The friendly drag comp rules

[rumblefish360]

Good title. Though they will be on going results. LOL!
Once the weather breaks and people start running, there will have to be a MOD contact for a possible sticky? Just to make it easier to find, follow, post & read.
Maybe, maybe not....

 

[540Valiant]

The only mod I have ever done to a auto trans is instal the MP shift improved with a deep pan and extra cooler. I did learn how to adjust the shift points a little bit as well as the internal line pressure. I did manage to get a snappy shift from it. A little slow by today's standards of quick shifting.

August past, I purchased my first high stall converter.:blob:
A 2500 from Summit. (Not really looking for a lot with this mind you, just some extra stall.)
It is behind a 2000, 5.9 salvaged from my daughters wrecked Durango & installed in my '79 Magnum. I'm awaiting spring to get & instal a cam. The engine also has a RPM and 650 Thunder with Hooker Super Comp headers, 2-1/2 exhaust. 2.55's on 245/60/15's.

This car could qualify easy for the fun.

The car was $500
Carb was a FABO special
Intake, headers, mufflers are new from Summit
The engine was free.
The trans already has a trans go in it.
The converter was a whopping $200.

Minus brake line issues, it's ready to run. Hum, maybe I shouldet my son in law run the Duster and I'll run my Magnum instead.... :violent1:

Hey it was not my intention to stir anything up with the manual valvebody! My apologies. If you can install a shift kit, you can install a manual valve body. It has positive shifts and completely does away with the kickdown linkage. Pull the old valvebody, install new one! That's it! No automatic features! Whatever gear your in, your in!

 

[AlV]

The field is up to 35 wild and crazy Cheapo speed freaks, er. Competitors.

1973_Scamp, 318willrun, 340, 440outlawdart, 89on35s, Abodybomber, alcronk, BB4-speed, beebeeri000, BWDart, Cazbah362, CichliDart, Dartnut, derrangedgadgeteer, halifaxhops, hustonr123, Jaime97, jeepers007, jgiljum, justme, Lead foot, metallidart, mikesdart, Mopar to ya, mopar4, ohiocowboy1277, pishta, RaniDart70, Robbie2734, rumblefish360, RustyRatRod, thesiren74, tqfastfish, TXDart, yeah

The FABO Friendly Drag competition​

What is this?

This is a Competition for fun with no prize money, just bragging rights. This is your chance to be a show off and say I told ya so!. This group wants to reach engage "newbies" to the Hobby in a FUN, Friendly way and show what can be accomplished with bare bones Budget minded type builds.

Who is it for?

This is a friendly competition open to everyone but especially newcomers to the hobby.

How does it work?

It relies on the "Honor system." That should be easy, right? Just remember your actually helping your MoPar family out when you DON'T LIE! Your entry should be done as "CHEAPLY AS POSSIBLE!" THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. SHOW OFF YOUR SCROOGE!!!!! Show the world what a cheap S.O.B. you are! Do your best to keep costs down where ever possible, use what you have laying around, get in trade, or find used. It's okay if you have to buy new Just keep in mind this is a low cost budget minded competition.

New parts carry the price. So, if you can get used headers, great. If not, new ones are not a shame item or expenditure. Building your own exhaust is "Awesome hero work" while dropping $700 on a tti exhaust is "Hall of Shame". Also, The extra cost for slowing down or safety is understandable and should not be considered in the build cost

Once your build is complete Race your local track and report back!

Most IMPORTANTLY, Have fun!

Requirements:

From top to bottom, seems like a good place to start; The car should also be street worthy.

Carb:
* A single 4bbl. to keep it simple and cheap. (Stock and stock replacement carbs are acceptable).
* There is no limiting PSI rule for carbs or fuel injection.

In example; Edelbrock carbs, basic Holley carbs. 4160/4150 & Avengers. Rebuilt TQ's, QJ's No Pro built or after market carbs like AED. Modify it yourself and be a good fella, start a thread and show us how! Let's see this baby on your bench being done. And so do the new guys!​

Fuel:
* The octane requirement is pump gas that you get at your local gas station and available everywhere. For some it is 91 octane, others, 93 octane.
* If 100 octane is available to you, realize that it is not readily available to everyone else and not the normal nation wide normal high octane and therefore not good to use.

