Small block LA oil filter adapters.

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David D Schnelker

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Does anyone have a preference on the oil filter adapter for a small block LA motor. its a 360 and the adapter I got at @ ebay leaks badly. it's one of those flat washer style adapters. I'm gonna change the filter tomorrow and hope that takes care of it. I didn't exactly where it was coming from but my duddy says it definitely coming from between the block and the giant washer adapter thing. It lost a QUART in less than 30 seconds. I put the washer/plate adapter thing on after i broke in the cam and before I installed the engine in the car. It had a cast iron remote filter relocator housing on it when I broke the cam in, but it was dangling around and I didnt' like the idea of the two hoses possibly leaking when in the new engine compartment. So, I threw it away like an idiot. Now I can't seem to find one that works. Anyone have preference or know where I can get something that won't spew oil everywhere? I'm so frustrated to be this close after all of the set backs and now that thing is way down on the side of the motor and hard to reach after the motor is installed. I checked it very closely when i installed it. looked good to me - is it possible to over-torque the center threaded adapter tube that the oil filter goes onto? I really snugged it down good. Now I don't know what to think. any ideas/thoughts... Thanks
 
I use the adapter from Canton Racing and have had no leakage with it.
It uses an o-ring in leu of the paper gasket. I am not sure what you have, but if you can move it by hand, and you tightened it like you say and it still moves, you probably have one machined incorrect, or the adapter nut got cross threaded when installing so it doesn't bottom out.
Just my $.02
 
I have to say the big round gasket area must be clean clean clean before you put the whole thing together. Razor cleaned. And I'm not sure what you mean by washer style. Here's a pic from this site from some other post. How about a picture of what you are talking about? Is this what you have or are you talking a 90 degree adapter?

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It had a cast iron remote filter relocator housing on it when I broke the cam in, but it was dangling around and I didnt' like the idea of the two hoses possibly leaking when in the new engine compartment. So, I threw it away like an idiot.
Whoops!

I had the opposite problem in that I wanted to go with a remote filter (Australian car where the filter is located above the engine, making for very messy oil changes), but I just couldn't get the TransDapt adapter to work with the steering box (RH drive car), so I ended-up going back to the factory 90* adapter, with all new seals and gaskets as shown in post #4.

Wish I still had that TransDapt adapter for you, but I sold it here to....someone, I forget.

Good luck!
 
Does anyone have a preference on the oil filter adapter for a small block LA motor. its a 360 and the adapter I got at @ ebay leaks badly. it's one of those flat washer style adapters. I'm gonna change the filter tomorrow and hope that takes care of it. I didn't exactly where it was coming from but my duddy says it definitely coming from between the block and the giant washer adapter thing. It lost a QUART in less than 30 seconds. I put the washer/plate adapter thing on after i broke in the cam and before I installed the engine in the car. It had a cast iron remote filter relocator housing on it when I broke the cam in, but it was dangling around and I didnt' like the idea of the two hoses possibly leaking when in the new engine compartment. So, I threw it away like an idiot. Now I can't seem to find one that works. Anyone have preference or know where I can get something that won't spew oil everywhere? I'm so frustrated to be this close after all of the set backs and now that thing is way down on the side of the motor and hard to reach after the motor is installed. I checked it very closely when i installed it. looked good to me - is it possible to over-torque the center threaded adapter tube that the oil filter goes onto? I really snugged it down good. Now I don't know what to think. any ideas/thoughts... Thanks

Different engines had different flat plates, make sure you have the proper plate for an LA style engine...

Mancini Racing #2402103 Engine Oil Filter Block Plate
 
Thanks for the link bro. It said "for all 318-360 chrysler engines" I'll order this one and try again. I thought maybe I overtightened the last one or something else I might've done wrong. It didn't come with any instructions. So, I bolted it down how I felt it'd be proper. It looked pretty straight forward/uncomplicated. Appreciate your help and the link very much. have a great day.
 
I ordered it today. God only knows how long this car would've taken to finish and cost me without everyone's help. I'm sure a lot of it is just from being old and doing everything alone, but this forum aside from a couple of mean people has been a great help. I appreciate everyone and hope to keep paying it forward. Thank you, David.
 
Thanks for the link bro. It said "for all 318-360 chrysler engines" I'll order this one and try again. I thought maybe I overtightened the last one or something else I might've done wrong. It didn't come with any instructions. So, I bolted it down how I felt it'd be proper. It looked pretty straight forward/uncomplicated. Appreciate your help and the link very much. have a great day.
Post a picture of the one that leaked so we can see what it was. Or at least tell us how many small holes it had in it.
 
