stating what I've seen people say about it right on this forum. That said, the GM transmission swaps would net OD ratios down in the high 60s. That's pretty impressive.
 
The gearing I understand. it's what the OD gear can take? 1200 horse power exposes many character flaws?
AJ/FormS said:
I like the power-bulge Duster hoods, but not a fan of the later tail-lights.
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I agree. They moved to a rather boring rectangular rear lens. The 451 is a 74 block. And once had ported 452 iron heads keeping to a somewhat Super Stock build. (Or at least "SS Theme") But now I put B1/BS heads. So blew any SS fantasy. The new heads uped compression from 10.5:1 to 12.5:1 So now running 1050 4150 style HP carb metered for E-85. Exhaust smells kinda funny. (I think it smells a little like french fries) But cheap fuel to accommodate the higher compression.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
I agree with that. I was simply stating what I've seen people say about it right on this forum. That said, the GM transmission swaps would net OD ratios down in the high 60s. That's pretty impressive.
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No doubt, and if were starting a build from scratch I'd consider a GM transmission and a host of others. But if you have a transmission already, or you are putting down some serious HP, the GVOD is a tried and true contender.
 
More Cuda pics . Of the mock then installation of the motor. It's not on the K-frame but bolted to the front frame rails at front and mid plates. The pic of the JW Ultra bell powerglide is not mine. Mine is still in crate. But is very similar to pic. Dana has a very old school leaf link system that I was told the original racers spent many hours getting pinion angle and setup right. So after gear, brake and axle upgrade Im going to attempt with their setup. All sorts of risks with this build. As you can see car was HEAVILY modified in the early 70s. Thus I chose to keep modified. Even though car was originally a V-code 440 six pack 4-speed car? Engine and trans are long gone.

904 side.JPG


Mockup.JPG


trans side.jpg


Rearend (After).JPG


Back Seat (After).JPG


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Backside head.jpg


Oil pump.JPG


Front View Engine Bay.JPG
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's crazy.
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Yes. It is a bit nuts. The motor has a deck height of 13" and is 5" wider than a street hemi. After some measurement it was concluded it will fit inside the original engine well. And because the exhaust ports angle down more than a big hemI? Exhaust pipes are possible. I still may have to remove shock towers and go with coil over aftermarket front suspension. (Which may not be a bad idea anyways.) Would solve a couple other issues.

If you want to stand out? I believe you have 2 choices? A top original build? Or something crazy? I chose latter.
 
pishta said:
final drive for 833 OD .73.. Ford 5sp .68... Tremac is a .74. Whats the best OD ratio?
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Depends on the combo and what you want to do with it.
Running a 292/108-equipped 340 at 1650 is not gonna get you any better fuel economy as running it at 2200. At 2200 reversion has about stopped, and you can put some timing in that beast and lean it out. At 1650 the intake is so full of crap it will hardly run in neutral.
Running a very hi-compression 367 with a modest cam at 65= 1400, yeah sure that will save you gas.
If you wanna use that fifth gear for something other than cruising, then .80 might be nice.
If you are running 4.56s, then a .68 would be nice, but with 3.91s .73 might be nicer, and with 3.23s maybe .78 fits best.
Cruising at 85mph will/may want a different ratio than cruising at 65.
 
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so a blanket ".xx is no good" is purely an application specific opinion, could be great for certain combo.
 
1 to 1 to .68 to 1 is a big jump! all my gear splitting and OD knowledge is big truck related! a rto 13 splits top 4 gears with 12th at 1 to 1,and 13th .78, but my favorite, the rtoo 10th is 1 to 1, 11th is .92 to 1, 12th is .82 to 1 and 13th is .68 to 1 but takes a big hoss to pull it out at 80,000 gross!!
 
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