LocuMob
Fluid Technician
Swapped out cars
What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?
- Thread starter MobileCustoms
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Swapped out the points ignition and switched over to factory mopar electronic ignition on the engine test run stand.
All dialed in running on the electronic ignition now. Now checking out and running the NOS mopar brain boxes I have on the shelf to make sure they run right when the time comes to use them.
All the NOS brain boxes check out fine, running good and starting good.
Next test coming up is to install the HEI Ignition Module onto a stock mopar electronic ignition distributor. Waiting on the HEI module to come in, have the aluminum adapter plate here now.
Then I will test this setup on the 360 on the test run stand to see how that works out compared to the stock mopar setup.
@318willrun did a write up and a video on this HEI conversion, so I am following his lead on this one. Looks like a nice simple setup and may deliver a hotter spark.
Looks like a nice setup, will see how it works.
☆☆☆☆☆
All dialed in running on the electronic ignition now. Now checking out and running the NOS mopar brain boxes I have on the shelf to make sure they run right when the time comes to use them.
All the NOS brain boxes check out fine, running good and starting good.
Next test coming up is to install the HEI Ignition Module onto a stock mopar electronic ignition distributor. Waiting on the HEI module to come in, have the aluminum adapter plate here now.
Then I will test this setup on the 360 on the test run stand to see how that works out compared to the stock mopar setup.
@318willrun did a write up and a video on this HEI conversion, so I am following his lead on this one. Looks like a nice simple setup and may deliver a hotter spark.
Looks like a nice setup, will see how it works.
☆☆☆☆☆
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
Had to take it to work, for a shake down of what's going on with it. 
Giving it a tune up tonight, replace some rubber fuel lines, rear brake hose, bleed it sometime this weekend, and find a clunking noise in the rear. Then start out towards Carlisle.
Giving it a tune up tonight, replace some rubber fuel lines, rear brake hose, bleed it sometime this weekend, and find a clunking noise in the rear. Then start out towards Carlisle.
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diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Which one is yours?Had to take it to work, for a shake down of what's going on with it.
View attachment 1715759605
Giving it a tune up tonight, replace some rubber fuel lines, rear brake hose, bleed it sometime this weekend, and fink a clunking noise in the rear. Then start out towards Carlisle.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
The good looking one.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Nice Chevy
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
My friend down the street has an impala just like that oneNice Chevy
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
I usually hear Phord.Nice Chevy
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
I put a car up for sale, I feel dirty.
skep419
No show, all go!
getting the stuff I wanted off this parts car. Bumper must weigh 100 pounds.
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- Joined
- Jan 8, 2012
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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Fired the Fish back up and at first no noise! Starting smiling until it warmed up a bit! A tick that is now on the left side! Not the bad racket it was making from the right side when I shut it off Memorial Day weekend. A metallic tick none the less! Let it run about 15 minutes and it did not go away! Oil pressure was 65 at idle. Left cover is going to be a bear to pull! I think I will pull the intake and valley pan for a better look. It would be easier! It is surely not dropping a cylinder and hitting on all 8.
My bore cam let me see all the lifters on both sides from the right head previously and nothing looked abnormal.
Maybe I will pull the dizzy and look some more with the camera first!
The noise is seeming up higher in the engine and best heard at #3 cylinder using the old screwdriver to the ear method!
My bore cam let me see all the lifters on both sides from the right head previously and nothing looked abnormal.
Maybe I will pull the dizzy and look some more with the camera first!
The noise is seeming up higher in the engine and best heard at #3 cylinder using the old screwdriver to the ear method!
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Intake is officially bolted on. No more mockup. 
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
So, where are you gonna sit and have breakfast tomorrow?
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
My kitchen table. I have room now.
I have room now.
Using it as a table for the moment!
Jeff
Jeff
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2012
- Messages
- 7,098
- Reaction score
- 4,247
May just take it out tomorrow and see what blows! I am a bit “torn” and if it is going to fail then so be it! 7 years running on a 1986 complete rebuild that was stored for 25 years why now? Part of me says save the block and part of me says run it till if fails! I still have that 400 that could be a nice stroker!
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72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Got passenger side plug wires on & 1 heater hose and Radiator. Running out of room quickly. Why didn't someone tell me heater core hose is 1/2 inch & 5/8.
