So you want 2 go Big block...Read this first!

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Oh yeay Jim, you are also right on the fact that you can do the hole swap in a weekend, and still have time to drive it. The swap isn't hard. I had alot of people say that it is a pain in the a$$, and they would never do it again. I don't know what problems they came into. Its not really that hard at all, most of the time is spent finding the parts ( or building them in you r case) assemble is pretty easy.

Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
and that would be my fault?

Maybe I did get worked up on this thread, but there sure seamed like some ganging up on here. at least on this side it felt like it. And it sure bugs you when you are told that you are doing somthing wrong, when you take something that IS wrong, and make it right. doesn't make sence. and the fact that i was able to figure it out when everyone else was saying things that didn't make sence ( but prob would have if My car had the parts they were talking about)

and i was trying to make sure you guys weren't getting upset a couple ppages back, and that we were all on the same page. I have re read this thread alot, and there is alot of misscomunication I think.

anyways..about the panties...I'm comando :bootysha:

:)
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no no one is ganging up on ya. just disagreeing with some stuff you said. its all good. this place is good like that. you can disagree but still get along.
 
I have no hard feelings against you. Just trying to make my point just like your trying to make yours. We'll have to agree to disagree.

:cheers:
 
Well thanks guys, like I said, I love this site, I was just having a hard time with this post, and the debate I guess.

Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
Oh yeay Jim, you are also right on the fact that you can do the hole swap in a weekend, and still have time to drive it. The swap isn't hard. I had alot of people say that it is a pain in the a$$, and they would never do it again. I don't know what problems they came into. Its not really that hard at all, most of the time is spent finding the parts ( or building them in you r case) assemble is pretty easy.

Phil
Click to expand...
As long as you have all the stuff ready to go it is just a weekend job.
The thing that always takes me the longest is those stinking header bolts.
Every thing else just seems to fall into place.
What takes you guys the longest to do?
 
If you are using E body headers, I would say puting them in and out and finding where they rub and then taking them out and denting them in a bit. and then back in, and then back out.....etc etc. I used these headers cause they came with the car. Because of my money situation, I would have bought them anyways. i hate fenderwells. Just think they look ugly, and TTi's are high money.

Second would be the Header bolts.

Third would be bloting the Bell housing ball stud. only two blots, but I just hate it when you can only turn the bolt 1 32 of a turn each time.
 
I might be regretting this, but I thought I would try and see if I was missunderstanding people.

about the debate.

  1. where you guys saying that it CAN cost just as much to do a SB, as it does a BB swap?
  2. It Does cost as much no matter how you build it?
If you thought # 1, then I agree. It can cost just as much. I think if you were to rebuild EVERYTHING, it would cost about the same. Maybe a couple hundred more for the BB swap cause some parts are harder to find than for the SB swap

If you though # 2, I disagree completely. If you build it bare bones, without buying any rebuilt motor, and bought as much as you could used, then there is a big difference in costs. and that is what I was trying to prove...not #1
and did you think when I said a simular build I meant
  1. to comparing a Simular build by horse power rateing?
  2. Or simular build by bying the parts at the best prices you can.
If you thought # 1 I agree again, cause you will have to spend way more on the SB engine to meet the HP of the BB, hence the prices will equal out.
If you thought # 2, which is what I was meaning, I dissagree, and I think that if you bought a running engine with 4 brl, that it would cost quite a bit more to do it with a BB.

That is what I was trying to say.

so lets see if there is any miss understandings, or if we all still dissagree

:)

I'l make sure I take a pill this time.

Phil

:)
 
Phil,
With everything equal. Stock engines, no mods, just straight up swapping the engines, but both using headers.
I do think the BB would be slightly higher due to the price of the headers for the BB.
The trannies are identical except the cases, the rear would be the same, same for a radiator, conversion mounts should be very close in price, brake conversion the same, etc.
I looked the other day at the prices of the ProParts headers and they have gone up about $200 from 2 years ago. They are now over $600. I paid $450 for mine from the same vendor. Funny, but I paid $500 something back in the late 90's for the set I put in my Dart.
 
