I'm getting ready to install my windshield and rear window and I've been looking at some "how to" Youtube videos and noticed in one of them they installed the mylar strip in the seal before they installed the windshield it self in the car. It was beening done on a old VW rabbit converitble but it's same type of seal. Has anyone done it that way?
Windshield Mylar install Question
- Thread starter Valkman
- Start date
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WhyteRoots
Well-Known Member
VALKMAN, I'm listening in here. My '67 Valiant's windshield and back window are in good shape. The rubber seals look okay but the mylar strips are falling apart. Also, I'm missing most of the stainless steel corners and joiner pieces.
The shop manual is not real clear about the following:
- Is the rubber weatherstrip all one moulding or is it in two parts?
- Does the mylar strip lock the rubber weatherstrip in place?
- Can the mylar be replaced without pulling out the rubber and glass?
- Will the glass stay in place if the mylar is pulled out?
- How are the stainless pieces fastened?
- Are the mylar trim and these stainless pieces available?
The shop manual is not real clear about the following:
- Is the rubber weatherstrip all one moulding or is it in two parts?
- Does the mylar strip lock the rubber weatherstrip in place?
- Can the mylar be replaced without pulling out the rubber and glass?
- Will the glass stay in place if the mylar is pulled out?
- How are the stainless pieces fastened?
- Are the mylar trim and these stainless pieces available?
65Val
Average Length Member
The mylar strip is called a "lockstrip" and should be installed after the windshield goes in, to "lock" it in place. Install it on a nice,warm day....leave the car in the sun for a while to soften up the rubber gasket, then get some liquid dish soap and coat the lockstrip and the channel in the rubber gasket and install using one of those plastic windshield install sticks.
Back in Time
Well-Known Member
Apparently there are difference's in quality depending on who manufactures the lock strip.My windsheild company must have used a "cheapie" since after 3 months the "chrome" is turning yellow in spots.I'm waiting for a call back to see what they probably won't do about it.
Rocky_JS
'cuda
The factory lock strips were garbage and within a few months shrank and the chrome corners/ joiners would fall off.
As stated, mount the gasket on the lip, then the glass goes into the gasket, then the mylar lock strip which locks the glass into the gasket.
My glass guy has a tool that the strip goes into and then goes into the channel and stuffs it right in as he pulls it around.
As stated, mount the gasket on the lip, then the glass goes into the gasket, then the mylar lock strip which locks the glass into the gasket.
My glass guy has a tool that the strip goes into and then goes into the channel and stuffs it right in as he pulls it around.
I use go joe hand cleaner.And wash after with lots of water will remove oil and finger prints.Iinstall rubber on windshield .Run string in body grove put windshield in place. Pull one end of string from in side car have a friend keep lite presure on wind shield from outside. then in stall locking strip east wood has a tool for that . remember lots of gojoe will not hurt anything
Here's link to the video I was talking about, different car but same type of seal: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvAbUVbuyEs"]How to Install a VW Rabbit Windshield Seal on the Windshield - YouTube[/ame]
Rocky_JS
'cuda
My glass guy does not use sealer on the frame/ gasket, but does use a light bead on the glass/gasket lip seal.
How long since you've had it installed? I take it you've had no problems with leaking?
Rocky_JS
'cuda
It has been 3 years, but we "only" get rain 9 months out of the year here lol. No leaks so far and a new gasket was used.
Seansmopar
Well-Known Member
I did a R & I on a 65 barracuda and was pretty simple...clean glass and gasket of oil use good glass cleaner don't use anything that leaves residue...I like to set gasket outside in sun for awhile let it warm a bit while your prepping glass..set glass on sturdy stand something soft with outside down...start gasket on a corner and work your way to other corner, stretch gasket if needed to get a nice crisp 90 degree...gasket should go on a little snug.. Try to get a hand from someone to help you if you never done this before...after gasket is on use clothing line rope around 1/4 inch thick or slightly smaller preferred to insert into gasket tight where the gasket goes onto the pinch weld...after ropes in tape rope off on inside of glass, flip glass over carefully with someone and use good masking tape or duct tape and tape gasket to glass all the way around.. Flip glass over again and use 3m wet type silicone spray to spray just enough to cover gasket where it will recess into body, spray by rope..but stay away from tape side use cloth to wipe it around gasket...with someone place glass on pinch weld making it symmetrical to top and bottom and side by side...then get comfortable on inside of car grab the rope and pull towards the center of the glass, you or your help may have to smack on glass with palm to help it recess along with some pressure..when installed remove tape from outside glass to gasket... I noticed the glass had a lot of room in gasket after installed, so with 3m silicone, spray gasket on outside real generous for lock strip if you have a glass can opener tool to install it will be easy.. If not you may want to use the plastic paddle shown in previous thread.. You can always tape off paint on outside but preference you do before you use silicone spray...also if you do not have corner clips you may have to cut lock strip at 45 degree angles..take your time at this back glasses can not be bought new and clean used ones ar expensive..good luck and any questions ill try to answer....Sean
WhyteRoots
Well-Known Member
Thanks everybody. So I'm hearing:
- Is the rubber weatherstrip all one moulding or is it in two parts? SINGLE RUBBER MOULDING.
- Does the mylar strip lock the rubber weatherstrip and glass in place? YES.
- Can the mylar lock strip be replaced without pulling out the rubber and glass? YES. A SPECIAL HAND TOOL MAKES THE JOB EASIER BUT IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT IT.