Intake:
* Any 4bbl. will do. Mods? Same as above.
* Scoop, anything goes
* Air cleaner; Anything goes.

Heads:
* Run the heads the car came with if you can, or if you don't have the heads it came with it should be an OE head.
* Swapping heads is OK. IE: LA for Magnum heads
* Stock or replacement style valves
* NO porting or die grinder work
* Any valve job is OK
* "Back-cutting" valves OK
* Mill the head until your happy, or have a door stop from going too far!
* Stock rocker arms are preferred, but, open for discussion.

Camshaft:
* Whatever you shove in there! LOL! (Roller cams aren't cheap, but they can be used.)

Exhaust:
* Whatever you have CHEAP! Manifolds, or headers!

Ignition:
* Any *NO electric water and fuel pumps UNLESS you swapped in a Magnum engine (Which has no provision for a mechanical pump) or if it's the only way to make your build work.

Trans:
* Manual, scatter shield OK
* Single disc clutch
* OE trans 3 or 4 speed
* Auto; No Manual valve bodies or trans brakes
* Shift kits, deep trans pan, extra cooling, high stall converters OK

Rear end:
* Any OE rear,
* Any gear
* Swap for sure grips & bigger rear, OK, (if you wanna be a one leg warrior and hero, go for it.)

Suspension:
* OE and Cal Tracs

Body:
* Any hood scoop will do.
* Remove and replace what you want/need to. Fiberglass parts are the norm right?!?!?
* No Lexan

Interior;
* Full street like. Not gutted to high heaven.
* You could remove the back and passenger seat.

 

[rumblefish360]

Hey it was not my intention to stir anything up with the manual valvebody! My apologies. If you can install a shift kit, you can install a manual valve body. It has positive shifts and completely does away with the kickdown linkage. Pull the old valvebody, install new one! That's it! No automatic features! Whatever gear your in, your in!

Ahhhh, it's all right. Stir it up.

But do tell me. (Now asking a second time)
Since I have very little automatic transmission experience, how do you instal a manual valve body?
Can you instal a shift kit with it?
Can you leave the shift kit out?
Is it simple?
How do I determin a good valve body from a bad one?
Can they go bad?

FYI, I tried to taylor the rules around a few words.

Easy
Basic
Bolt on
And what you would see as typical upgrades to street cars by absolutely new guys doing general hot rod work/parts to there cars. How many people you see in the street driving there pleasure car or weekend hot rod around with manual valve bodies that are new to this?

 

[70aarcuda]

Ahhhh, it's all right. Stir it up.

But do tell me. (Now asking a second time)
Since I have very little automatic transmission experience, how do you instal a manual valve body?
Can you instal a shift kit with it?
Can you leave the shift kit out?
Is it simple?
How do I determin a good valve body from a bad one?
Can they go bad?

FYI, I tried to taylor the rules around a few words.

Easy
Basic
Bolt on
And what you would see as typical upgrades to street cars by absolutely new guys doing general hot rod work/parts to there cars. How many people you see in the street driving there pleasure car or weekend hot rod around with manual valve bodies that are new to this?

drain the pan...
remove trans kickdown linkage....need to remove shifter arm on trans...

remove pan...can loosen neutral safety switch if you want to

remove 11 bolts that hold valve body in...watch out for accumulator spring falling out..

you might have to turn driveshaft a bit to help release parking paw...

install manual valve body...decide if you are going to reinstall accumulator spring or blocking rod...again..might need to turn drive shaft a bit to get parking paw in ...

tighten the 11 bolts...

put filter and pan back on...but shifter selector are back on...hook up shift linkage...no kickdown needed...

fill trans...

manual valve body....put it in 1st..stay in first...no automatic features..YOU shift into 2nd and 3rd...no automatic down shift.....manual downshifting by you ...if you want too...


no shift kit needed with manual valve body as it has been modified...

probably missed a step or so....sure some one update this....not that hard to do..