I was saying with ALL things being equal,Starting with a /6 car,7 1/4 and drums on all 4 corners,That the cost to build a sb or bb are roughly going to be the same.In order to have a good reliable car you are gonna need about the same parts.From radiator to rearends.Both will probably need intake-carb,a good set of brakes,and a solid rear.Because even a fair sb can kill a 7 1/4 in no time.And it may be different there but good sb are goin for about the same prices as a bb around these parts.Agreed the main difference is exhaust,Headers vs stock manifolds....Rebuild kits are not that far away in costs,etc....etc....
 
One unique instance would be restoring an original big block A-body (that`s been cannibalized) with the correct part numbers. The price of original bb A-body parts like exhaust manifolds, radiators, oil pans, clutch hardware, air cleaners, etc. are in the stratosphere. The good thing about this thread is that it stresses the fact that when installing a big block in an A-body, the car needs to be built as a package.
 
LOL...just as a side note,A buddy of mine built a 65 barracuda yrs back.He went with a mildly built 440 ..six pack lower end ..good stall converter and 4:56's and he was still running the 9 inch brakes and the single cylinder master cylinder LOL.WEEEEEEEE!!!!
 
mrtires24 said:
Well thanks guys, like I said, I love this site, I was just having a hard time with this post, and the debate I guess.

Phil
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Well boys, the cost of everything is going up, even our beloved Mopars!

The hemi duster has been finished since 1999 and is showing its age, It will need some body and paint work soon. The 68 Dart (440 will be installed) is in the process of being completed by Brother Mark in Findley, I have my sons Duster at a local body shop here in Pittsburgh, Its almost done ( trust me, its just getting a fluff job!, not a resto) and the newest addition, 1970 Duster with 24,000 original miles will be getting a BB (440) Now, I'm not a rich guy but I try to keep the cost's of the hobby down, my problem is I cant stop! I'm like a crack addict...... My wife is going to kill me! lol... I forgot to mention the 72 Duster I have....just in case i get bored! god I'm sick....

276.jpg


hemiduster.jpg


Vermillion025.jpg


gold duster.jpg
 
HemiMark, you`ve got me confused ???? You`re a Mark .....and your brother is a Mark too? Brother in law I guess? This isn`t like the "this is my brother Darrel and my other brother Darrel thing"? Lol! Doesn`t George Foreman have like 4 kids all named George? Anyway, nice group of cars you`ve got there 8)and I am also a recovering Mopar addict with 3 A-bodies. What can you say? It could be worse, we could truly be crack addicts, so this is totally benign!!
 
I'm getting ready to install a 383 auto in my A body. So far I'm into it at $400.00 w/a running motor/trani'.
I'll be way under the given price of several grand as noted in the beginning pages.
Once I get more into my build I'll post info. w/photos.
I'm one of those guys that has always had a big block car. The 340 stroker was cool, but the b/b will be even better.

Mark
 
Alaskan_Dart said:
I'm getting ready to install a 383 auto in my A body. So far I'm into it at $400.00 w/a running motor/trani'.
I'll be way under the given price of several grand as noted in the beginning pages.
Once I get more into my build I'll post info. w/photos.
I'm one of those guys that has always had a big block car. The 340 stroker was cool, but the b/b will be even better.

Mark
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make sure you include to mention any parts that you may allready have, as well as all that nickle and dimeing stuff.

Your off to a great start with a motor and trans for $400.

What does your car have allready? Frame conectors? Shortened drive shaft? Mounts? I ask cause you say you are a BB guy, just wondering if you are starting from scratch, or have a BB a body roller allready.

