Why won't upper ball joint removal socket work?

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Do the high quality American made ones fit snug? Everyone says you have to use a long breaker bar and really pull hard to get these loose. This one doesn't fit snug and slips off easy. I'm afraid if I pull hard it will slip off and I will fall backwards.

Used Snap on #S9365A Ball joint sockets are available on Ebay for a reasonable price. Do they work better?

Thank you JDS Duster for your offer. I live in southern Indiana near Louisville. It would be easier to get a good one on Ebay.
 
Back in the day thousands where sold to mechanics off of the Snap- On tool truck and they were made in the USA.
 
pipe wrench?
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Lotta Chinese stuff is bad (like brake line fittings that are the wrong thread, lower control arm bushings that don't quite fit, etc.), but I don't blame the Chinese, who can make good stuff (viz, engine parts for OEMs). I blame the Americans responsible for having replacement parts/tools made in China at the cheapest price possible and failing to make sure the parts meet the standards of the original made in USA stuff.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I have had to pound mine on. Actually, usually have to.
and use a 3/4" breaker bar
with a 4ft pipe on it,
me laying down
with my feet firmly planted on the frame
and yanking for all I'm worth.
Wear a helmet.
Yes the socket should be shaped the same as the BJ.
Yes there are three sizes; one each for 72 and older Arms, 73 and newer Arms, and pick-up trucks. I can't see how anyone could mix them up.
I wouldn't use an air impact on it, in situ, on account of, if the socket blows up, it's coming for you.
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And add to wear thick leather welding gloves while doing this for when you slip!!
 
toolmanmike said:
How many do you need? The Sunnex are Chinese (they have been in the tool business for decades) but tough as nails. OTC is good stuff but spendy. Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
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I have 2 pairs of Sunnex 1/2" drive impact socket sets. They are well over 25 years old & they were made in Japan. I didn't think they would hold-up very long, I was wrong. I used them to remove lug nuts from Peterbuilt trucks & never broke one. Stlll have them & use them to this day. They probably sold out to a Chinese company & I doubt the quality is near as good.
 
Take the arm off and put the nut in a vice upside down. The A-arm it self will give you all the turning leverage you need.
 
niceolddart said:
I have 2 pairs of Sunnex 1/2" drive impact socket sets. They are well over 25 years old & they were made in Japan. I didn't think they would hold-up very long, I was wrong. I used them to remove lug nuts from Peterbuilt trucks & never broke one. Stlll have them & use them to this day. They probably sold out to a Chinese company & I doubt the quality is near as good.
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I was wrong. Sunnex is Taiwan. They used to be crudely made but a lot better lately. I sold big impact sockets and a lot of big wrench sets.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I have had to pound mine on. Actually, usually have to.
and use a 3/4" breaker bar
with a 4ft pipe on it,
me laying down
with my feet firmly planted on the frame
and yanking for all I'm worth.
Wear a helmet.
Yes the socket should be shaped the same as the BJ.
Yes there are three sizes; one each for 72 and older Arms, 73 and newer Arms, and pick-up trucks. I can't see how anyone could mix them up.
I wouldn't use an air impact on it, in situ, on account of, if the socket blows up, it's coming for you.
Click to expand...
If you don't push with your feet on the car while you pull on the wrench, be careful you don't pull the car off the jack stands! Ask me how I know! :wtf::lol:
 
I don't think I have seen a reference to what I am about to ask. Just because you have a 73 Dart, that does not 100% mean you have a 73 A Body front suspension. At some point in time a previous owner could have had a problem and wound up getting front end parts from a 69 Barracuda. As long as you replace the right parts, they would fit. Could you please provide an accurate measurement of the ball joint side-to-side? That will determine what you need. If it is the size I have, I'll mail you mine as a loaner. When you are done, mail it back.
 
Thank you for your generous offer. If I need to get another one I will just buy a used Snap On From Ebay. The car has been in my family since new so I'm fairly certain I am dealing with original parts installed at the factory. The ball joint is 1 inch and 59/64 ". I measured it. That is what the ball joint socket I purchased is labeled. See my original post in this thread.

My question is: Do all these ball joint sockets fit loose? Do the Snap On ones fit tighter? It seems to slip off easily before I can get a good pull on it.
 
