Who wants a mopar turbo kit?!?!

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Yes, regulator is boost referenced. Because a blow through carb hat sits over the bowls, if you don't increase fuel pressure with boost, it will actually push fuel through the bowl vents and push the fuel BACKWARDS through the lines!

No water/meth. Straight pump E85.
 
I would be interested, I am currently looking into a turbo build and this would really simplify things for me. Turbo technology sure seems to be overwhelming so any help is appreciated whether its designing or installing. How long do you think it will take you to get the pricing together.
 
With the exit facing the rear and pointed down, yes. But for the turbo you flip the manifold so the outlet faces the front and up, so you can run it to the turbo.

Oh, Right! Tells us how much I know about turbo's
 
watch'n and I'm seriously interested. I've been wanting to build a smallblock for a long time. this would put me at the power levels I'm looking for in a smallblock.
 
There is no aluminum head. I believe that was his point. Nothing about boosted slants, just that someone has a great idea that may or may not go anywhere.

P.s., I don't think anyone has boosted an aluminum slant to prove what you stated.

Its been a while since I've seen one. I do remember that the head is unique to the aluminum block, because of the water jacket and cylinder wall construction.

There was an article run, either on slantsix.org or in mopar collector's guide, about turbocharging the slant six, with some example pictures of what it does to the aluminum engines. They give out at the top of the cylinder sleeve.

Anyway, yeah I can see how an aluminum cylinder head for a slant six would be a task/ not yet available.

If I come by the article, I'll post it up for anyone curious about what it did to that engine.

The standard iron block slant six is actually one of the best engines to boost, because of it's high bolt count per cylinder and head layout.

I'd still love to have a turbo motor at some point. Not sure when or where.

I've got a set of turbo headers that I tig welded up and low comp pistons that I could jam into the Scamp, but that engine is built for N/A, down to the cam and valves.

The headers that I built clear power steering and the stock battery location. I thought about building a jig for holding the tubes in place, to reproduce the headers, but I got lazy. lol Manifolds are more street friendly and produce less heat.

I want a rear mount system for my rig.
 
Alternator is a 2000 Ford Taurus version, flipped and modified for the RH side.

A ford part on a mopar... Let the bashing begin!!! LOL

Just kidding. I dig that car. One of my favorite mopars, fast and ugly! That's a compliment. Much better with the hood on it now. I too, have followed your build on moparts.

I'll probably build something like this for an A body. Potential for 9.0 range in a light A Body!
 
A ford part on a mopar... Let the bashing begin!!! LOL

LOL... to be totally honest there is a reason for it... I did a poor job laying out the pulley alignment when I started. What happened was that I got so far into the original design, I found out that I had the pulley's waterpump set rearward too far. The standard mopar alternator was too thick and ended up hitting the front of the drivers side cylinder head! I had to search through boxes and boxes of alternators at the autoparts until I found a "thin" design that I could make work.

Like I said... my new kits will be "simplified" in a lot of ways.

As for timing on releasing these... I refuse to release these for sale until I have some test time on them. I will have the working prototype done pretty soon, but I can only do so much on the dyno. Since I live in Michigan, I need to let the snow clear before I can get some in-car testing done!!!
 
Two thumbs up on this! Awesome project to take on for the benefit of us all! Can't wait to see the production kit in action...
 
LOL... to be totally honest there is a reason for it... I did a poor job laying out the pulley alignment when I started. What happened was that I got so far into the original design, I found out that I had the pulley's waterpump set rearward too far. The standard mopar alternator was too thick and ended up hitting the front of the drivers side cylinder head! I had to search through boxes and boxes of alternators at the autoparts until I found a "thin" design that I could make work.

Like I said... my new kits will be "simplified" in a lot of ways.

As for timing on releasing these... I refuse to release these for sale until I have some test time on them. I will have the working prototype done pretty soon, but I can only do so much on the dyno. Since I live in Michigan, I need to let the snow clear before I can get some in-car testing done!!!

Chicken? What's wrong with icy streets, snow tires and 700hp? :)

All good with whatever alternator you put on it. I have a Camry alternator on one of my cars. You got to make stuff fit. Clean looking set up! Even better it's in the ugly package. :cheers:
 
Chicken? What's wrong with icy streets, snow tires and 700hp? :)

All good with whatever alternator you put on it. I have a Camry alternator on one of my cars. You got to make stuff fit. Clean looking set up! Even better it's in the ugly package. :cheers:

LOL... maybe I just need some studded tires to get testing sooner?!

New kits will use stock alternators... I just finished the E-body layout yesterday, and the alternator re-location.

Coming along nicely.
 
With the exit facing the rear and pointed down, yes. But for the turbo you flip the manifold so the outlet faces the front and up, so you can run it to the turbo.
How do you flip a LA/MAG manifold so it faces up and still bolts up? Swap forward yes, upside down...Not. Nice build, you including the blow through carb? What A/R is your suggested turbo, 1.03?
 

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You actually swap left hand to right hand, not upside down. So they face forward and down, not forward and up.

A/R depends on combo...defiantly not a one size fits all. The turbine wheel diameter is probably more crucial then the A/R for sure.
 
How do you flip a LA/MAG manifold so it faces up and still bolts up? Swap forward yes, upside down...Not. Nice build, you including the blow through carb? What A/R is your suggested turbo, 1.03?

You actually swap left hand to right hand, not upside down. So they face forward and down, not forward and up.

A/R depends on combo...defiantly not a one size fits all. The turbine wheel diameter is probably more crucial then the A/R for sure.

Yeah, you don't, they point down, my mistake.
 
I've met Dizuster and saw his car at the monster mopar weekend in Norwalk. Nice guy and his craftsmanship on that car was awesome.
 
So what will be in the kit? Personally I'd like to see a recast exhaust manifold with a turbo mount on it.
 
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