When was the last time you saw one of these (mystery race engine purchase)

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Good eye! That is a scratch from some poor soul battling it out with a spirolock. One eeason I like to use Mahle pistions is the wire lock. Spirolocks are awfully complicated for what they accomplish.
I usually never have an issue with spirolocks, except my own pistons I had made a mess, I was in a hurry and not getting paid though lol.
 
I did not know that. Aside from old school deck-mounted boring bars I am only familiar with the Sunnen ck10 and it's variants. This thing won't see north of 600hp so we should be good to go.

My plan is to use my last set of Stealths and maaaaaybe try some comp Evo hydraulic roller lifters. The only thing I am really lacking is an intake manifold. I was shooting for 525tq/525hp territory unless I get some sort of a sign lol
If you end up wanting to do a simple solid flat tappet cam I think I have a perfect old isky grind that will get you what you want for numbers.
It's the Z-35 grind. You will get a "great guy" discount.
Also I have an Edelbrock rpm intake 440
 
I had a chance to mic the pistons. All of them come in at 4.3693-4.3704 with the exception of #4 (4.3665) amd #3 (4.3674). I think I'll be good to go between .005-.006 PtW clearance.

The next step will be cylinder bore inspection using a dial bore gauge. Hopefully a few strokes of the hone, two pistons and a set of rings will take care of the short block.

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I didn't notice where two pistons were damaged. If they are just too small for your liking just have line-2-line coat them and be done IMO. You're doing good work as usual!
 

I didn't notice where two pistons were damaged. If they are just too small for your liking just have line-2-line coat them and be done IMO. You're doing good work as usual!

One cylinder sppears have had water in it. I'll keeo L2L in mind aa we proceed.

WIth respect to the cam- I'm still crunching numbers on a hydraulic roller. Not having an intended application for this engine (stock stroke 440 soon to have 440 source heads) I'm at an impasse on the direction of this project.

I'm going to commandeer the EZ -1's for our GTS (511", solid roller) and use the Stealths currently on the GTS to rebuild my wounded 451. That leaves me with an OOTB set of Stealths for this 440. After that I'm out of engine parts.
 
I found this picture in and old ad on A Bodies.

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That’s nothing,,,,I don’t just have a picture of it but I have an actual kit that I bought years ago at the Mopar Nats,,,,,I purchased it probably 25 years ago and I’m guessing it is 35 years old or better .
Completely new,,,just opened to inspect,,,and taped the box back shut .
Top quality from good old Mopar .

Tommy

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The crank needs to come out and get mic'd and polished. There is an ugly spot on the #7 rod journal. It's likely to be caused by an overzealous installer having the rod twisted in the bore when installing the piston/rod assy. I've seen this before. Check out the holes they drilled in this thing-

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The crank needs to come out and get mic'd and polished. There is an ugly spot on the #7 rod journal. It's likely to be caused by an overzealous installer having the rod twisted in the bore when installing the piston/rod assy. I've seen this before. Check out the holes they drilled in this thing-

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I would expect to see the counterweights turned down or flats milled into the top radius of them as opposed to drilling that much material out of the crank.
 
I would expect to see the counterweights turned down or flats milled into the top radius of them as opposed to drilling that much material out of the crank.
We have a sheet at work that tells how much weight is removed by drill sizes and depth.
I think it's the easy way, especially if the shop doesn't have a crank grinder.
 
We have a sheet at work that tells how much weight is removed by drill sizes and depth.
I think it's the easy way, especially if the shop doesn't have a crank grinder.
Yes, factoring volume (and the following weight by density) of a cylinder is going to be easier than for a circular segment of the counterweight or the outer radius of the counterweight.
 
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