those that have builded a frontend?????

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i put the rack in along time ago when i built a 440-1 headed 512 nos motor and was using cppa headers. with the raised exhaust port the headers were right in the torsion bars. so it was a need to do thing. then when i went to the supercharger and having to build 2 5/8" headers all the space came in pretty darn handy.
 
I need the room and the weight savings.
 

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ok guys back home from vac. glad that i got alot of hits on this and i am lookin forward to getting the front end done:prayer:...bob its about 8:30 on mon. night and with the rain i will prob. be off tomm. so give me a call and i shoot up and help out on the hot rod:D...also guys im glad to see that there is alot of tech coming from you guys and not the bashing that most get when they try something like this :cheers:...so lets keep the info coming and i will post pics as we go on the front of my duster:D....bob has his work cut out for him =D>
 
You talked about boxing your K frame, here is a picture that is used on the Hemis. The mounts are cut off you may not need to do this unless to are going to use a motor plate.

View attachment 057.jpg

Kenny
 
Hemiroid...you must have a very big.......oil pan

nice lookin' piece ya got there...
 
just not now because the hotrod is outside covered up in the grass.......
HOLY SHEEEEEEEEET !!!

How about if, 1. You keep running those spindles, 2. I pay for your
life insurance and 3. You name me as beneficiary?


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Don't let a few clowns commenting get you down, Earthmover. The vast majority of us understand that you're trying to do this yourself and learn new things instead of just writing the big check. I have a lot more respect for someone like you that had the guts to ask than for those that can only criticize. That's what makes this obsession so great- as many different ways to build cars as there are builders. Just please keep safety first and foremost in mind. Just my humble .02 from a fairly new member.
 
I went with a RMS on my Demon and am very happy however I very much appreciate what you are doing. Great words of wisdom from Big Jim.
 
Don't let a few clowns commenting get you down, Earthmover. The vast majority of us understand that you're trying to do this yourself and learn new things instead of just writing the big check. I have a lot more respect for someone like you that had the guts to ask than for those that can only criticize. That's what makes this obsession so great- as many different ways to build cars as there are builders. Just please keep safety first and foremost in mind. Just my humble .02 from a fairly new member.

:thumblef: build it safe and strong...... ask me how I know....
 
I'm not sure if I should ask you......you could be one of those nay-sayer clowns....
 
whats wrong with bobs set up dr.hemi?:violent2:????? i'd like to know...why would you post and not give a reason???? anyway ive been jacked with work the last few days and nights and havent has any time to work on or take a look at the car yet....but i have been reading up on bump steer and ackerman in the book drang race chassis and suspension and it gives a great idea of how thinks work along with the web on bump steer and ackerman..so i think when its all said and odne it work work and be very safe ...ill be checkin back in on my phone gotta go lay back down gotta work tonight as well :glasses7:...so how bout so more info from those that can share it please..thanks mike
 
whats wrong with bobs set up dr.hemi?????? i'd like to know...why would you post and not give a reason????
Would you make a tie-rod out of flat stock? That spindle looks like it
would be the first link in the chain to fold up and fail if pushed.

If the flat part was 1/4" and gusseted it might be a little better but
that whole set up with the square tubbing gives me the willies!

Good luck and hope you always drive in a straight line on a smooth
surface (drag strip). JMHO.
 
Would you make a tie-rod out of flat stock? That spindle looks like it
would be the first link in the chain to fold up and fail if pushed.

If the flat part was 1/4" and gusseted it might be a little better but
that whole set up with the square tubbing gives me the willies!

Good luck and hope you always drive in a straight line on a smooth
surface (drag strip). JMHO.

:eek:ops:
it's ok to have your respectful opinion. the part is a steering arm and not the spindle and it's a piece of solid cold rolled steel. the welds are all beveled 3/8" and the flat piece is 1/4" and not long enough to need a gusset. yes it only goes on the strip and not ever on the street although it could pass the n.c. safety test. i hope this removes some of your willies.
 
Thanks for the clarification Bob. You just don't see them made like that.

I appreciate the fact that you kept moving things around to get the geometry
right.
 
dr hemi how bout some pics....not :violent1: on you but you seem to have some no how to this as well so how bout helping out with some good tech info if you dont mind...

hey bob hows it going buddy????????i'll try and call you 1 day this week when im off mike:burnout:
 
I am between hot rods right now and the past was all B-body (no need to
modify the front end on those).

My next one is probably going to be a Hemi A-body and I think that I would
defer to HemiDenny on that subject as I have been watching his posts for
the last year or so and got to inspect his new ride last month at the Nat's.
He does it right and here is what I have learned.

Suffice it to say that to eliminate bumpsteer, you have to have the length and
angle of the tie rods and lower control arms as close to identical as possible.

The other important parameter is ackerman (you know how when observing a
car making a very tight turn, the inside wheel has a much more severe angle
than the outside wheel?). If you were to just flip the stock spindles side to side
to make it a front steer the ackerman would be the opposite of what is desired
and the car would be virtually undriveable.

To get the ackerman right, draw a straight imaginary line from the pinion nut on
the rearend through the spindle pivot and out in front of the spindle. Anywhere on
that line is where the outer tie-rod end should be.

This why it is so important to have a design that locates the steering rack in the
optimum location. If you (or your builder) follows these fundemental priciples you
will have a great steering and handling car.
 
Dr Hemi....you learn well ,Grasshopper...

you hit all the major points almost right on the money.....when you get ready to start that next project...I'd be more than happy to help in any way I can..

not to nit-pick...but your first statement while close ...is incorrect.......the tie rods are not neccassarily the same lenght as the lower control arms...that lenght is determined by the intersection of the upper control arm pivot (mounting) point /inner tie rod knuckle (steering rack), and the lower control arm inner pivot (mounting) point....see Heidts suspension basics at the front of their catalog
 
Woo no help for me hemidanny ? Well anyway I don't understad it all but have did a lot of reading and looking. With that said I take it your to check your bump steer 1st and if it ok you can move on if not you have to move the rack up,down+ut,or in until it is acc to you. The ackerman you check by pulling strings and a lot of tape pulling. Now that's just in a nut shell be is that close? I'm at work on my cell now and will check in later if I can . Thanks mike
 
never at all mind helping my Mopar brothers...and I certainly do not want to come off as a know it all........but,I feel you have some homework to do before tackling a project like a front suspension/steering re-design. Anyone attempting this type of modification needs to know what they are doing....not just as a safty issue...but to keep from spending your hard earned money needlessly
 
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