 

[540Valiant]

drain the pan...
remove trans kickdown linkage....need to remove shifter arm on trans...

remove pan...can loosen neutral safety switch if you want to

remove 11 bolts that hold valve body in...watch out for accumulator spring falling out..

you might have to turn driveshaft a bit to help release parking paw...

install manual valve body...decide if you are going to reinstall accumulator spring or blocking rod...again..might need to turn drive shaft a bit to get parking paw in ...

tighten the 11 bolts...

put filter and pan back on...but shifter selector are back on...hook up shift linkage...no kickdown needed...

fill trans...

manual valve body....put it in 1st..stay in first...no automatic features..YOU shift into 2nd and 3rd...no automatic down shift.....manual downshifting by you ...if you want too...


no shift kit needed with manual valve body as it has been modified...

probably missed a step or so....sure some one update this....not that hard to do..

That was on point! Have you done this once or twice? Just kidding!
The advantages are you shift when you want to shift, but no clutch! Very firm shift! They are available in forward or reverse pattern. Rumble, you said you installed a shift kit, you pulled the valve body to do that, all you do is keep the old one and install the new one. I can't wait to see the cars and times that come from this! Best of luck to everyone involved!

 

[540Valiant]

Ahhhh, it's all right. Stir it up.

But do tell me. (Now asking a second time)
Since I have very little automatic transmission experience, how do you instal a manual valve body?
Can you instal a shift kit with it?
Can you leave the shift kit out?
Is it simple?
How do I determin a good valve body from a bad one?
Can they go bad?

FYI, I tried to taylor the rules around a few words.

Easy
Basic
Bolt on
And what you would see as typical upgrades to street cars by absolutely new guys doing general hot rod work/parts to there cars. How many people you see in the street driving there pleasure car or weekend hot rod around with manual valve bodies that are new to this?

The rules are perfect! My first automatic car was a 71 340 Duster. I read all the Car ragiznes, and I stalling a shift kit, was on the same list as installing an aluminum intake, or a set of headers! But, much easier then installing g a clutch. I love manual transmission cars. The way I seen it back then was, if I have to have an automatic, i'm going to make it manual shift. So, I order a Cheetah reverse manual. I had installed many a B&M shift kit at the time, but I thought this is the cats ***! I hope I can install this. I open the box, and it's a complete valvebody. I pulled the old one, and installed the new one, (per 70aar's) very accurate instructions. When I got done I thought I missed something, had to recheck my dumbass. Lol. And I get rid of that kick down linkage.:cheers:. It shifts very hard, and right now. It's not for everybody, because some people WANT an automatic. If that's the case, install a shift kit. I hope 70aar's install instructions along with this, help clarify the Bolton part of the manual valvebody!

 

[540Valiant]

Ahhhh, it's all right. Stir it up.

But do tell me. (Now asking a second time)
Since I have very little automatic transmission experience, how do you instal a manual valve body?
Can you instal a shift kit with it?
Can you leave the shift kit out?
Is it simple?
How do I determin a good valve body from a bad one?
Can they go bad?

FYI, I tried to taylor the rules around a few words.

Easy
Basic
Bolt on
And what you would see as typical upgrades to street cars by absolutely new guys doing general hot rod work/parts to there cars. How many people you see in the street driving there pleasure car or weekend hot rod around with manual valve bodies that are new to this?

The rules are perfect! My first automatic car was a 71 340 Demon. I read all the Car ragiznes, and I stalling a shift kit, was on the same list as installing an aluminum intake, or a set of headers! But, much easier then installing g a clutch. I love manual transmission cars. The way I seen it back then was, if I have to have an automatic, i'm going to make it manual shift. So, I order a Cheetah reverse manual. I had installed many a B&M shift kit at the time, but I thought this is the cats ***! I hope I can install this. I open the box, and it's a complete valvebody. I pulled the old one, and installed the new one, (per 70aar's) very accurate instructions. When I got done I thought I missed something, had to recheck my dumbass. Lol. And I get rid of that kick down linkage.:cheers:. It shifts very hard, and right now. It's not for everybody, because some people WANT an automatic. If that's the case, install a shift kit. I hope 70aar's install instructions along with this, help clarify the Bolton part of the manual valvebody!

 

[540Valiant]

Don't know what I did to make it post twice.

 

[rumblefish360]

LOL! I hate when that happens!