Like I said in My first post, It can be done cheaper. and for all you people in the USA, I envy the prices you can get. You guys can build a car way cheaper then us up north. it's amazing

Phil
 
Mopower71 said:
Phil,
With everything equal. Stock engines, no mods, just straight up swapping the engines, but both using headers.
I do think the BB would be slightly higher due to the price of the headers for the BB.
The trannies are identical except the cases, the rear would be the same, same for a radiator, conversion mounts should be very close in price, brake conversion the same, etc.
.
Click to expand...

This thread has been dead for a bit.

Lets see if I can keep my cool8)

i agree with you rpost to a point. the differenc that I see is that a $500 SB is completely different than a $500 BB/RB. AT least all that I see.
My point being you can buy a running 318 for one or two hundred dollars. I havn'e seen a running BB for Under $600 locally. and its a 400. If you spend $500 on a SB, you will prob end up with a 4 brl intake, a cam, and possibly some other goodies inside. A BB/RB would fetch up to $1500++ up here in that same condition. and that is what I meant by simular build...simular engine condition etc etc.

Headers would cost more. agreed. Though you can do it cheap.

Rear would be the same costs ( agreed )

Tranny would not cost the same. At least not here locally. Only one BB tranny that I know of around here for sale, and its $600. You can get a SB tranny for a couple hundred including kick down linkage and TC. With the BB your still guna have to track that down, and a TC too


a small block conversion could be really cheap if you bought a parts car that has a V8, and discs ( 4 dr dart) You will have almost everything you need

just look for the diff, headers, exhaust, and motor mounts ( conversions, and your set). You can't find a BB parts car for $500, at least not up here. maybe for $1000 C body, but your still guna have to buy A body discs etc.

all in all, I think there is a big difference in costs...$1000-$2500 when comparing a SB conversion to a BB conversion, depending on how you do it. Though alot of you have proven anything can be done for next to nothing.

Phil
 
This thread has been dormant a while but it`s great content brought it back around. It brings up another point, A LOT depends on the car that`s going to be the big block recipient. I`m an advocate of "build the car to go with the engine" and in some cases the donee car is pre-equipped with most everything you`ll need for the transfer of engines. For example my 67 Barracuda convertible is a 273 2 bbl car but was ordered from the factory with the HD police brakes, HD torsion bars, frt. sway bar, HD rear springs, and an 8.75 SG rear end. With a set of Schumacher mounts and headers ,a donor 440/727 would be an easy and safe swap that could be achieved quite affordably. My point here is, it all depends on what you start with. A slant 6 car will likely need everything whereas well equipped small block cars not as much.
 
You can still get a duster deuled up here from the headers back with flowmasters, 2 1/2" pipe out the back for $350 to $400 bucks. The flowmasters are $160 of it.

I agree longgone (and everybody) I wouldn't think about hotroding say a dart without totaly going with the best brakes and suspension I can come up with and everything else that needs any improvement to make the car perform safely.
 
attachment.php


That's the exact same color as my Duster! Although now I'm glad I didn't paint my wheels body color... Ugh...
 
ok here are some pics of the problems im having putting my 440 in my duster.if any one has any idea on what i can do to fixs this problem please let me know

mount problems 002a.jpg


mount problems 003a.jpg
 
1hry440duster said:
ok here are some pics of the problems im having putting my 440 in my duster.if any one has any idea on what i can do to fixs this problem please let me know
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What motor mount is that? it looks home made. nothing wrong with it being home made if it is. it doesn't look like a schumacher mount.

all I see wrong is that the oil pump is still touching the motor mount pad on the K member, and that there is a small gap between the motor mount and the pad on the K mamber.

take a die ginder to the motor mount pad to take of some more. just do it a little bit at a time. You should use a torque strap when modifieing the K member like that ( I still neeed one for my car)

as far as the motor mount not sitting flush on the K member pad, it should be ok once you bolt it down ( it it was a rubber mount, but it looks like you have a steal box mount. try jacking up the passenger side of the engine. it may shift the drivers side down so that it sits flush.

I hope this is what you are looking for...if not, just ask away, someone will know.

Phil
 
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