Uneven tie rods and adjusters? Steering wheel alignment weirdness

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okan74duster

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Hello all,

Currently working on my 74 Duster. Just did an alignment myself at the base garage and noticed a few things;

1) My passenger and driver side tie rods and adjusters are not even. I dont understand because it drives straight and the machine says the toe is good.
2) Noticed my steering wheel is not perfectly centered oh so slightly (or maybe Im the only one that can see it) so I pulled the steering wheel and drove around and tried to find its center. I marked it with a marker so I know how far I am adjusting. Noticed that no matter how minute the adjustment, it will be an over-corrected (either left or right side higher). I noticed that there is a gap in the steering wheel "gears" (dont know what its called) so I centered that notch to the adapter notch, and now my steering wheel seems straight(er)

With all this said, does that notch have anything to do with the tie rods being uneven? If I am predicting right if that notch is at the 12 o clock then my wheels will pointed to the left and that will demand the passenger side tie rods to be extended and the driver's side shortened for the wheels to be pointed forward?

This is all weird because the alignment machine told me to steer to the left, and then right, to find the center of the steering wheel.

Thank you in advanced.

DF9F7977-6EB0-46DA-8F14-638AD8E27254.jpg


IMG_3648.jpg


IMG_3647.jpg
 
Looks and sounds like you need to put the gear box in the center of its travel and then realign it. You may need to relocate the steering when when done.
 
The tie rod adjusters should be very close to the same length, and the master spline on the steering shaft should be centered. You can set the toe correctly and have the adjusters be unequal if the steering box is not centered.

Your aftermarket steering wheel adapter may not work correctly with the master spline on the steering shaft, so that may be a separate deal. The more important thing is to get the steering box centered and the tie rods close to equal length.

So, center the steering box so the steering gear is in the middle of its range of travel. There should be a small "on center" spot that is obvious when you center the box. Don't worry about where the wheels point when you do that, your adjusters aren't equal so they won't be straight. Once the steering box is centered, adjust the tie rods so the wheels point straight ahead and then set the toe. When that's done the steering wheel itself should be centered, but again that may be a separate issue with that aftermarket adapter.
 
72bluNblu said:
There should be a small "on center" spot
Click to expand...
^^^^ Yes. This is called high point on steering boxes. Manual boxes you can feel it,it feels tighter at high point.
You didn't say if it was manual or power. Power is a bit harder to "Feel" but it is there.
Best is to disconnect linkage at the box pitman arm to get your box centered. At that you can adjust your tie rods for straight ahead.Adjusting them equal lengths, reconnect the pitman arm then make your final toe setting.
The aftermarket steering wheel adapter (Grant) does not have a master spline like a factory wheel.
You will have to adjust the wheel till it is driving straight. 1 or 2 splines makes a big difference.
I just had mine off to find a horn problem and I had to move mine on the splines to get it right a few times.
 
If the tie rods are not equal length when the wheel is centered the turn radius may not be equal from left to right and you may get more bump steer with unequal tie rod length.
Alignment is not a "thing" it is a reading of suspension angles.
Toe is always adjusted after the camber and caster are adjusted.
 
Also it should be mentioned that if your tie rod ends are not equal, your alignment changes through wheel travel are not the same. Toe-in is tough to get right! I had this on my avatar until I put the SPC adjustable UCA's on it. Those solved my caster issue and the toe-in change through wheel travel problem as I centered the wheel and equalized the tie rid end lengths.
 
Team,

Thank you all.

So in summary, these are the things I need to do;

1) Remove the steering wheel and identify the master spline and make sure its at 12 o'clock and lock it in that position
2) Disconnect the pitman arm
3) Adjust the tie rods
4) Refine the toe
5) Replace the steering wheel

Sounds about right? Or should 2 and 1 be switched?
 
okan74duster said:
Team,

Thank you all.

So in summary, these are the things I need to do;

1) Remove the steering wheel and identify the master spline and make sure its at 12 o'clock and lock it in that position
2) Disconnect the pitman arm
3) Adjust the tie rods
4) Refine the toe
5) Replace the steering wheel

Sounds about right? Or should 2 and 1 be switched?
Click to expand...
No. The first thing you need to do is find the center of the gear box. Then reset toe so the wheels are straight. Then evaluate WHERE the steering wheel is. Once you do that, report back. Why on Earth would you remove the pitman arm if you don't have to? You may, but you may well not. The only way to diagnose THAT is to find the center of the gear box first.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No. The first thing you need to do is find the center of the gear box. Then reset toe so the wheels are straight. Then evaluate WHERE the steering wheel is. Once you do that, report back. Why on Earth would you remove the pitman arm if you don't have to? You may, but you may well not. The only way to diagnose THAT is to find the center of the gear box first.
Click to expand...
I may have misunderstood "Best is to disconnect linkage at the box pitman arm to get your box centered" directions above, ok I will work on it in like 5 or so hours
 
okan74duster said:
Is that as simple as lining up the notch to the 12 o'clock position? Or is there a procedure I need to do?
Click to expand...
Count the number of turns of the steering wheel lock to lock, divide by two, then count that number back to center and that will be very close to the center of the gear box. Example: For simplicity's sake, let's say it's 5 turns lock to lock. Now, starting at one lock, turn the wheel back 2.5 turns. Understand? Then note where the wheels are pointing. Now, come up with a way to "lock" the wheel where it is at the "halfway" position and then reset the toe pointing the wheels straight ahead without moving the wheel. Once that's done, you should be very close to the center of the gear box. Then you can see about moving the wheel itself back to center, if it is not.....and it probably won't be.
 
Like Rusty and Blu said, count the turns divide by 2...life is too short to worry about my steering wheel being perfectly straight. I gave up and got it close enough. I hate those Grant steering wheels btw
 
Welp, don't know what's going on. Tie rods are still uneven.

I steered it through to the left then right, counted 4(ish) turns. And it ends up in the middle at 2 (ish) turns. Don't know what's up but I feel something squirty when I turn it to its limit either to the left or right. But that's for another time I guess.

I have not pulled the steering wheel to check for the notch since I was told to ignore it for right now.

The steering wheel is straight now and also it drives straight. BUT THE DAMN TIE RODS ARE UNEVEN :BangHead::wtf:

Here is the underside. Had to do an oil change since "might as well"

IMG_3676.jpeg
 
It drives straight and the steering wheel is centered... perhaps it might not have the correct ideler or pitman arm. If one of those parts were off another platform, the business ends would probably work, but if one or the other was too long or short it could throw the geometry off.
Drive it around for a couple weeks and see what it feels like.
 
You SHOULD be able to tell where the aftermarket whell adapter belongs. Don't you have the stock wheel? Compare the master spline in the original wheel. But it also seems to me the master spline is "even" that is, either up or down when centered. The coupler is keyed. It can be upside down if the coupler has been taken apart and assembled 1/2 turn off. IE the steering shaft master spline should either be correct or 1/2 turn off
 
Did you readjust the tie rods?
 
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