 

[Princess Valiant]

The field is up to 35 wild and crazy Cheapo speed freaks, er. Competitors.

1973_Scamp, 318willrun, 340, 440outlawdart, 89on35s, Abodybomber, alcronk, BB4-speed, beebeeri000, BWDart, Cazbah362, CichliDart, Dartnut, derrangedgadgeteer, halifaxhops, hustonr123, Jaime97, jeepers007, jgiljum, justme, Lead foot, metallidart, mikesdart, Mopar to ya, mopar4, ohiocowboy1277, pishta, RaniDart70, Robbie2734, rumblefish360, RustyRatRod, thesiren74, tqfastfish, TXDart, yeah

So do we each make a build thread or keep our progress to ourselves......Or make one thread and everyone posts as they get stuff done ???

 

[rumblefish360]

Triple R asked me the same thing in my entry thread.

I would say;

Keep a photo journal of the start point and the things you do.
Start your own thread.
Title the thread "Rani's FDC entry" (Freindly Drag Competition)
Each time you go to the track, post the time slip.
Make a note of improvements or if you took a step backwards.
If there is a bit of a project for the mod, like in example you move your springs inboard, show how you did it.

In this way everyone that understands what your doing & hopefully realize your in the competition can help or advise or stop you from a disaster. Everyone gets to compete and help each other.

Now... Where to post, where to post...

Maybe it is possible to get a FDC forum once everything starts to get underway?
JoeyChgo will have to give a nod on that.

Are you out there Joey?

 

[540Valiant]

From top to bottom, seems like a good place to start;

IMO, the car should also be street worthy.

Scoop, anything goes

Air cleaner; Anything goes.

Carb.

A single 4bbl. to keep it simple and cheap.
Stock and stock replacement carbs are what I would like to see. In example;

Edelbrock carbs, basic Holley carbs. 4160/4150 & Avengers. Rebuilt TQ's, QJ's
No Pro built or after market carbs like AED.
Modify it yourself and be a good fella, start a thread and show us how! I wanna see this baby on your bench being done. And so do the new guys!

Intake,

any 4bbl. will do. Mods? Same as above.

Heads.

Run the heads the car came with if you can. I say IF you can because we all do not have what it came with. But it should be a OE head.
Swapping heads is OK. IE: LA for Magnum heads
Stock or replacement style valves
no porting or die grinder work
any valve job is OK
backcutting valves OK
Mill the head until your happy or have a door stop from going to far
I would like to see stock rocker arms, but, .....I'm not just so dead sure about dis-allowing roller rockers. What say you?

Camshaft; What ever you shove in there! LOL!
(While I don't see roller cams cheap, they can be used. What say you?)

Exhaust, what ever you installer have. Manifolds or headers!

Ignition; Any

I say, No electric water and fuel pumps UNLESS you swapped in a Magnum engine (Which has no provision for a mechanical pump)
OR is this not good?

Trans,

Manual, scatter shield OK
Single disc clutch
OE trans 3 or 4 speed

Auto; No Manual valve bodies or trans brakes
Shift kits, deep trans pan, extra cooling, high stall converters OK

Rear end;

Any OE rear, any gear, swap for sure grips & bigger rear, OK
(And makes sense but if you wanna be a one leg warrior and hero, go for it.)

Suspension;

OE and Cal Tracs

Body;

Any hood scoop will do.
Remove and replace what you want/need to. Fiberglass parts are the norm right?!?!?
No Lexan

Interior; Full street like. Not gutted to high heaven. You could loose the back and passenger seat.

OK people! What do you think of that? Basic, easy, readily seen on the street and tracks, nothing crazy or over the top. Kind of typical in a sense that this is what you can see 90% of the time of the road or car meets.

Bump

 

[AlV]

The field is up to 35 wild and crazy Cheapo speed freaks, er. Competitors.

1973_Scamp, 318willrun, 340, 440outlawdart, 89on35s, Abodybomber, alcronk, BB4-speed, beebeeri000, BWDart, Cazbah362, CichliDart, Dartnut, derrangedgadgeteer, halifaxhops, hustonr123, Jaime97, jeepers007, jgiljum, justme, Lead foot, metallidart, mikesdart, Mopar to ya, mopar4, ohiocowboy1277, pishta, RaniDart70, Robbie2734, rumblefish360, RustyRatRod, thesiren74, tqfastfish, TXDart, yeah

The FABO Friendly Drag competition ​

( rumblefish360 )​

What is this?