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Got quite a bit done this weekend. All belts and hoses are on and cooling system has been filled. Basically just needs plugs, cap and wires and fuel lines and carb
Only Chevy guy's run a motor until it blows, us Mopar guy's don't have many spare blocks left, getting lesser and lesser by the day
Just for the fun of it to see if this Mopar HEI Conversion will work. Test fired it on Saturday.
Think it still needs one of those hot fire e-coils that puts out 40,000 volts plus.
For anyone following along on the wiring of this, I had the Mopar Distributor plug leads on backwards in these pictures below. Had to switch around the red and blue leads on the module. Dark Brown wire from the distributor is ground. The orange/white wires are the signal. Ran lots better after the switch.
High Energy E-Coil needed to go with it yet. Runs good, but drops off at slow idle. Think it needs the High Energy Coil to make better spark at low rpm to go with the HEI module.
New E-Coil coming in on Friday, will test again.
Think it still needs one of those hot fire e-coils that puts out 40,000 volts plus.
For anyone following along on the wiring of this, I had the Mopar Distributor plug leads on backwards in these pictures below. Had to switch around the red and blue leads on the module. Dark Brown wire from the distributor is ground. The orange/white wires are the signal. Ran lots better after the switch.
High Energy E-Coil needed to go with it yet. Runs good, but drops off at slow idle. Think it needs the High Energy Coil to make better spark at low rpm to go with the HEI module.
New E-Coil coming in on Friday, will test again.
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DrCharles
Well-Known Member
I see the problem... the distributor is on the wrong end of the engine
If you think that's tight, try a big-block
(or if you're a real glutton for punishment, a 426 Hemi)...
OK Yep, this is just what the mopar HEI ignition conversion needed, the hotter spark from a High Energy E-Coil.
Went to the local You-Pull-It and picked up an assortment of E-Coils and their 2 prong + & - plugs, and an assortment of used HEI plug wires. Good to have things to experiment with.
Took care of the problem of it dropping off at idle, now running 100% just like the factory mopar ignition. But the E-Coil is now running on the full 12 volts, no ballast resistor needed, and the coil is running cool.
The mid 80s Ford F150 dual post E-Coils are simple, clearly marked + & - and you can snip their plugs at the You-Pull-It yard. Nice simple deal to wire in.
I am pretty sure this is going to produce a hotter spark with the full 12 volts and the E-Coil output of 40,000 plus volts.
Will be keeping an eye on the plugs, expect them to be whitening up.
Success, so thanks to @318willrun for posting up the how to video of how to do this.
Wanted this setup for other distributor ignitions too. Works with 4 cyl, 6 cyl & V8s as long as you have the proper magnetic signal electronic distributor that originally came with your engine.
I have a good 1974 Ford 2.3 4 cyl overhead cam engine that needs the rest of the ignition to make it work, have the magnetic electronic distributor that's in that engine right now. So just need to add in the HEI as above and it should be golden.
☆☆☆☆☆
Went to the local You-Pull-It and picked up an assortment of E-Coils and their 2 prong + & - plugs, and an assortment of used HEI plug wires. Good to have things to experiment with.
Took care of the problem of it dropping off at idle, now running 100% just like the factory mopar ignition. But the E-Coil is now running on the full 12 volts, no ballast resistor needed, and the coil is running cool.
The mid 80s Ford F150 dual post E-Coils are simple, clearly marked + & - and you can snip their plugs at the You-Pull-It yard. Nice simple deal to wire in.
I am pretty sure this is going to produce a hotter spark with the full 12 volts and the E-Coil output of 40,000 plus volts.
Will be keeping an eye on the plugs, expect them to be whitening up.
Success, so thanks to @318willrun for posting up the how to video of how to do this.
Wanted this setup for other distributor ignitions too. Works with 4 cyl, 6 cyl & V8s as long as you have the proper magnetic signal electronic distributor that originally came with your engine.
I have a good 1974 Ford 2.3 4 cyl overhead cam engine that needs the rest of the ignition to make it work, have the magnetic electronic distributor that's in that engine right now. So just need to add in the HEI as above and it should be golden.
☆☆☆☆☆
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Speed Junkie
Matthew
Day 2 of taking out rusted floorboards in my car to install new ones
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