Timing question

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DentalDart said:
It is at the 1 o clock position roughly with piston 1 at tdc :thumbsup: luckily I take lots of pictures right?

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Everybody on this thread that's in the know already knew it was in the right place since the engine runs as well as it does. The problem is somewhere between the end of the tool and the ground. But that's ok, we've all been there.
 
DentalDart said:
The dampener is super clean... besides the new fresh paint on it :). Sucks to scrape off all that pretty new paint... haha. But a timing tape would be nice. Maybe I should have bought a fancy black one with timing marks on it...
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That’s ok. If you still have the paint once the tape is on you can use blue masking tape to cover the timing tape and repaint the damper. The damper on the engine I’m doing this afternoon isn’t painted. So I’ll install the tape, mask it off and paint the thing. In fact, I have to paint the entire engine.
 
I painted my balancer, installed tape and clear coated it so it wont peel off down the road. When I set my timing, I plug off the vac can, set my total at 34 -36 degrees, then I see where it is at idle. If it needs more initial you need to weld some of the slots in dist. or add a limiter plate. Also hook up vac can and see where it's at too. Maybe this isn't correct but it's what I've always done with new dizzy.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I painted my balancer, installed tape and clear coated it so it wont peel off down the road. When I set my timing, I plug off the vac can, set my total at 34 -36 degrees, then I see where it is at idle. If it needs more initial you need to weld some of the slots in dist. or add a limiter plate. Also hook up vac can and see where it's at too. Maybe this isn't correct but it's what I've always done with new dizzy.
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Same here. We're just getting him on the road 'pre distributor slot mod'

Another trick is to remove the heavy spring and only run one. That limits to 18* mechanical advance. Idle rpm is enough to let the one weight swing out.
 
Update- we got it done.

Initial timing is at 12 and total timing is at about 37. Then adjusted the fuel air ratio at the carb. Idles at 900 and sounds great!

Next monday we are going to add a plate to the distributor and see how much timing this pig can take!
 
DentalDart said:
Update- we got it done.

Initial timing is at 12 and total timing is at about 37. Then adjusted the fuel air ratio at the carb. Idles at 900 and sounds great!

Next monday we are going to add a plate to the distributor and see how much timing this pig can take!
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Heck yeah man! git r dun!
 
I posted this in my restoration thread and the shout out but if you all dont want to venture there heres tunes to bless your ears!
 
DentalDart said:
Update- we got it done.

Initial timing is at 12 and total timing is at about 37. Then adjusted the fuel air ratio at the carb. Idles at 900 and sounds great!

Next monday we are going to add a plate to the distributor and see how much timing this pig can take!
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Great to hear.
Just like I said....1 degree is well within the margin of error.
 
yes...the initial timing ended up at 12 because the total...FbO plate to the rescue...once we get that set...I have a FAST Air Fuel gauge we can get the idle mixed set.....i think i ended up at 1 3/4 turns out on them...

engine fires right up and is very responsive...and sounds nice....
 
DentalDart said:
Sorry for the confusion, I'll try to clarify.

Once the cam was installed and properly degreed with degree wheel. We set the engine to piston 1 TDC, then added on the new timing cover, then the distributor with rotor pointing to cyl 1 tdc. After that was all on we put on the balancer to see if the indentation on the balancer was correctly aligned with the 0 on the timing tab (which it was) of the new correct side timing chain cover (one with factory tab on the passenger side).

Essentially this picture with to make sure my balancer was correctly marked for the timing chain cover.

Ah hah! I found a problem- right now according to my previous picture posted cyl 1 is not at TDC, it is what 90 degrees off or something like that, the mark with the red line should be at 0 for TDC.

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Wow! You removed heads with headers. How tough is it to remove/install heads with headers in the way? I thought it would not be possible but it is.
 
Yes....the dentist did....took them off....cleaned everything....and put them back on....torqued them too...
 
QuickDart360 said:
Wow! You removed heads with headers. How tough is it to remove/install heads with headers in the way? I thought it would not be possible but it is.
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Removing everything isnt the hard part, it's the putting it back together which is the hard part. The bolt on the back of cylinder 7 between the 2 header pipes that the header bolt hits is a royal pain.

Glad I didnt leak anything and have to rip it back apart though. Luckily for me I had a great coach. Now let's drive her tomorrow and see how she does! It's funny because I drive this car around like a grandma
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Another trick is to remove the heavy spring and only run one. That limits to 18* mechanical advance. Idle rpm is enough to let the one weight swing out.
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Good info. I may try it myself. I still have to dial in my dizzy. My initial is only at 8 btdc on my Ragtop.

Glad you got it done. Sounds great .
 
DentalDart said:
! It's funny because I drive this car around like a grandma
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You better with 37 degrees total at LV elevation.:D
You are well into preignition range, and the more throttle you give it the worse it's going to get.

Heck yea that sound good man.
 
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TrailBeast said:
You better with 37 degrees total at LV elevation.:D
You are well into preignition range, and the more throttle you give it the worse it's going to get.

Heck yea that sound good man.
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Well we were at 14/37 then brought it back to 12 initial. So we may be close to around 35 total.

Listen for "pinging" right? Idk what that is but I've been told I will know it if it happens
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Depends on what it cranks.
OP, what's the motor crank on a compression test?
What's the lsa and int centerline & [email protected] on the cam?
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Compression is 150 avg. Posted results in picture. Cam Centerline 108, duration 225 at intake, I didnt write down the # for duration at the exhaust but it should be around 230. Posted cam specs as well

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DentalDart,
So what are your final, measured degrees advance at: idle; max. mechanical; and max. with mechanical and vacuum advance?
Have you tried using a timing light with an adjustable dial for measuring timing? They are quick and easy to use. Since you have timing tape on the pully, you can cross check them.
You want to know total timing with vacuum before you do any hard acceleration on the road so you don't get any preignition and possibly damage the engine. Find out how much is too much in the unloaded situation first. The engine rpm will start decreasing with higher RPM if there is too much Total advance (with vacuum attached). Also make sure that the vacuum hose is attached to the timed port on the carburetor, not the full vacuum port. You can find the highest rpm with total (mechanical and vacuum advance).
Richard
 
Richard Sweet said:
DentalDart,
So what are your final, measured degrees advance at: idle; max. mechanical; and max. with mechanical and vacuum advance?
Have you tried using a timing light with an adjustable dial for measuring timing? They are quick and easy to use. Since you have timing tape on the pully, you can cross check them.
You want to know total timing with vacuum before you do any hard acceleration on the road so you don't get any preignition and possibly damage the engine. Find out how much is too much in the unloaded situation first. The engine rpm will start decreasing with higher RPM if there is too much Total advance (with vacuum attached). Also make sure that the vacuum hose is attached to the timed port on the carburetor, not the full vacuum port. You can find the highest rpm with total (mechanical and vacuum advance).
Richard
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About the timing tape... I never put it on lol. I have a timing light with an adjustable dial which we used. Set it to our initial where we wanted it then checked where our total without vacuum would be.

First initial :14
First total at 3k RPMs: 37
Turned initial back to 12 and shut her down. Theoretically we should be around 35 total, but we didnt check, o can check in a bit

Vacuum is plugged right now and we didnt time it with vacuum hooked up. We are adding a FBO distributor limiting plate and will get it even more tuned next Monday. Old man Tony says I've been working him to hard in the garage :poke::lol:
Just kidding, but we have been working a lot in the garage so we are taking a couple days. When I told my wife he wasnt coming over today she was like "wait what?!"
 
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