Steering wheel repair started, wish me luck

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Nite Moves

Nite Moves

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My wife was great and got me a epxoy pkg yesterday so i had something to do.......Ive been in crap since my back went out..doing to much. anyway, i started with a dremel cleaned up the inside cracks, took some of my small files and cleaned up some more areas. In the pics you will see some good seperation in spots.........I hope this works. Really love the wheel. I have to wait until tommorow now 24hr set up time. Will post back then. Thanks BTW not much odour from the epoxy
 

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Thats the same wheel i have ED there worth some cash did ya know that good luck and don't:blob: sniff to much.
 
Cool Edd this is a useful thread, subscribed! Hope you're back feels better, meanwhile good to have something to keep your mind off it.
 
goldfish65 said:
Cool Edd this is a useful thread, subscribed! Hope you're back feels better, meanwhile good to have something to keep your mind off it.
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Im absolutely going crazy. Being a busy body and a wife who checked the whole house over before work making sure i rest.......:protest: F*&%K this is nutz.I will get in big dewdew if i do anything but rest............Sorry ranting. Will post up tommorow with some new pics..........Thanks all
 
Snake said:
Thats the same wheel i have ED there worth some cash did ya know that good luck and don't:blob: sniff to much.
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No sniffing allowed..besides i have alot of good drugs for me back..LOL. Im in need of the horn cap. Any idea what it looks like? A pic of yours maybe? Thanks Snake
 
There are 2 different types of wheels, 68/69 amd 70. The difference between the 2 is the horn pad retainer where it sits over the spokes. The 70 horn pad has a black plastic adapter on the bottom of the horn pad retainer, the 68/69 does not have the black plastic adapter.

Check out www.plumbeeper.com or give Dave a shout. He has a few pix of the parts ya need. I bought stuff from him and he does excellent work restoring woodgrain and rimblow steering wheels.
 
70 horn pad asm w/the plastic adapter and the 68/69 without the adapter
 

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I am doing the same thing on a wheel for my old non-mopar truck! I am using almost the same stuff, but the marine version, pc11 I think. So far so good, this stuff is really strong. Any idea of what type of paint you will be using? I don't know what would be durable, hard, and not have a sticky type feel.
 
For best results fillers should be applied to a roughed surface. This provides a tooth to help prevent seperation. Everything I've read about steering wheel repair states open the break into a V shape to increase the mating surface area. Yes that expands the width of the repaired area too so it looks like \_/
This profile would work as well but not as easy to create (_).
I have to imagine it would open again in the same place some day regardless how it is done. Nothing lasts forever. Good luck with it.
 
RedFish said:
For best results fillers should be applied to a roughed surface. This provides a tooth to help prevent seperation. Everything I've read about steering wheel repair states open the break into a V shape to increase the mating surface area. Yes that expands the width of the repaired area too so it looks like \_/
This profile would work as well but not as easy to create (_).
I have to imagine it would open again in the same place some day regardless how it is done. Nothing lasts forever. Good luck with it.
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I imagine your right with it happening again. Its time consuming but does save $$ doing it yourself. I did not see the marine grade..i was told it hasnt been in Canada for that long. Totally recommended though. As for paint not sure.........
 
Stacy David repaired a steering wheel on Gearz a couple of years ago. The video might be onm his website. Turned out like new.
 
you can google a steering wheel fix. there are about 4 that pop right up. I watched the Australian one, it was pretty cool and made me decide to do mine. mine came out great and was broken into 2 or 3 pieces at the rim. I used bulldog adhesion promoter for the first coat or 2. then I shot Epoxy from the lock down coat , couple of coats Hi-build primer to hide my screwups and leave enough on there to sand smooth. then Base coat/clearcoat in the contrasting color of my car. nice slick finish.

if done right it'll last a long time since the plastic has already shrunk as much as it's going to (unless it just happened) and if you undercut it or V it to give the epoxy a place to bite into the plastic it'll be as sturdy as before. I have had a reapired wheel on the 65 plymouth for over 8 years and the 65's a beast. it hasn't broke out yet


before
View attachment DSCF3013.JPG
after
View attachment DSCF3011.JPG
 
Well i started to sand it down today. I got to admitt not to bad at all. Seems to sand well.I have a few big gaps as you seen in my first pics....Thats not my issue. I have alot of spider type cracks everywhere. They are a pain in the ***..LOL. I got er down good just need to touch it up some with some more epoxy..a couple low spots..........do a final sand and get it ready for paint........hope these pics help. The best i can do. Cant do anything more today on it. Got this great big Knot in my lower back....Dam thing:protest::drinkers: going to need more medicine:D
 

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Nite Moves said:
Well i started to sand it down today. I got to admitt not to bad at all. Seems to sand well.I have a few big gaps as you seen in my first pics....Thats not my issue. I have alot of spider type cracks everywhere. They are a pain in the ***..LOL. I got er down good just need to touch it up some with some more epoxy..a couple low spots..........do a final sand and get it ready for paint........hope these pics help. The best i can do. Cant do anything more today on it. Got this great big Knot in my lower back....Dam thing:protest::drinkers: going to need more medicine:D
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* Looks good! Maybe I should have kept it! lol.. Make sure you post pic's when it's painted!=D>
 
Using a good polyester filler primer will help get rid of a lot of the finer cracks. I've done a few different wheels for people over the years.
 
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