Swap k-frame without dropping engine?

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b5cuda

b5cuda

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Hey guys,
Looking for advice here. I installed ’73 style front disc’s on my ’69 Barracuda small block car a few years back. But the ’73 spindles interfere with the ’69 sway bar tabs on the LCA and reduce my turning radius. I cut the extra threads off the spindle bolts and made them flush, but they still interfere. Recently I found a good ’73 style k-frame, LCA’s, and sway bar and would like to finish the conversion but it looks like a lot of work on a running car. Just wondering – is there an easy way to swap the K (and LCA’s and sway bar) without dropping the engine? I suppose the other option is to buy an aftermarket swaybar that doesn’t use the factory tabs and just cut them off, but I’m a little reluctant to do that to a good set. Any thoughts?
Bill
 
Get a shock tower engine support for a front wheel driver. It goes on the shock tower or hood pinch area and then chain the motor from the top then you can pull the whole front end out.
 
Go get a 6' 4X4. Cut it to length. It'll do the same thing way cheaper.
 
I would leave the engine in the car. I held my 273 above the K-frame while I painted (motor mounts off). I used 1/2"D rods in the big holes in the bottom of the block, but I recall they are only on the driver's side.

As mentioned, you can support the engine from a beam across the top. I have seen people use a 4x4 cut to fit across the top of the inner fenders. Maybe add some cross pieces to spread the force and not crimp the metal. If you have an engine lift, that is simplest. You can also support the engine from the oil pan on a wide board to spread the weight, but jam wood on the sides to the inner fender so the engine doesn't tilt over. The engine isn't as heavy as some imagine and I have heard of 4 big guys pulling one out by hand.
 
Thanks guys, sounds like a good option. I like the idea of not using an engine hoist. Just wondering how that works... I'm guessing the crossbar/beam rests across the inner fenders, how do you keep it from denting the sheet metal, and where do you connect the chain to the engine?
 
Cool - you answered my questions before I got done asking!
 
i left the motor mount on the motor and and looped chain thru it also my heads are off so little bit more roomy , also my mounts are solid spool type , not sure how it would work with the biscuit type
 
put the car safely on jack stands and use a cherry picker to support the engine
 
did that very thing to my car when i rebuilt front end and changed brakes and re-enforced my k-member.
really easy, i supported my motor from below; simple strong blocks with a small footprint... you need to have enough room for your floor jack.
unbolt your motormounts, use floorjack with 2x6 wood block placed towards front of pan to lift motor slightly, prop the motor under the rear of oil pan with blocks that don't take up much space (i used a piece of 6x6 on end with thinner pieces of wood on top of that to get the right height), lower the motor onto the blocks but not so low that the the motor mounts are making contact, pull the jack out and use it to drop your k-frame. if the blocks you use are stable you can leave it in place indefinitely and get your work done.
I used all wooden blocks- no damage!
good luck! -pauly
 
Turn the bolts around that are hitting. Also, if the caliper is hitting the sway bar shorten the end links. If you're set on swapping the whole thing support the engine from the bottom with a large jack stand and a piece of plywood or a scissor jack with the plywood.
 
I had the same problem with my 1967 Barracuda when I swapped out the original drum brakes to disc from a 1973 Duster. I had clearance problems with the brake caliper hitting the sway bar links. I swapped the spindles to the opposite side which allowed me to move the caliper to the "back" of the front wheel and away from the sway bar. It worked perfectly and I didn't have to swap anything else.
 
piece of cake...

just slide an engine hoist in from the side... i pulled the stock k-frame then installed the alter-k like this.. no issues. made things easy..

alterK017.jpg


alterK031.jpg


alterK036.jpg


alterK084.jpg
 
Hey everyone, sure appreciate the tips and pictures - great help!

On my car the (1973) spindle bolt hits the (1969) sway bar tab on the LCA's - didn't matter whether calipers were front hung or rear (tried both). No interference between endlinks or swaybar either - just tab to spindle bolt/nut. I'm guessing I lost at least 10-15% of my turn radius, there are times I miss that.

Besides recouping the full turning radius, I'm also wanting to swap out the UCA's and upgrde to heavier tie-rods. Currently my car has a pair of CAP tubular UCA's, ever since a couple of guys had those fail I've been thinking I should pull them. I know I don't have to drop the K to do this things but at that point I'm already about half way there so thinking I may as well get-r-done! Thanks again for the great support!
 
Follow-up: decided to go with braces on the inner fender wells; using 4X4's and 2X4's to make a frame and nylon straps to secure the engine. I can send a pic if anyone wants. I think it worked out real well: didn't have to unhook the engine or trans, didn't have a jack underneath the car to get in the way, and it left no marks on the inner fenders. I'm sure the other options work also but this route was best for me. Thanks for all the advice!
Bill
 
Take the spindle bolt out and turn it around. You can also grind some the tab off where it hits.
 
In my opinion, The upper shock mounts and inner fenders are not strong enough to support the weigh of the engine.
 
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