This is a Competition for fun with no prize money, just bragging rights. This is your chance to be a show off and say I told ya so!. This group wants to reach engage "newbies" to the Hobby in a FUN, Friendly way and show what can be accomplished with bare bones Budget minded type builds.

Who is it for?

This is a friendly competition open to everyone but especially newcomers to the hobby.

How does it work?

It relies on the "Honor system." That should be easy, right? Just remember your actually helping your MoPar family out when you DON'T LIE! Your entry should be done as "CHEAPLY AS POSSIBLE!" THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. SHOW OFF YOUR SCROOGE!!!!! Show the world what a cheap S.O.B. you are! Do your best to keep costs down where ever possible, use what you have laying around, get in trade, or find used. It's okay if you have to buy new Just keep in mind this is a low cost budget minded competition.

New parts carry the price. So, if you can get used headers, great. If not, new ones are not a shame item or expenditure. Building your own exhaust is "Awesome hero work" while dropping $700 on a tti exhaust is "Hall of Shame". Also, The extra cost for slowing down or safety is understandable and should not be considered in the build cost

Once your build is complete Race your local track and report back!

Most IMPORTANTLY, Have fun!

Requirements:

From top to bottom, seems like a good place to start; The car should also be street worthy.

Carb:
* A single 4bbl. to keep it simple and cheap. (Stock and stock replacement carbs are acceptable).
* There is no limiting PSI rule for carbs or fuel injection.

In example; Edelbrock carbs, basic Holley carbs. 4160/4150 & Avengers. Rebuilt TQ's, QJ's No Pro built or after market carbs like AED. Modify it yourself and be a good fella, start a thread and show us how! Let's see this baby on your bench being done. And so do the new guys!​

Fuel:
* The octane requirement is pump gas that you get at your local gas station and available everywhere. For some it is 91 octane, others, 93 octane.
* If 100 octane is available to you, realize that it is not readily available to everyone else and not the normal nation wide normal high octane and therefore not good to use.

Intake:
* Any 4bbl. will do. Mods? Same as above.
* Scoop, anything goes
* Air cleaner; Anything goes.

Heads:
* Run the heads the car came with if you can, or if you don't have the heads it came with it should be an OE head.
* Swapping heads is OK. IE: LA for Magnum heads
* Stock or replacement style valves
* NO porting or die grinder work
* Any valve job is OK
* "Back-cutting" valves OK
* Mill the head until your happy, or have a door stop from going too far!
* Stock rocker arms are preferred, but, open for discussion.

Camshaft:
* Whatever you shove in there! LOL! (Roller cams aren't cheap, but they can be used.)

Exhaust:
* Whatever you have CHEAP! Manifolds, or headers!

Ignition:
* Any *NO electric water and fuel pumps UNLESS you swapped in a Magnum engine (Which has no provision for a mechanical pump) or if it's the only way to make your build work.

Trans:
* Manual, scatter shield OK
* Single disc clutch
* OE trans 3 or 4 speed
* Auto; No Manual valve bodies or trans brakes
* Shift kits, deep trans pan, extra cooling, high stall converters OK

Rear end:
* Any OE rear,
* Any gear
* Swap for sure grips & bigger rear, OK, (if you wanna be a one leg warrior and hero, go for it.)

Suspension:
* OE and Cal Tracs

Body:
* Any hood scoop will do.
* Remove and replace what you want/need to. Fiberglass parts are the norm right?!?!?
* No Lexan

Interior;
* Full street like. Not gutted to high heaven.
* You could remove the back and passenger seat.

 

[fishmens67]

what's with the caltracs, you really think a newbie can set it up.
I think caltracs could be an unfair advantage for some. jmo

 

[rumblefish360]

Yes & maybe. Figuring them out may be a trial and error at most. Installing them is as sime as regular leaf springs. During the particapents thread, they should show how to and what they did. It's easier than a camshaft swap or degreeing a cam.

