Srt-68 Barracuda

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Is that the sound deadener sold from www.Lobucrod.com ??


"Low-E brand insulation is available here in 4' x 10', 4' x 50' and 4' by 120' rolls. Low-E is manufactured using a 1/4" closed-cell polyethylene foam core with scrim-reinforced, double-sided 99% pure polished aluminum facings. (This is not the foiled bubble wrap sold at hardware stores)."
 
Foiled bubble wrap from Lowe's. For some reason Home Depot does not carry it. As for it's performance, it has given me the same result as the most expensive Dynamat or whatever else is out there. You can do the whole car for $30. Scientifically, a sound wave machine will show better results with Dynamat, and makes for a nice graph to show you why you should spend hundreds of dollars. You can't hear or feel what they're talking about. So save your money.

If, on the other hand, you're building a 10,000 watt stereo system for competition you would be better served with the high dollar stuff. This does not apply to 99.99% of us.
 
5.7Dart said:
Foiled bubble wrap from Lowe's... As for it's performance, it has given me the same result as the most expensive Dynamat or whatever else is out there... So save your money.
Click to expand...

Now that's the ticket! Couple of questions:
1. How to adhere
2. Does it pop under foot in the wheelwells?


Nice craftsmanship on the car!


Thanks! Jim
 
Alrighty then. I just got back from lowes with a 2x25 foot roll of the stuff, and abig can of 77 adhesive. I'll fool around with it tomorrow. Any hints or tips for doing the inside of the doors and kick panels?
 
Measure and cut everything first. Then spray a medium coat of 77 on the metal. Place and press. If you goof, you can lift and replace without butchering it. If you overlap, don't sweat, just cut down the middle of the overlap with a razor. Overlap will show through yer carpet, so keep it smooth. This stuff is easy to work with. You can cut small pieces to fill any gaps. Again, keep it smooth.
 
The stuff from Lows works great. I used it in my 68 rag top cuda. Like 5.7 said just cut it out first. When I did mine I would spray the metal with the adhesive and the bubble wrap and put it in. Car is super quiet even for a rag top and the floor stays cool on long runs.
 
Thanks for the tips. Last week I almost ordered $300 worth of raam mat, but $40 for something that works almost as well, and won't smell like asphalt...super!

Thanks for the tips - I'll let you know how it works.

Jim
 
Not to knock what you are using but it is not the same stuff as hush/dyna mat. The sound deadening quality is not the same nor is the ability to block the heat as well. I looked at that product as well.....cool no doubt.

That being said for $45.00 its a great alternative and I am actually going to supplement my hush mat with something like this....foil on one side and thick 1/2" felt on the other. Also saving $300.00 for something you really need is just smart economics.

As far as putting it in the doors the only caveat I see is that there is a real and dangerous possibility of water getting behind the product and getting caught thus, over time causing rust issues later.....I have seen it and that is why I chose to use spray undercoating in the doors vs. stick on....just to be safe.

Just an observation.

Mop
 
Ive seen many doors with dynamat on them, aslong as it is rolled on properly, there shouldnt be any areas that water gets in.

and if you are really anal... Fold the ends over and seal with mastic or sikaflex.
 
Just found this thread. build looks great

You should add a thread in the tech section on how to make the 5.7l or 6.1l harness work in an abody.
of course after you are done with this one.
 
There is a channel going across the bottom of the door. Plastic (is what the factory used) or something that will not absorb water has to go into that channel the entire length of the door or it WILL leak. The quarters have the same channel. If not the door panels will get nice and wet. The plastic serves as a flashing to keep the water out of the inside of the car.
 
5.7Dart said:
Here's a pic of the Dart. DasFish will be the same. Where are they? Hide them flush--no reason for them to stick out.
Click to expand...
Sorry I took so long to respond. Them being flush mount, are the door panels perforated to let the sound through, or do the grills mount under the door panel and you just cut out a hole?

Thanks again...

j
 
I say leave any holes at the bottom of the door open to allow water to pass through the opening between the door and the sill.


That is how you avert water retention.

Srt5.7 is using product that works well in certain situations...floor ceiling, firewall inside.

I only question the doors.

My opinion only and it does not matter.

Mop
 
Like I said...money spent where you need it.

I am not dising the product and isn't that the DART?
 
Yes, that is the Dart.

Knock it off with the "my opinion does'nt matter" crap. Your opinion is highly valued to me and I'm sure to a lot of other visitors to this site.

So keep 'em flowin'. How in the hell are we supposed to learn anything without you chiming in? Give us your dollar's worth anytime.:sign3:
 
they is a guy advertises on E Bay, he will redo a wiring harness from the donor vehicle that you get your 5.7 or a magnum engine from for 199.00 bucks,,,you need a harness to send to hin it is not a new harness for 199.00

also street and performance does it,,but some one else really does it for him i believe,,i dont have a price for his wiring conversion
 
Both of those cars are really cool and they sound great. Good work man
 
Anybody out there know anything about the NAG1 unit? It doesn't know what to do at this point, and it's pissing me off. It will move and then it won't.

Back to body work for the time being. Piss.
 
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