**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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I purchased a gang load of Heat Shrink, a new Solder Station and a new Heat Gun for the make up of the wiring harness.

I also need to buy one of these.....

http://www.acceleronics.com/versafueler.htm


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This goes in-between the MS3 and the Low Impedance Injectors. Supposedly with Sequential Fuel Injection and Low Impedance Injectors the Idle Quality with the 160lb Bosch Injectors ,"or ANY Bigger Low Impedance Injector",is way better. Either way with the MS3 you need to run some type of resistor set up when using Low Impedence Injectors.


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This is the MegaSquirt-III EMS System with MS3X Expansion V3.57 that I had build with the Mapdaddy 4 bar Map Sensor that is good to 44psi. The standard MAP is good to 21psi, I figured upgrade it now for the NEXT project and it is already ready. I also ordered the EBC, "Electronic Boost Controller"

The complete set up with harness's that needs to be made up, sensors, connectors built up was $980.00.

I also need to make a Relay Board that gets wired into this system. They sell one made up already but it is too small for what I have going on. I need a 8 Relay set up minimum. Fans, Heat Exchanger Fans, Intercooler Water Pump, Meth Injection, Fuel Pump, Nitrous stage 1, Nitrous stage 2. I am sure that I am missing something. The nitrous will be for future use & I will probably add a couple extras for later on the Board.

All the electronics will be mounted on a Rack on the passenger side where the Stock Heater box use to be.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...with-ms3x-expansion-v357-assembled-p-435.html

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Features:

(Based on full featured MS3+MS3X+V3.57)
Speed-density, alpha-n or MAF for fuelling calculations
16x16 fuel tables in 0.1% steps with true interpolation and movable rows/columns
16x16 spark tables in 0.1 degree steps with true interpolation and movable rows/columns
Wall-wetting transient fuel control for better driveability
On board datalogging to SDcard (max 333Hz sample rate)
Tuning by serial or built-in USB-serial port.
8 channels sequential fuel (hi-z injectors or low-z with external resistors)
2 additional fuel channels (hi-z or low-z)
8 channels sequential spark (logic level output)
6 channels mid current output for small solenoids or relays
2 'spare' conditioned 0-5V analogue inputs (+2 more raw)
Two wideband oxygen sensor input (external controller required)
(Up to eight widebands supported via external data capture)
GM-style stepper idle control
2 and 3 wire PWM idle control
Closed loop idle control
Closed loop mixture control - ideally with wideband
Closed loop boost control
Various boost control systems (gear, time, speed based)
Two stage variable nitrous control
2 step type launch control
CAN communications to interconnect other Megasquirt products e.g. transmission controller
Supports external data capture boards (e.g. for external EGT boards)
EGT data support (with external amplifier)
Staged injection
Dual fuel (e.g. LPG)
Table switching, (mainly for dual fuel use)
Water/Meth injection
Individual cylinder injector trim
Injector phase timing
Individual cylinder spark trim
Support for numerous OEM trigger wheel patterns.
Magnetic (VR), Hall, Opto crank sensor input
Magnetic (VR), Hall, Opto cam sensor input
 
I took the MS3 out of the box to investigate.

It is actually pretty small...... I was wrong on how much the whole thing cost by about $29.00, the whole thing with a 13% Discount was $1009.00, Plus the cost of the "FPS" which was $71.00 delivered and a CLT Sensor that was $32.00 Delivered. Total is $1112.00

I also purchased the VersaFueler today. It came to $307.00 with Tax and Delivery.


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I got my MS3 yesterday but mine came in as a bunch of parts going to put it together here soon. I traded the kit for se work I did so I still need to buy a few things before i can assemble it though.
 
03ramit1 said:
I got my MS3 yesterday but mine came in as a bunch of parts going to put it together here soon. I traded the kit for se work I did so I still need to buy a few things before i can assemble it though.
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I was going to buy mine unassembled also but I just don't have the 15-20 Hours needed to put it together. My first choice was to do that.

What are you going to install it on?
 
Lol I have nothing but time. I get off work at 1:30 everyday so I have plenty of time in the afternoons to tinker with it.

Mine will be going on a 75 duster with a 5.7 Hemi and a set of twin turbos. I have been building the car from the ground up. Finally got the mini tubs, cage, narrowed Dana, and ladder bar suspension done the front end rebuilt and the motor and core trans in the car (tool about 14 months working on it on saterdays only) next project is turbo plumbing, then fuel system, wiring and trans. Then it will be all the small stuff as we blow the car apart for detail work like cleaning everything and getting the weight down and then paint and reassemble. I hope to have it done and ready to race by about OCT next year.
 
03ramit1 said:
Lol I have nothing but time. I get off work at 1:30 everyday so I have plenty of time in the afternoons to tinker with it.

Mine will be going on a 75 duster with a 5.7 Hemi and a set of twin turbos. I have been building the car from the ground up. Finally got the mini tubs, cage, narrowed Dana, and ladder bar suspension done the front end rebuilt and the motor and core trans in the car (tool about 14 months working on it on saterdays only) next project is turbo plumbing, then fuel system, wiring and trans. Then it will be all the small stuff as we blow the car apart for detail work like cleaning everything and getting the weight down and then paint and reassemble. I hope to have it done and ready to race by about OCT next year.
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Do you have a Thread Link?
 
I did but I have not updates it in a long time. I'll update it today and send it to you this afternoon
 
What is versafueler and how will it work with megasquirt? out of curiosity. Also I have likely said it before but your build rocks!
 
SirDan said:
What is versafueler and how will it work with megasquirt? out of curiosity. Also I have likely said it before but your build rocks!
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There are 2 types of fuel injectors "high impedance" & "low impedance", the megasquirt 3 can drive the high impedance injectors without the versafueler.

