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All of my Dynomation models consistantly peak the Hp rpm too early.
340 should peak around 5200 rpm.
Giving the model a higher flow intake and carb moves it up a little, but what they mean by high flow 2 plane intake is something like an RPM.

I've done models with my own engines and I get the same thing. Power peaks too early (and too much torque). I can't compare direct because my real world numbers are from chassis dyno and drag strip rather than an engine dyno.
 
I think in Anders case, it’s likely also compounded by the American politics we sometimes discuss.

However, he hasn’t really been anywhere on the site so I suspect it’s more than that that’s keeping him away.
Last time I spoke with Anders, a couple months back now, he was dealing with a lot of stuff going on in his personal and professional life. He even stated he'd be unable to be on here much for a while until things settled.
 
Ok, If I decided to use these springs,Hotchkis 24385: Sport Leaf Springs 1967-76 Dodge A-Body | JEGS and want dont want to lower one inch, could I use a one inch block to raise it, without undo downsides?
No. Blocks lower the hieght. And you may have a small block in the form of a pinion angle wedge thingy...
Find out what the free arch is from Hotchkis. Then we can make a better guess whether its going to lower the rear ride based on the estimated rear weight.
How 'bout the tire size? Is it close to stock in rolling radius? If its a little taller, then this might all iron out.
 
Tim, the crude way to measure the current spring rates is to compress them with a known weight and measure the distance.
If they are off the car, we do this by standing on them. It's a little tricky doing it by yourself.
I know its thrown a few people, so to speak.
:lol:
 
Tim, the crude way to measure the current spring rates is to compress them with a known weight and measure the distance.
If they are off the car, we do this by standing on them. It's a little tricky doing it by yourself.
I know its thrown a few people, so to speak.
:lol:
I know, and I have taken it under advisement. Might go that way:thumbsup:
 
E70-14 is approximately 25.7" so the body with your new combo will sit a little higher than stock.
Sure, but that has nothing to do with how the wheels sit in the wheel openings. Also these springs are far too soft for the front torsion bars he just bought.
 

Did you guys notice the brackets in that Hotchkis kit?
I bet that's what is going on.
They move the front spring eye up to lower the car.
That adds anti-squat and lowers the car.
In addition they also have the spring eye itself centered on the main leaf.
 
Let define the design requirements first..

Specs:

High HP and torque engine with aluminum heads reducing front weight
Convertible with more weight towards the rear
1.08” front torsion bars

Owner wants the following:

Balanced handling that is crisp, responsive and predictable
Usage: 90% street, 10% Road course
Controlled handling during launch and straight line acceleration under heavy power

Now....build the rest of the suspension to meet the requirements
 
Let define the design requirements first..

Specs:

High HP and torque engine with aluminum heads reducing front weight
Convertible with more weight towards the rear
1.08” front torsion bars

Owner wants the following:

Balanced handling that is crisp, responsive and predictable
Usage: 90% street, 10% Road course
Controlled handling during launch and straight line acceleration under heavy power

Now....build the rest of the suspension to meet the requirements
Those are the correct parameters. Thanks.
 
Peak HP at 5000 rpm and a long slow curve doesn’t impress me much, even with the early torque. I’d rather see the peak a bit lower in rpm and a better rise earlier for the street.
Teens don't have much but torque at streetable rpm. That's about the best you can get with a stock converter.
 
Tim, what makes you think this is the correct choice. I’d like to know your logic.

I have not decided that..

F916B198-F901-432B-B3FE-947F6BF69542.jpeg
 
Teens don't have much but torque at streetable rpm. That's about the best you can get with a stock converter.
Have you looked at different cams on your dyno program? I’m also not sure I understand where the converter bit is coming from. There isn’t enough power out of that engine to need a higher stall.
 
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