As far as the "Unfair advantage" words go, how so?

 

[Abodybomber]

Yes & maybe. Figuring them out may be a trial and error at most. Installing them is as sime as regular leaf springs. During the particapents thread, they should show how to and what they did. It's easier than a camshaft swap or degreeing a cam.

As far as the "Unfair advantage" words go, how so?

Price spent, Rob. ( About 3 bills, lots of tuning . FWIW : In Racers Forum , a sticky by a member here on tuning.)

 

[Abodybomber]

The field is up to 35 wild and crazy Cheapo speed freaks, er. Competitors.

1973_Scamp, 318willrun, 340, 440outlawdart, 89on35s, Abodybomber, alcronk, BB4-speed, beebeeri000, BWDart, Cazbah362, CichliDart, Dartnut, derrangedgadgeteer, halifaxhops, hustonr123, Jaime97, jeepers007, jgiljum, justme, Lead foot, metallidart, mikesdart, Mopar to ya, mopar4, ohiocowboy1277, pishta, RaniDart70, Robbie2734, rumblefish360, RustyRatRod, thesiren74, tqfastfish, TXDart, yeah

The FABO Friendly Drag competition ​

( rumblefish360 )​

What is this?

This is a Competition for fun with no prize money, just bragging rights. This is your chance to be a show off and say I told ya so!. This group wants to reach engage "newbies" to the Hobby in a FUN, Friendly way and show what can be accomplished with bare bones Budget minded type builds.

Who is it for?

This is a friendly competition open to everyone but especially newcomers to the hobby.

How does it work?

It relies on the "Honor system." That should be easy, right? Just remember your actually helping your MoPar family out when you DON'T LIE! Your entry should be done as "CHEAPLY AS POSSIBLE!" THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. SHOW OFF YOUR SCROOGE!!!!! Show the world what a cheap S.O.B. you are! Do your best to keep costs down where ever possible, use what you have laying around, get in trade, or find used. It's okay if you have to buy new Just keep in mind this is a low cost budget minded competition.

New parts carry the price. So, if you can get used headers, great. If not, new ones are not a shame item or expenditure. Building your own exhaust is "Awesome hero work" while dropping $700 on a tti exhaust is "Hall of Shame". Also, The extra cost for slowing down or safety is understandable and should not be considered in the build cost

Once your build is complete Race your local track and report back!

Most IMPORTANTLY, Have fun!

Requirements:

From top to bottom, seems like a good place to start; The car should also be street worthy.

Carb:
* A single 4bbl. to keep it simple and cheap. (Stock and stock replacement carbs are acceptable).
* There is no limiting PSI rule for carbs or fuel injection.

In example; Edelbrock carbs, basic Holley carbs. 4160/4150 & Avengers. Rebuilt TQ's, QJ's No Pro built or after market carbs like AED. Modify it yourself and be a good fella, start a thread and show us how! Let's see this baby on your bench being done. And so do the new guys!​

Fuel:
* The octane requirement is pump gas that you get at your local gas station and available everywhere. For some it is 91 octane, others, 93 octane.
* If 100 octane is available to you, realize that it is not readily available to everyone else and not the normal nation wide normal high octane and therefore not good to use.

Intake:
* Any 4bbl. will do. Mods? Same as above.
* Scoop, anything goes
* Air cleaner; Anything goes.

Heads:
* Run the heads the car came with if you can, or if you don't have the heads it came with it should be an OE head.
* Swapping heads is OK. IE: LA for Magnum heads
* Stock or replacement style valves
* NO porting or die grinder work
* Any valve job is OK
* "Back-cutting" valves OK
* Mill the head until your happy, or have a door stop from going too far!
* Stock rocker arms are preferred, but, open for discussion.

Camshaft:
* Whatever you shove in there! LOL! (Roller cams aren't cheap, but they can be used.)

Exhaust:
* Whatever you have CHEAP! Manifolds, or headers!

Ignition:
* Any *NO electric water and fuel pumps UNLESS you swapped in a Magnum engine (Which has no provision for a mechanical pump) or if it's the only way to make your build work.

