**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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DarTT said:
how much is that gorgeous setup gonna run you? Walbro is some good stuff
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Well lets see.....

3 Walbro pumps for $302.70
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd...748635&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3967wt_909

2-Fuel Blocks $110.00
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15932/10002/-1

6 - 10an oringed to 6an male 9.97 x 6= $59.82
6- 1/4 to 6an male 3.82 x 6= $22.92
6- 6an to 6an female couplers 7.49 x6= $44.94
3- 10an oringed to 10an male 10.92 x 3= $32.76

20' 10an braided line 5.12 per foot = $102.40
15' 8an braided line 4.22 per foot = $63.3

So around $750.00 , it is common to spend around 1K for a good fuel system. I still need filters and misc stuff to this list so by the time it is over about $900.00 or so Total.

I have most of the other fittings I need that are 10an.

I buy all my fittings and hose from this guy here, hard to find a better price and free shipping and no tax.... I call and place the order, it always shows up in 1 or 2 days max.
http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Dynamics-Speed-Shop
 
Just bought the Fuel Pumps "3" and Fuel Rails "2" . Making the call today to order all the fittings and hose.
 
So the total for the fuel set up was........

$302.70 for 3 Fuel Pumps
$118.00 for the 2 Fuel Rails
$79.90 for Misc Fittings and a 10an inline Filter before the pumps
$348.91 for all the fittings and Hose

Total $849.51

Still need the Return line and another smaller filter right before the Regulator.
So figure another $80.00 or so.
 
That's cool i've been wanting to look into doing that to my 318 but i don't think i'll ever have the money to. Looks like its going to be cramped in that engine bay.
 
That's crazy how almost half of your cost is fittings and hose. I can't wait to see the numbers that it will make
 
DarTT said:
That's crazy how almost half of your cost is fittings and hose. I can't wait to see the numbers that it will make
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Yeah I hear you on that one! It is too late to turn back now! This hobby is EXPENSIVE........ I feel bad because I am addicted, haaaaa:sad11:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfYkhQblYjY"]Too late to turn back now - Cornelius Bros and Sister Rose - YouTube[/ame]
 
Great thread Mad Dart thanks for keeping it updated.

If you are using the FAST dual sync distributor, I'd like to see what results you get. From what I could find around the net, it seems that the rotor is phased forward (advanced) from the factory and won't work well for boosted applications.
 
saapbaad said:
Great thread Mad Dart thanks for keeping it updated.

If you are using the FAST dual sync distributor, I'd like to see what results you get. From what I could find around the net, it seems that the rotor is phased forward (advanced) from the factory and won't work well for boosted applications.
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It is set up 70* BTDC on #1. I called their tech line yesterday to figure out the dual wheel configuration for the pick up on the crank and cam signals. The Megasquirt 3 has the provision in the set up so i believe it should not be an issue. I'll post a picture later today of that page in Tuner Studio.

View attachment Screen shot 2011-10-14 at 10.50.20 AM.jpg
 
Louis DUDE!!!!

That motor looks soo rad sitting in the car! You gotta make the rest of the car look as pimp now!

It will be a thing of beauty, that runs like a MotherF$%^ker!
 
Rocker'sDuster said:
Louis DUDE!!!!

That motor looks soo rad sitting in the car! You gotta make the rest of the car look as pimp now!

It will be a thing of beauty, that runs like a MotherF$%^ker!
Click to expand...

Hey Chris,

That engine is the Mock engine....... Yeah, I need to get with your painter!
 
I am pretty sure I found the articles online that you are referring to. In the cases that I found the end users did not phase the Distributor Correctly and that is why they are showing 30* advanced at the Rotor. There are specific instructions on how to set this up. If this step is done incorrectly you will have timing problems. You also need to verify that the timing you have set with the light is the exact same as the timing map you have set up in your tune. If it is off it will be off also and you will for sure be chasing your tail all day.