I check like to check for interference from the block casting or adapter fitting to make sure the adapter sits squarely on it's pad, before also checking the gaskets for any interference.

I leave the gaskets out and lightly spin the adapter on the block to see it its not sitting on there squarely. The bolt contact surfaces also need to be checked for burrs etc. Once that's been checked, I place the gasket where it goes and ensure that it is not hanging up on an edge or something.

I've had to use a small burr to clearance burrs from the block pad slightly in the past.
 
I check like to check for interference from the block casting or adapter fitting to make sure the adapter sits squarely on it's pad, before also checking the gaskets for any interference.

I leave the gaskets out and lightly spin the adapter on the block to see it its not sitting on there squarely. The bolt contact surfaces also need to be checked for burrs etc. Once that's been checked, I place the gasket where it goes and ensure that it is not hanging up on an edge or something.

I've had to use a small burr to clearance burrs from the block pad slightly in the past.
My mopar guru buddy out here says a magnum and an LA block use different plates. This motor had a 340 intake on it when i bought it and I put M/T 318-360 valve covers on it. I put a LA oil pump in it. Could it be a magnum block with all that? It oils through the rocker bar too. It's sitting flat all around as far as I can tell anyway. I put all new gaskets again and a new oil filter as well hoping it wont leak the surface looked perfectly flat and clean to me. being the car now - it's hard to get a good look at it. I hate to pull the motor back again for something so simple. That mancinin website shows a 6 hole plate for a magnum and a 4 hole plate for an LA motor. What do you think? LOL I know that's a lot to lay at your doorstep but I appreciate your opinion. If I still had that LA remote adapter I'd happily put it back on. LOL

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Post a picture of the one that leaked so we can see what it was. Or at least tell us how many small holes it had in it.
thanks. As u can see, the gasket on theoil filter doesn't go around the outer edge of the plate. it kinda sits on that ridge toward the middle but it completely encircles all of the holes. Also, I didn't use any silicone against the block for this very reason... ya know because i didnt want to ever scrape it off in a scenario just like this. Basically, I second guessing everything now. should I use gasket sealer against the block? that mancini part is still on its way and i'd hate to scrape all off. BTW, the plate on my granite counter top is almost perfectly flat. say about 1 or 2 thousands of an inch variance.

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thanks. As u can see, the gasket on theoil filter doesn't go around the outer edge of the plate. it kinda sits on that ridge toward the middle but it completely encircles all of the holes. Also, I didn't use any silicone against the block for this very reason... ya know because i didnt want to ever scrape it off in a scenario just like this. Basically, I second guessing everything now. should I use gasket sealer against the block? that mancini part is still on its way and i'd hate to scrape all off. BTW, the plate on my granite counter top is almost perfectly flat. say about 1 or 2 thousands of an inch variance.

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The plate in your pictures is supposed to be the LA style since it has only four holes. Now you have to check the casting number on the side of the engine block. Your friend is correct; the plates are different for Magnum and LA.
 
Thanks, I'll do that. I don't understand a lot of Chrysler stuff. Like why a magnum plate has extra holes in it. I know these heads oil through the rocker bars and not through the pushrods. I know I put an LA style oil pump in it before I broke in the cam. The cam I bought was for a LA block. And again, I have no idea if cams are interchangeable. I already drilled some extra holes in the current plate and added a thin coat of "Ultra Black" to the new gasket this time and put it all back together. The mancini set is on it's way but I hope I don't need it or a magnum plate either. Why someone would put LA heads on a magnum block seems odd to me as well. I mean, don't magnum blocks use roller cams? I know I put a flat tappet cam in this motor. So, I think it must be an LA block...Does that make sense? I never thought I'd have so much trouble just changing from a 6 cyl to a small block. I got a perfectly good spare 440 for my satellite - I could've done that - but I thought a small block would be a lot easier to work on in this A body...Seems like everything I thought was simple is turning out wrong. LOL Thanks for the help man, I really appreciate it. Oh, yeah, are all magnum blocks roller cams? Is that true?
 