Theory is that the low impedance injectors are better than the high when using BIGGER injectors. Mine are 160lb Bosch low impedance that require the use of a resistor wired in-between the negative or triggered side of the injector when using the MS3. You can make your own resistor packs but I don't believe they will work as well as a contained unit like the versa fueler. The versafueler also is supposed to help the bigger injectors have a much better off idle response than using a high impedance injector. Idle quality is supposed do be way better also.

You can view the wiring diagram in the above post to understand how it gets wired in-between th ECU and the injectors.
 
Holy **** man, that's a lot of stuff to figure out. This things going to have more electronic modules than a Cadillac
 
MD let me know what you think of the versafuler. also i was a little disappointed you did not post up pics of the cage. BTW the rest of my MS3 parts arrived today. tomorrow ill start building the PCM.
 
03ramit1 said:
MD let me know what you think of the versafuler. also i was a little disappointed you did not post up pics of the cage. BTW the rest of my MS3 parts arrived today. tomorrow ill start building the PCM.
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Well it has not gotten any further really. We found out the MAIN HOOP which came from the 8 Point Kit I bought from ART MORRISON was bent incorrectly which was throwing off the Pillar bars. So we had to heat up the main hoop at the floor plates so the upper part of the hoop at the headliner moved toward the passenger side about 1/2", take out the HALO bar we just bent and bend a new one. I got the metal under the dash notched and the floor plates tacked in for the Pillar Bars. We are moving the pillar bars as far forward as possible hugging the glass and trying to follow the pillar as best as possible so I should hopefully not need to cut into the DASH PAD and only have to cut the metal part of the dash for the pillar bars, this is very time consuming. Today if my buddy can make it we will be doing the pillar bars and hopefully the forward bars that tie into the front frame rails.

Ill post some pictures of the progress after today's work "If we get to work on it" Otherwise I will be working on the other Turbo Brace and figuring out the wiring for the EFI Harness.
 
64physhy said:
Holy **** man, that's a lot of stuff to figure out. This things going to have more electronic modules than a Cadillac
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Kinda I guess, for an old car it will have alot going on. I will have the Harness and everything ready for plug and play when it is dyno time. Brian should just be able to plug this into Power and Ground, plum the fuel and water along with hooking up to his ignition box when it comes time and fire it after setting all the sensor Value's in Tuner Studio.

I will be buying one of these fuse blocks..... that has 10 or 12 circuits.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSS-15600-12-20/

I already have a bunch of Bosch Relays that I will use for the Harness. Gunna build an "AMP RACK" style electronics board that will bolt under the dash where the heater unit use to be.
 
Well only got the passenger side Turbo Brace made up today. Ran out of time again.

This one was a little harder to make since the Alternator needs some room for adjustment. I am moving the alternator down some and will be making another bracket off of the Turbo Bracket to carry the alternator. When doing this I will need to make a custom bracket off the water pump bolts to hold the front of the alternator straight and level along with making the lower alternator bracket for the tightening adjustment also.

The reason I will be moving the alternator down is because when the Alternator belt is on I only have about 1/2" Clearance from the Intercooler piping on the passenger side. Everything is a compact tight fit. This will also give me more adjustment to tighten the belt before it hits.
 

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man i wantto point out a mistake that i made with my pillar bars. we ran mine as far forward as possable too. and i got a big fat no go from the NHRA tech inspector. we had the floor plat sitting on the pinch weld where the floor transitions to the firewall. so just make sure that you are on the floor only. its better to fix it now than after you ahve built it and have several other bars that tie into it all done and have to move it. by changing mine i ended up redoing 6 bars in the car to get it correct. so just a word to the wise as to what i learned. also your floor plates will be much stronger if you fold up the one side and run it up the rocker box a little. (i ran mine up to the seam in the panel about an inch or so)
 
03ramit1 said:
man i wantto point out a mistake that i made with my pillar bars. we ran mine as far forward as possable too. and i got a big fat no go from the NHRA tech inspector. we had the floor plat sitting on the pinch weld where the floor transitions to the firewall. so just make sure that you are on the floor only. its better to fix it now than after you ahve built it and have several other bars that tie into it all done and have to move it. by changing mine i ended up redoing 6 bars in the car to get it correct. so just a word to the wise as to what i learned. also your floor plates will be much stronger if you fold up the one side and run it up the rocker box a little. (i ran mine up to the seam in the panel about an inch or so)
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We actually boxed the front floor plates off of the Rocker by the Kick Panel.
The guy helping me with my cage is well aware of the code on the cages. He builds Full Chassis cars and he will call out for an inspection.
Mine will be Certified to 8.50 before it leaves my garage.
 
yeah we have been going though the rule book. we just missed the fact that we were on the fire wall and the floor. oops live and learn i guess. yeah mine will be at an 8.50 cert as well. its done and tacked in place. going to drop my the inspectors house with it and verify that its good befor we weld it then. we will get too it. and have the cert done.
 
03ramit1 said:
yeah we have been going though the rule book. we just missed the fact that we were on the fire wall and the floor. oops live and learn i guess. yeah mine will be at an 8.50 cert as well. its done and tacked in place. going to drop my the inspectors house with it and verify that its good befor we weld it then. we will get too it. and have the cert done.
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Well that's good. This is live and learn as we go, I know that.
 
The dumb part is that the rule book doesn't necessarily spell stuff like that out. Just as a side note the a pillar bars on my Darts both clear the dash pads. Just watch out for the VIN of all things. Haha, hope I dont get in trouble for notching mine.
 
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