What is your burnout strategy on a very hot track?

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RockinRobin

RockinRobin

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Will be going to a track this Saturday where the air temps are supposed to hit 97 degrees and the sun will be shining. How do you alter your burnout on a track like this? More heat in the tires to match the track? less heat?
 
Well I stop in the water and after one of the cars is staged I pull out of the water and stop. In second gear (powerglide) I quickly wing it up and count to five and pull
Out hard under power. Clean it out once or twice and stage. I usually count to three but last weekend with the high temps that wasn’t getting it done.
 
Would be good to say your ET weight, and tire size.

I have a 3600 lb 12 sec car with 9” slicks, I do less of a burnout on hot days.

if I spin a little the fast cars are complaining loudly how bad the track is.

Probably doesn’t help you Much
 
I can honestly say I really don't change my burnout strategy during the course of the year. I start out in 1st, grab 2nd as soon as I hit the throttle, shift to drive around 5500 and hold it there until the rpms drops a tad. Than I release the line loc and burn out towards the starting line. It helps that I have a 10.70s ladder bar car with a 13" slick. I definitely have more tire than motor, but that helps on those hot greasy days when the faster cars may struggle a bit.
 
Ok, so far 1 vote for shorter burnout and 1 vote for longer burnout.
moparstud440 said:
I can honestly say I really don't change my burnout strategy during the course of the year. I start out in 1st, grab 2nd as soon as I hit the throttle, shift to drive around 5500 and hold it there until the rpms drops a tad. Than I release the line loc and burn out towards the starting line. It helps that I have a 10.70s ladder bar car with a 13" slick. I definitely have more tire than motor, but that helps on those hot greasy days when the faster cars may struggle a bit.
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If you have a torqueflite, I would highly recommend that you start your burnout in 2nd gear instead of first.
 
413 said:
Would be good to say your ET weight, and tire size.

I have a 3600 lb 12 sec car with 9” slicks, I do less of a burnout on hot days.

if I spin a little the fast cars are complaining loudly how bad the track is.

Probably doesn’t help you Much
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I would think that those specs would have more to do with your burnout strategy in general. I was asking about changing your standard burnout if the track is very hot.
 
Smoke em if you got um! :thumbsup:

And to answer your question, shorter burnout and frequently check tire pressure. On hot days I am letting 2-3 psi out of the tires between rounds.
 
I just went through this this past weekend. im running 29.5 x 10.5 MT my first round It was 95 I did my usual smokey burnout my sixtys were way off that day.
 
No change in strategy for me as I'm no John Force anyway. I start in 1st but immediately click into 2nd then 3rd (Cheetah shifter). Hold for a couple secs til rpm starts to drop a little and I can see a bit of haze. Then let off line-loc and lift off throttle. Then 1 quick dry hop and stage.

But I too have more tire than motor and the car hooks well. New M/T 28/10.5-15W's on a car that runs low 11's.
 
a firestone tire rep, told me, always have temp difference between track and tire, hotter track have a colder tire temp, cold track, hotter tire temp , at a very hot track, i went back to doing a dry hop, only, car hooked way better, just food for though, btw, it's a clutch car here also, i loosen up front end for better wgt transfer.
 
perfacar said:
a firestone tire rep, told me, always have temp difference between track and tire, hotter track have a colder tire temp, cold track, hotter tire temp , at a very hot track, i went back to doing a dry hop, only, car hooked way better, just food for though, btw, it's a clutch car here also, i loosen up front end for better wgt transfer.
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What kind of tires? Slicks? Race car? What kind of E.T.? I've been told that only clutch cars benefit from dry hops nowadays.
 
we were at div race one time, track was hot, automatic cars did dry hops, same as i did, they hooked better, thing is, if you get tires too hot, they develop gumballs, like driving on marbles, can't hook up, this from tire rep. just food for thought, each there own. btw, was 9 " slicks,. another thought, we test temp across tire, surface want same temp across tire, old circle track trick
 
On a real hot track I do the shortest quickest burnout possible. Typically I am pretty quick out of the water anyway, but when its hot and the sun is beating on the track, I make it even a little quicker out of the water and quicker off the throttle. Does it work? I don't know, it seems my car hooks fine on hot days. I would read different tire manufacturers burnout FAQ. Mickey says start day with a stronger burnout and then as the day goes on it can be shorter. Hoosier says do a burnout til the tire starts to "haze" then proceed to starting line. I believe they both say the main point of the burnout is to clean the tread surface of any debris. Regardless, I would say if you shorten the burnout on a hot track, I don't think you will compromise any runs. Will it help or hurt? Guess there is only one way to find out.
 
