Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Do you use the 45 degree angle cut?
It's amazing how clean a patch you can do using this method.
Here's one of his videos.
Trust me.. its like popcorn, you cant watch only one...
Thoughts/do I need to dent my new headers, new pics ?
- Thread starter moparhunter
- Start date
-
It's amazing how clean a patch you can do using this method.
Here's one of his videos.
Trust me.. its like popcorn, you cant watch only one...
can confirm that you can make really good power with a 400 and the right combo of parts.
though i have the 73~76 spool mount K, the TTI headers fit a good as you can hope in the bay of my '68
Robert Landy did one for Mopar Muscle in the early 90s. The article was called "Triple Threat". 400/400/400. Cubes, horse power, torque. And he used the Crane Magic cam. I still have that issue.
Do you know the specs of that cam?
It's been years, I don't remember.
Of course. .467/.494 222/234 @.050 ground on a 114.
It's ridiculous that even has to be said, that a 400 can make power without the need to stroke it.
You got THAT right! It's a 340 big block! Big bore, short stroke!
gear down big shifter, don't know where you got that jive about strokin' it cuz i'm over here singing the songs i want to sing with stock bore & stroke while bumping a pump gas friendly compression ratio.
I'm agreeing with you
good. you better.I'm agreeing with you
SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
This is not the 1st time there has been fitment issues with these mounts.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Two words: Stacked tolerances. None of these cars were built exactly the same, which makes header fitment a challenge for some. As stated, shim as necessary.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I usually do the 45 degree method. Sometimes I use a 3" cutting disk, but sometimes I use an air saw. It takes a little longer, but I feel like I have more control with it. That is one of my favorite videos. In fact, this is the first video of his I ever watched. I was hooked after that. I hope to meet him someday.
4mulas
Fixem'up
I agree. I see more and more people using shumaker and having header fitment issue. Maybe they changed something
Right, so not at all relevant on an A-body then.
Yeah, it's not the "wrong" steering linkage. If anything, the 73+ linkage usually creates MORE space, not less. You certainly have no way to guarantee that switching over to the 67-72 linkage will fix the problem.
TTI lists the headers as fitting 67-76 A-bodies with stock steering components, it doesn't say they won't fit with the 73+ steering linkage. And using the '73+ linkage on a 68-72 K-frame doesn't change the position of the linkage.
You're right, but it certainly appears that it might.
The position of the center link does not change substantially between the two year ranges, it likely changes more with the brand of the pitman/idler than the year range swap. You can see in my earlier post (#57) with the pictures of each set of steering linkage that both versions are tight to the headers, the clearance locations change slightly but it's not a slam dunk improvement either way.
As @junkyardhero pointed out, what's going on here is likely just tolerance stack. That set of engine mounts, that set of engine mount isolators, that brand of pitman/idler/tie rod end, that particular K frame, etc combined with that particular set of headers, which themselves probably have the largest tolerances of any of it.
For my money the OP should measure the position of the engine and compare that to TTI's specs, call TTI, and assuming nothing changes there, shim the engine mounts and then use a jack or port-power to move the headers some, that can be pretty successful. I know I moved mine some to gain some clearance on my torsion bars.
SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
If this was factory parts the stacked tolerance idea is reasonable, however this is not the case as there are known geometry problems with the aftermarket product. This info is from wrestling with their product.
Right. When I said "steering linkage" I was including the pitman and idler. I should have been more clear. It's really apparent the pitman for his year has a more substantial drop as I'm sure the idler does as well.
Just look at the pictures.
Yes, the 68-72 pitman and idler have a more significant drop, but the center link sits on TOP of them. The 73-76 pitman and idler appear to have less of a drop, but the center link is BELOW them.
Look at the pictures in post #57. The center link stays at basically the same height. It has to, otherwise the steering geometry would have changed from 67-72 vs 73-76.
And "steering linkage" has to include the pitman and idler, because you can't mix and match 68-72 and 73-76 steering components. You have to use the pitman, idler and center link from the same year range because of the change in the direction of the tapers.
The problem isn't the 73+ linkage.
Washington Dart
Member
Beautiful work,nice and a great communicator.
4mulas
Fixem'up
You’re obviously 100 % correct. The one thing I do find though is that the parts of the steering that are closest to the header like body of the tie Rod end and pitman where it connects to the centerlink on 73 and up is bigger and may provide less clearance than than the earlier style where just the stud and and castle nut are closest to the header? In fact on my picture I posted I have ground the threaded stud on the idler and one tire Rod end and it would just touch. You wouldn’t have this flexibility and also would not want to grind on the body of a tie Rod end or pitman. Just a thought.
It’s certainly possible.
But I think realistically the differences in clearance from one car to another, or even one brand of pitman and idler arm to another, are bigger factors. Even one set of headers to another, even of the same brand/model.
All I’m saying is that I wouldn’t switch from 73+ steering components to 68-72 steering components and expect that to solve the clearance issue by itself. Could it? Sure, in one instance it might. And in another it could make it worse, and I don’t think it’s clear cut the situations in which it would work or not.
I’d be far more inclined to adjust the headers.
-
Similar threads