Trans:
* Manual, scatter shield OK
* Single disc clutch
* OE trans 3 or 4 speed
* Auto; No Manual valve bodies or trans brakes
* Shift kits, deep trans pan, extra cooling, high stall converters OK

Rear end:
* Any OE rear,
* Any gear
* Swap for sure grips & bigger rear, OK, (if you wanna be a one leg warrior and hero, go for it.)

Suspension:
* OE and Cal Tracs

Body:
* Any hood scoop will do.
* Remove and replace what you want/need to. Fiberglass parts are the norm right?!?!?
* No Lexan

Interior;
* Full street like. Not gutted to high heaven.
* You could remove the back and passenger seat.

Nice and concise. Thank You ,Rumble & AIV.

 

[fishmens67]

don't get me wrong, you have a good gig going. I think caltracs is something a newbie is not likely to figure out, and they arn't exactly cheap.

 

[383Scampman]

A good set of rules is the one's set down by N.M.C.A pertaining to Nostalgia Muscle Car class. I woould add:"All cars in competition must be licensed and inspected for the state they are registered in. Proof of insurance is manditory." I would add, as others have, complete interiors are manditory. I think going to an index format would help newbees in 1/2 sec. intivals. Example: 12.50 sec index run heads up with all other 12.50 cars. Could go as slow as 15.50 index. Whatdya think ?

 

[rumblefish360]

The idea of an index is out because it introduces the idea of having to run a certain time or break out and be force to compete against faster cars I n this Freindly competition of just simply showing off on how to go fast cheaply to new guys of beginner and novice levels.

You have missed the idea of this. Completely.

However that safety line is great!

Abodybomber, 3 bills huh?! Didn't know that.
And S/S springs with a snubber cost???
I myself didn't think moving the springs inboard to be over the top or expensive. Though I don't see much of a need for the level of play here. But then again, ya never know how can bring what to the table.

Cal Tracks out?!?!

 

[318willrun]

A good set of rules is the one's set down by N.M.C.A pertaining to Nostalgia Muscle Car class. I woould add:"All cars in competition must be licensed and inspected for the state they are registered in. Proof of insurance is manditory." I would add, as others have, complete interiors are manditory. I think going to an index format would help newbees in 1/2 sec. intivals. Example: 12.50 sec index run heads up with all other 12.50 cars. Could go as slow as 15.50 index. Whatdya think ?

I think, like you, street legal (even if they don't actually do tag it, it should be ready) and interior is great. I don't think indexing time is good. If we were to index, it should be by price, not time. Cheap is king here! Again, there really shouldn't be much seen in the 12's here. They are smiling at exhaust manifolds, stock heads, and CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP!

 

[540Valiant]

The idea of an index is out because it introduces the idea of having to run a certain time or break out and be force to compete against faster cars I n this Freindly competition of just simply showing off on how to go fast cheaply to new guys of beginner and novice levels.

You have missed the idea of this. Completely.

However that safety line is great!

Abodybomber, 3 bills huh?! Didn't know that.
And S/S springs with a snubber cost???
I myself didn't think moving the springs inboard to be over the top or expensive. Though I don't see much of a need for the level of play here. But then again, ya never know how can bring what to the table.

Cal Tracks out?!?!

Super stocks with an adj. snubber and the shocks to make both, the cal tracs or the super stocks work are going to run you around 5 bills "new". Both have been around long enough to be found cheap used. I don't think most of the competitors are going to be making a shopping list from a catalog! They are going to be living in the want ads section, Craigslist etc. Or,Begging a buddy for a deal.

 

[rumblefish360]

As per Summit, MP drag springs run around $112 - $125 area. Under $55 for bushings.
Cal Tracks new start @ $378 at there site.
http://www.calvertracing.com/store/split-mono-leaf-2000-p-5.html

 

[540Valiant]

But, you have to add the longer drag shocks and 90/10's, up front or adjustables at least. To make them worth the Install. By the time they start needing these traction devices, they'll probably be in the 12's. This is so cool! People have to spend wisely! If you use say a Dakota, or something light, you might need the super stock package or caltracs at the 14sec range. If your using an a or b body, it would best to use that money somewhere else. I can't wait to see combos coming together!