Well got to the track last night for tnt and one slick was flat! Found the leak and plugged it. Made 4 passes and it held air all night. Track prep was terrible, only time it hooked was after track was dragged and sprayed. An hour later it was slick again. Hoping they will do a better job for the race tonight. 97 degrees and 65% humidity. Can't stay out in it long or I melt!
 
What’s your setup
Tire size
First gear ratio
Rear gear ratio
Rear suspension
Front suspension
Transmission
Rear wheel size
 
pittsburghracer said:
What’s your setup
Tire size
First gear ratio
Rear gear ratio
Rear suspension
Front suspension
Transmission
Rear wheel size
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Setup- 1970 duster calvert split monoleaf caltracs on top hole calvert 9 ways on #3
Footbrake car
-dana60 4.56 gears
727 torqueflite no idea 1st gear ratio
front is slant 6 torsion bars and calvert 90/10 shocks.
-29.0×12-15 Hoosier tubeless slicks 12.2 to 12.5 psi
car 60 foots 1.42 on well prepped track. Unfortunately only 1 track in the area does good track prep and I'd like to race every weekend.
 
RockinRobin said:
Setup- 1970 duster calvert split monoleaf caltracs on top hole calvert 9 ways on #3
Footbrake car
-dana60 4.56 gears
727 torqueflite no idea 1st gear ratio
front is slant 6 torsion bars and calvert 90/10 shocks.
-29.0×12-15 Hoosier tubeless slicks 12.2 to 12.5 psi
car 60 foots 1.42 on well prepped track. Unfortunately only 1 track in the area does good track prep and I'd like to race every weekend.
Click to expand...


Hmmmm. Sounds pretty solid. You may be forced to move into a bigger slick since you are dealing with bad track prep. someone messaged me about setting up caltracks and I couldn’t help them due to having them on my heads up car but never racing it. I recommended checking out yellowbullet as there used to be a long tech post on setting them up. Could you pull some timing at the hit. Lots of guys doing it.
 
RockinRobin said:
Setup- 1970 duster calvert split monoleaf caltracs on top hole calvert 9 ways on #3
Footbrake car
-dana60 4.56 gears
727 torqueflite no idea 1st gear ratio
front is slant 6 torsion bars and calvert 90/10 shocks.
-29.0×12-15 Hoosier tubeless slicks 12.2 to 12.5 psi
car 60 foots 1.42 on well prepped track. Unfortunately only 1 track in the area does good track prep and I'd like to race every weekend.
Click to expand...

IMO, the BEST money you could spend right now to improve your car is a set of double adjustable shocks.

I can’t emphasize how critical a double adjustable shock is. If you can tune for bump and rebound separately you will always fight your chassis.

You may need the rebound really lose to hit the tire and the bump incredibly stiff to keep the tire from rebounding back up off the track.

Or maybe you need to stiffen up the rebound to hit the tires less and keep the bump really stiff to keep the tires planted.

Or any combination in between. You can’t do that with a 3 or even a 9 way single adjustable shock.

Regardless of what Calvert says, those single adjustable shocks are at best a horrible compromise. At best.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Hmmmm. Sounds pretty solid. You may be forced to move into a bigger slick since you are dealing with bad track prep. someone messaged me about setting up caltracks and I couldn’t help them due to having them on my heads up car but never racing it. I recommended checking out yellowbullet as there used to be a long tech post on setting them up. Could you pull some timing at the hit. Lots of guys doing it.
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Pull timing would be the 1st thing for me to try because it doesn't cost anything. The car hooks every time on a well prepped track no matter the weather, so I'm trying to avoid throwing $$ at it unless I have to. Had to plug one of the slicks Friday night as it came off the trailer with a leak in it, so I'm already spending $$ on that this week. Only went 2 rounds Sat. night and start line spinning was the difference between a win and a loss. I was on the tree all weekend. 1 red light in TNT (-.005) and every other light was .01 or better so I felt good about that, since I footbrake and no transbrake or 2 step. I saw guys with .04 lights saying they cut a good light and it was giving me hope that if I could run my number I would have a chance against these guys. Next week is at the good hooking track so I hope to do well there.
 
^^^^ .010 lights or better footbraking?? I don't stand a chance!! I did have a .008 today but that was luck. 4th round red-eye (-.009) did me in!!
 
Demonx2 said:
^^^^ .010 lights or better footbraking?? I don't stand a chance!! I did have a .008 today but that was luck. 4th round red-eye (-.009) did me in!!
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Yeah, problem is I have to race guys that transbrake. There are several NHRA tracks that don't allow transbrakes in the no electronics class and that gives me an even chance, but they are a long drive and don't have bracket racing very often. .00 anything red will really make you cuss, I've been there. Hey at least you made 4 rounds!
 
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