Squarring the Rear-End after Spring Install?

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eekvonzipper

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So, I got 002 and 003 SS Springs for a Stock '65 Barracuda...
I figured I'd Mount them Tight Front and Back and do the U-Bolt's last.
How can I make sure that I'm Square in there before I torque everything down?
I'd hate to do a Donut backing it out of the garage before I get a chance to see the
Height difference they made.
Thanks to All and Apologies for Newb Question.
-eric

Springs.jpg
 
I'm not sure I understand. Are you asking how to get the rear end "straight"? The locating pins on the springs take care of that.
 
That's It huh? Okay. I figured it would be more complicated... Like having to measure between the This' and Thats' to make sure... Thanx Triple R!
 
That's It huh? Okay. I figured it would be more complicated... Like having to measure between the This' and Thats' to make sure... Thanx Triple R!

Nope, not unless you want to see if the car's been hit.
 
If you measured the distance from the front bolt hole to the locating pin in the center of both springs and the distance is the same then your off to a good start.
If the car is dog tracking then you need to crawl underneath and start measuring from the reference holes in the cross member or body to find out what is off.
You need a chassis diagram for those numbers.
 
I'm not sure I understand. Are you asking how to get the rear end "straight"? The locating pins on the springs take care of that.

I leave the front spring eyelet slightly loose, tighten the u-bolt to spec lower the weight of the car on the springs and finally tighten the front spring bolt.

Make sure to re-torque the u-bolts a couple times after the first few miles and again after about 50 & 100 miles. I also always use anti-seize sparingly on the u-bolts, nuts and thick washers; and slather synthetic disc brake grease on all the bushings including the shock bushings. It won't attack rubber or plastic and contains lots of good slippery stuff that is very resistant to washout. It also reduces sticktion and squeaks.
 
Most are never square from the factory. That is why guys have to hold them straight doing a burnout, X the rear by measuring from the rear of the front frame to the locating pin on the spring. Shim the short side back by adding the correct made spacer to the front of the front spring hanger. There are some cases where the studs have to be made longer, . Fine adjustments may have to be made to make the car launch straight. The most I have seen that had to be added over the years is 1/2 inch. Always do this before installing a inboard kit. Once you weld the boxes in you are committed to the location you chose. In this case measure three times weld once.
 
Most are never square from the factory. That is why guys have to hold them straight doing a burnout, X the rear by measuring from the rear of the front frame to the locating pin on the spring. Shim the short side back by adding the correct made spacer to the front of the front spring hanger. There are some cases where the studs have to be made longer, . Fine adjustments may have to be made to make the car launch straight. The most I have seen that had to be added over the years is 1/2 inch. Always do this before installing a inboard kit. Once you weld the boxes in you are committed to the location you chose. In this case measure three times weld once.
THIS------------I've seen documentation on this perhaps the chassis book, don't remember.
 
THIS------------I've seen documentation on this perhaps the chassis book, don't remember.
That Chassis manual by DC was my Bible back in the day. I have several still today. I offered them on this site a while back when I was sick. My son took some of them for himself. The rest are here in a box somewhere. My wife got tied of moving them after I brought some in for pictures to sell. No one wanted to buy them all. They just wanted to pick what they wanted. So I never sold any. Then I got real sick. Now who knows what box they are in.

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I snug the front hangers,rear hangers,and u-bolts.
Lower the car to the ground with all weight on it, and then torque to spec.
Be ready for the *** end to be way in the air, with those springs.
 
Yes the one side will sit very high compared to the other. I ended up going with two of the lower arched springs.
 
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