Lasalle said:
Thank you for your generous offer. If I need to get another one I will just buy a used Snap On From Ebay. The car has been in my family since new so I'm fairly certain I am dealing with original parts installed at the factory. The ball joint is 1 inch and 59/64 ". I measured it. That is what the ball joint socket I purchased is labeled. See my original post in this thread.

My question is: Do all these ball joint sockets fit loose? Do the Snap On ones fit tighter? It seems to slip off easily before I can get a good pull on it.
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Please refer to post #9 from @65 Cuda 340. There will be a tiny bit of "slop", but not too much. I also really liked #28 by @pishta . I actually successfully used a large pipe wrench to remove both front ball joints on my 69 Barracuda many years ago. I bought the correct socket before reassembly. I guess I overread the fact that you measured the ball joint. My bad.
 
They work great turning down the LCA torsion bar sockets to relieve the stress on the bars to get them to slide out too, and aid in getting them back in. Plus they are usually pretty cheap at HF.
 
You may need to press down on the socket while pulling on the ratchet or breaker bar. It can be difficult to push down on the socket, when using a ratchet with a long handle. Here's where a helper is useful. If this doesn't work, then its probably just a cheap Chinese tool. Just a little historical note. Twenty years ago the Snap -On socket sold for $53.00.
 
townsend said:
You may need to press down on the socket while pulling on the ratchet or breaker bar. It can be difficult to push down on the socket, when using a ratchet with a long handle. Here's where a helper is useful. If this doesn't work, then its probably just a cheap Chinese tool. Just a little historical note. Twenty years ago the Snap -On socket sold for $53.00.
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That is exactly why I made my own.
 
UPDATE I acquired a used Snap On brand socket on ebay. That was more than 1/16" smaller diameter than the cheap Autozone/OEM brand I got first. The Snap On socket worked like it was supposed to on one side. I had no trouble. On the other side however, the facets on the ball joint were deformed by the cheap socket slipping off. Now even the Snap On socket will not get a grip. Now what? I tried to have a helper press down on the breaker bar while I pushed and that did not work. I am concerned a pipe wrench will deform the threads in the ball joint. Even though the ball joint will be replaced could it ruin the threads in the A arm on its way out? Somebody suggested Removing the A arm and putting the ball joint facets in a vise. I don't think a vise will grip it?
 
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Lasalle said:
UPDATE I acquired a used Snap On brand socket on ebay. That was more than 1/16" smaller diameter than the cheap Autozone/OEM brand I got first. The Snap On socket worked like it was supposed to on one side. I had no trouble. On the other side however, the facets on the ball joint were deformed by the cheap socket slipping off. Now even the Snap On socket will not get a grip. Now what? I tried to have a helper press down on the breaker bar while I pushed and that did not work. I am concerned a pipe wrench will deform the threads in the ball joint. Even though the ball joint will be replaced could it ruin the threads in the A arm on its way out? Somebody suggested Removing the A arm and putting the ball joint facets in a vise. I don't think a vise will grip it?
Click to expand...
A big pipe wrench
 
Lasalle said:
UPDATE I acquired a used Snap On brand socket on ebay. That was more than 1/16" smaller diameter than the cheap Autozone/OEM brand I got first. The Snap On socket worked like it was supposed to on one side. I had no trouble. On the other side however, the facets on the ball joint were deformed by the cheap socket slipping off. Now even the Snap On socket will not get a grip. Now what? I tried to have a helper press down on the breaker bar while I pushed and that did not work. I am concerned a pipe wrench will deform the threads in the ball joint. Even though the ball joint will be replaced could it ruin the threads in the A arm on its way out? Somebody suggested Removing the A arm and putting the ball joint facets in a vise. I don't think a vise will grip it?
Click to expand...
Get a cheap socket too small to go all the way down on it and weld the socket to the ball joint.
 
cudamark said:
If you don't push with your feet on the car while you pull on the wrench, be careful you don't pull the car off the jack stands! Ask me how I know! :wtf::lol:
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It's for that very reason I don't use a breaker bar. I use an Ingersoll 3/4" impact wrench. It will even break tack welds.
 
Back in my dumber days, I figured I`d get all fancy and fab up a press out of a big ol C clamp. Worked great, then I found out they were threaded. DOH!
I had to tack the new one in. Good to go:lol:
 
UPDATE I welded a socket to the ball joint and I got it out. Thanks to all who responded. I tried a pipe wrench but could not get it to grip even on the lower cylindrical part. The grease did not help.
 
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