Thanks, I'll do that. I don't understand a lot of Chrysler stuff. Like why a magnum plate has extra holes in it. I know these heads oil through the rocker bars and not through the pushrods. I know I put an LA style oil pump in it before I broke in the cam. The cam I bought was for a LA block. And again, I have no idea if cams are interchangeable. I already drilled some extra holes in the current plate and added a thin coat of "Ultra Black" to the new gasket this time and put it all back together. The mancini set is on it's way but I hope I don't need it or a magnum plate either. Why someone would put LA heads on a magnum block seems odd to me as well. I mean, don't magnum blocks use roller cams? I know I put a flat tappet cam in this motor. So, I think it must be an LA block...Does that make sense? I never thought I'd have so much trouble just changing from a 6 cyl to a small block. I got a perfectly good spare 440 for my satellite - I could've done that - but I thought a small block would be a lot easier to work on in this A body...Seems like everything I thought was simple is turning out wrong. LOL Thanks for the help man, I really appreciate it. Oh, yeah, are all magnum blocks roller cams? Is that true?
Magnum plates had extra holes from the factory as one of the improvements over previous LA engines to increase oil flow through the oil filter. The Magnum blocks had the main bearing oiling holes enlarged a little as well as production improvements.

All Magnum blocks had hydraulic roller camshafts from the factory but they can accept a flat tappet camshaft and lifters with longer pushrods.

Early production Magnum blocks still had the LA oiling holes for the cylinder heads but were factory equipped with pushrod oiling through the lifters.

There is a wider variety of LA heads available than Magnum heads, so running LA heads on a Magnum block with appropriate oiling is a good way get a head with desired performance level at a lower cost, when done correctly.
 
Magnum plates had extra holes from the factory as one of the improvements over previous LA engines to increase oil flow through the oil filter. The Magnum blocks had the main bearing oiling holes enlarged a little as well as production improvements.

All Magnum blocks had hydraulic roller camshafts from the factory but they can accept a flat tappet camshaft and lifters with longer pushrods.

Early production Magnum blocks still had the LA oiling holes for the cylinder heads but were factory equipped with pushrod oiling through the lifters.

There is a wider variety of LA heads available than Magnum heads, so running LA heads on a Magnum block with appropriate oiling is a good way get a head with desired performance level at a lower cost, when done correctly.
Oh man, the Chrysler small block is a strange animal for sure. And this is my first small block chrysler. I rebuilt 5 big blocks and never had any trouble. I went through this small block but only changed the cam, but reused the pushrods. and I'm sure it had been rebuilt recently before I got it because it still that had dull sheen on the bearings and it had barely started to rub off. Cylinder walls still a lot cross hatch left on them. So, I guess it could still be a Magnum block. I reused everything every thing else including the pushrods as they all looked to be in very good condition. So, I still don't know for sure. I'm gonna let it sit for 24 hours and see if it leaks again. I wish I knew what the difference was between the magnum plate and a regular LA plate so I could measure it, or test it, or what ever. I have a need to know thing like that. Even if there's nothing I can do about it. This current plate looks to be a perfect fit. But I have nothing to compare it too. I do have another 360 motor here but still don't know if its really an LA or Magnum. Heck, it might be a 318 for all I know. The guy I got it from says it's a fresh rebuilt 360 LA motor. Then the day after I bought it, he calls me "outa the blue" and said "Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that motor has a really bad vibration in it". So, I really don't know what the heck is going on with that one either. Other than I cant trust anything he says after that. I never did see exactly where this motor was leaking from/but my buddy says it was the plate for sure. I know the outside of the filter was soaked w/ oil, and the header too. That header wrap will smoke for the next 50 years. LOL But it does have new oil pump, and I didn't use any silicone last time. Maybe that's the difference. I hope. I'll report back tomorrow (hopefully w/good news) and we'll see how it does. Appreciate all of you so much... Thank you
 
Check the casting number on the block. If it is a Magnum and has an LA flex plate or converter balance weight, that could be your vibration issue and would be a relatively easy fix.

Read post three in this thread. It is a decent explanation of why the oil filter plates are different.
Oil filter mounting????????
 
Thanks for the link bro. It said "for all 318-360 chrysler engines" I'll order this one and try again. I thought maybe I overtightened the last one or something else I might've done wrong. It didn't come with any instructions. So, I bolted it down how I felt it'd be proper. It looked pretty straight forward/uncomplicated. Appreciate your help and the link very much. have a great day.

They look similar, I had one once that didn't seal because it was for a different engine family... That's how I learned there were different plates and you had to get the right one...
 

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