There are 2 ways to set up the distributor. The first one is using a 1 Degree reference angle, the other is using a 50 Degree angle. The 50 Degree is the most accurate.

Here are the instructions......


Fifty degree reference angle installation instructions:

Remove rotor to verify that module is mounted in the 50 degree position, if not, remove two module mounting screws, and shift the module to the 50 degree position, replace rotor.
Rotate engine to 50 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke.
Disconnect the negative coil (coil trigger) wire.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Install distributor with the rotor pointing in the general direction of the number one cylinder.
With the red wire connected to 12V, the ignition key in the run position, and the “Cam/Hall Effect” plug connected, rotate the base of the distributor counterclockwise until the cam LED illuminates, then continue counterclockwise until the next crank signal (crank LED illuminates).
Move the base of the distributor back and forth until you find the leading edge of that crank signal, lock down the distributor and you’re finished.

The distributor is now timed and phased properly for a fifty degree reference angle! Connect all spark plug and coil wires before cranking the engine!
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Did some more research and if for some reason after setting up the Distributor per the instructions and your Rotor Phasing is off, This Phasable Rotor will fix this issue.

Guys are saying don't worry if the rotor is 30* off from the Cap Post and that the spark will make the JUMP? Well I do see an area for a problem when you start advancing the timing it could get way off..........I also found out that the Fast Dual Sync Distributor is an MSD just repackaged!

Here is the part.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-84211/
 
Still waiting on a few parts to get here. When it is installed in the car I will be running 1 of these pumps as the main and the others will be used as dead head pumps to be turned on at a set boost pressure of say 4psi. After they are activated I will program the Megasquirt to turn them off at say 15% of the TPS.
I will be using the stock tank with a sump added to it that has an 3 an fittings welded into it. 2 for fuel and 1 for return.

View attachment phpuM1YsPPM.jpg

View attachment phpIpKil6PM.jpg

View attachment phpJCDAGRPM.jpg

View attachment phpCpC3IsPM.jpg
 
Dyno was pushed off again until Oct 27th & 28th due to Carcraft again. I am fine with it. It gives me some time to build the 2 new circuits for the 2 extra fuel pumps and make sure I have all my ducks in a row! Going to change up the plumbing a bit after realizing where I am actually going to mount the fuel pumps.
 
Are they paying for the dyno time? If so I agree wait. If not I am bummed out I wanna see it run
 
03ramit1 said:
Are they paying for the dyno time? If so I agree wait. If not I am bummed out I wanna see it run
Click to expand...

No they are not paying for the Dyno Time. It would be a good thing for Brian and the Tuner to get in the Magazine for a chance at more business. I am doing it to possibly help them in that way.
 
for the past 2 weeks ive felt like a teen girl on prom night....... the aticipation is killing me get it done already!!!!hahaaa

all jokes aside its good u can get all the ducks in a row instead of just slappin her up there!! lets go 1000 horse!!
 
I am going to wire the fuel pumps as follows.

1 Pump will be used as the main pump but all 3 relays will be activated on the HOT side when the ignition is turned on. The 2 Auxiliary Fuel pumps will just need ground to the relay to turn them on. I will use 1 of the spare trigger wires in the MS3 Expansion Board to activate them with 2 set values. 3000RPM or 2PSI of Boost the Hysteria setting will be .50 PSI for them to shut off. This is the most fail safe way to wire these so if Over Boost or Rev Limiter etc gets activated it will cut all the pumps from fuel at once! If for some reason I run short of fuel using 1 pump as the main, I can easily have 2 pumps as the mains and have the 3rd one kick in say at 4000RPM or say 6PSI of boost or whatever. I will be separating the 12V Feed Line into 3 Separate Fused 20 Amp Circuits straight off a Battery Feed. I have the Relay board done complete and just need to add the other 2 Circuits and it will be Dunn like Dinner! haaaa
 

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