What’s the best rods for the build

-
D

Duster2022!

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2022
Messages
290
Reaction score
37
Location
indiana
I’m building a 440 big block the block is a 78 year stamped with a cast crank I want to go with some aftermarket rods but not sure which ones would suit me best I was told that for this bill that I want to do I need to have the rods reg grind to a .10 not too sure which the best rods to go with
 
Duster2022! said:
I’m building a 440 big block the block is a 78 year stamped with a cast crank I want to go with some aftermarket rods but not sure which ones would suit me best I was told that for this bill that I want to do I need to have the rods reg grind to a .10 not too sure which the best rods to go with
Click to expand...
Rebuilt factory rods will be just fine, unless you're building something semi extreme
 
Reconditioned LY rods would be just fine.
 
Duster2022! said:
It’s a 537 hp build, from Hot Rod magazine from 2016 article.
Click to expand...
Okay, factory rods with arp bolts will be fine. 440 source also has some budget rods, speed master has decent rods with arp bolts. I would go with any of those but then there's more expensive stuff but really not necessary.
 
Duster2022! said:
I’m building a 440 big block the block is a 78 year stamped with a cast crank I want to go with some aftermarket rods but not sure which ones would suit me best I was told that for this bill that I want to do I need to have the rods reg grind to a .10 not too sure which the best rods to go with
Click to expand...
Take a look at the 440 source stock replacement rods and compare to the cost of having your stock rods magnafluxed and reconditioned with new rod bolts.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Okay, factory rods with arp bolts will be fine. 440 source also has some budget rods, speed master has decent rods with arp bolts. I would go with any of those but then there's more expensive stuff but really not necessary.
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
Duster2022! said:
Are those rods ok with cast crank?
My block is a 78. I haven’t taken it apart yet I bought it with heads in it so not sure what type of connecting rods are in it
Click to expand...
Just be advised the further you sway from factory components, balance will be needed.
 
Any H beam rod. Better metallurgy & uses a bigger bolt [ 7/16" ] v factory 3/8". And the H beams use bolt only, not nut & bolt. The greatest benefit over the factory rod is the factory has a cut in the shank to take the bolt head; that weakens it. H beams do not have this built-in weakness.
 
Duster2022! said:
It’s a 537 hp build, from Hot Rod magazine from 2016 article.
Click to expand...
At 537 hp, the oem rods will do just fine on a cast crank.
The lighter rods help but are not needed. If your looking for the little bit of an edge and an advantage, the lighter rods will help able the engine to rpm quicker.

FWIW, it’s not an advantage that will not really show itself or be a measure advantage since your in the street.
 
Try to find a forged crank for $125 or under locally. With people doing stroker kits, there might be some around. And easier to find a balancer for.
 
The factory stuff takes a lot more punishment than folks give credit for. I'd run reconditioned factory forged rods over whatever cheaply sourced base level/cheap offering from 440 source. And with those rods you still would be advised to swap to better bolts.
 
Mean416 said:
The factory stuff takes a lot more punishment than folks give credit for. I'd run reconditioned factory forged rods over whatever cheaply sourced base level/cheap offering from 440 source. And with those rods you still would be advised to swap to better bolts.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
Mean416 said:
The factory stuff takes a lot more punishment than folks give credit for. I'd run reconditioned factory forged rods over whatever cheaply sourced base level/cheap offering from 440 source. And with those rods you still would be advised to swap to better bolts.
Click to expand...

There is no way a 50 to 60 year old factory rod is better than a new 4340 H-beam regardless of where you buy it at.

Metallurgy is superior in new rods to OEM rods, larger diameter bolts, cap screw bolts clamp tighter, and a lot of aftermarket rods are lighter than OEM.

Now if you buy a Molnar rod you know you're getting real ARP bolts because they source them from ARP and install then at their shop in Michigan when doing the final honing.

If your dealing with junkyard parts and you have no real money in an engine that's one thing, but for what it cost to build even an economy engine today, let alone

something you have $10,000 in WHY would you ever take the chance and running a 50-60 year old OEM connecting rod with who knows how many cycles it has on it?

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
There is no way a 50 to 60 year old factory rod is better than a new 4340 H-beam regardless of where you buy it at.

Metallurgy is superior in new rods to OEM rods, larger diameter bolts, cap screw bolts clamp tighter, and a lot of aftermarket rods are lighter than OEM.

Now if you buy a Molnar rod you know you're getting real ARP bolts because they source them from ARP and install then at their shop in Michigan when doing the final honing.

If your dealing with junkyard parts and you have no real money in an engine that's one thing, but for what it cost to build even an economy engine today, let alone

something you have $10,000 in WHY would you ever take the chance and running a 50-60 year old OEM connecting rod with who knows how many cycles it has on it?

Tom
Click to expand...
We know you want to sell some Molnar kit ;). You'll be first on my list when I need some quality reciprocating components.

That said, I am not convinced that the stock Mopar rods are insufficient for this application. Also, show me the data about metallurgy. I've studied mechanics of materials and it all was very established stuff, i.e. that **** was all figured out a long time ago. Like a century or more. There's no rocket science or exotic materials out there I. Aware of, with regards to alloy steels. Not in our arena anyway.
 
Bewy said:
Any H beam rod. Better metallurgy & uses a bigger bolt [ 7/16" ] v factory 3/8". And the H beams use bolt only, not nut & bolt. The greatest benefit over the factory rod is the factory has a cut in the shank to take the bolt head; that weakens it. H beams do not have this built-in weakness.
Click to expand...

The 440Source "stock replacement" rods use 7/16" capscrews and are modeled after 426 Hemi rods. They currently have a clearance deal on "blem" RB rods, set of 8 for $150... description says balance was either slightly out of tolerance or small end was honed slightly too large for press-fit pins so they could be used with floating pins or have bronze bushings added.

BLEM Connecting Rods RB with Capscrew bolts - Set of 8
 
Where are you at in Indiana? I just pulled apart my 440 that I used for the last 2 seasons and installed a stroker kit. I have a forged crank, LY rods and .030 over KB hypers. The rotating assembly is in good shape and already balanced. I'm in Richmond Indiana if you'd like to check them out- I will make you a deal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top