- Will the glass stay in place if the mylar lock strip is pulled out? ONLY DURING THE INSTALLATION; THE MYLAR LOCK STRIP IS NEEDED TO HOLD THE GLASS PERMANENTLY.
- How are the stainless pieces fastened? STILL DON'T KNOW, DOESN'T MATTER - SEE BELOW.
- Are the mylar lock strip and these stainless pieces available? MYLAR YES, TRIMS NO. MYLAR SHOULD BE MITRED AT CORNERS SO THAT CORNER TRIMS ARE NOT NEEDED.
ALSO:
- a thin bead of sealant should be applied to the glass-to-gasket joint. Sealant is not needed at gasket-to-body joint (see question below). Only lubricant (a thin dish soap solution?) should be applied to the mylar lock strip.
- if glass and gasket are being removed and reinstalled, the clothesline rope trick is described here. It's done from inside the car.
- anytime the glass is removed from the car, GET HELP. Original windshields and backlights are too expensive to risk mishandling on your own.
- if using silicone lubricant, avoid getting ANY on the car's paint. It can play havoc with future paint repairs. Maybe better not to use silicone at all. Armor-All has the same nasty effect - use it on tires only.
MORE QUESTIONS:
- Is there any harm in sealing the gasket-to-body joint, if leaks have been a problem?
- Is using water-soluble hand cleaner as a lubricant safe for gaskets and mylar lock strips?
- Is the rubber weatherstrip all one moulding or is it in two parts? SINGLE RUBBER MOULDING.
- Does the mylar strip lock the rubber weatherstrip and glass in place? YES.
- Can the mylar lock strip be replaced without pulling out the rubber and glass? YES. A SPECIAL HAND TOOL MAKES THE JOB EASIER BUT IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT IT.
- Will the glass stay in place if the mylar lock strip is pulled out? ONLY DURING THE INSTALLATION; THE MYLAR LOCK STRIP IS NEEDED TO HOLD THE GLASS PERMANENTLY.
- How are the stainless pieces fastened? STILL DON'T KNOW, DOESN'T MATTER - SEE BELOW.
- Are the mylar lock strip and these stainless pieces available? MYLAR YES, TRIMS NO. MYLAR SHOULD BE MITRED AT CORNERS SO THAT CORNER TRIMS ARE NOT NEEDED.
ALSO:
- a thin bead of sealant should be applied to the glass-to-gasket joint. Sealant is not needed at gasket-to-body joint (see question below). Only lubricant (a thin dish soap solution?) should be applied to the mylar lock strip.
- if glass and gasket are being removed and reinstalled, the clothesline rope trick is described here. It's done from inside the car.
- anytime the glass is removed from the car, GET HELP. Original windshields and backlights are too expensive to risk mishandling on your own.
- if using silicone lubricant, avoid getting ANY on the car's paint. It can play havoc with future paint repairs. Maybe better not to use silicone at all. Armor-All has the same nasty effect - use it on tires only.
MORE QUESTIONS:
- Is there any harm in sealing the gasket-to-body joint, if leaks have been a problem?
- Is using water-soluble hand cleaner as a lubricant safe for gaskets and mylar lock strips?
65Val
Average Length Member
I just use dish soap for the lockstrip install...nice and slippery.
Rocky_JS
'cuda
Safe as anything try to keep out of direct sun let the sealer dry overnight and wash all the residue off later water soluble will wash away with water.
WhyteRoots
Well-Known Member
Danke sehr, good answers!
Put my glass in yesterday (front & back). This is deffinatley a 2 person job and thanks to the help from Tadams on the board we were able to do them both in about 5 hrs total. I used a 1/4" nylon rope to help install it a flexable sealant on the body side and a urethane type sealant on the glass side to insure a good seal. The front was pretty straight forward but the rear had some tricky angles and took some time to get it in place. I waited to install the Mylar locking strip till after the glass was in place, and with the tool listed above and some spray can window cleaner it went on with a little prying. The lock strip went around all the corners exept for the rear corner near the trunk. The old gasket had a right angle clip to connect the ends around this corner but I just cut a 45 degree notch in the Mylar and filled the cracks with silcone and it seam to do fine. It was a bit messy using the sealant but witha rag and some mineral spirits it was an easy clean up. A glass shop quoted me over $300 to install just the front windshield (others wouldn't do at all) alone! I'm glad I did this myself! (with a little help!)
WhyteRoots
Well-Known Member
You're a brave team. Thanks for the inspiration for us owners to tackle this straightforward job ourselves.
The only rubber supplier with whom I've dealt is Steele Reproductions. They're really a GM specialist and don't have any glass gaskets for A-body cars (they do offer a trunk lid seal). Who is a good supplier of rubber and mylar lock strips for our cars?
The only rubber supplier with whom I've dealt is Steele Reproductions. They're really a GM specialist and don't have any glass gaskets for A-body cars (they do offer a trunk lid seal). Who is a good supplier of rubber and mylar lock strips for our cars?
Rocky_JS
'cuda
Whyte I just got gaskets from Steele for my 67 barracuda? What are you trying to find window gaskets for?
There are only a couple manufactures of these gaskets most are selling those including Steele. I shop for price.
There are only a couple manufactures of these gaskets most are selling those including Steele. I shop for price.
The Seals I used were made by Precision Gaskets and the Mylar strips were included. I think I paid around $80 for the rear and bit more for front seal. I cant remember where I got but I think it might have been here
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/65/plymouth/barracuda/weatherstripping.html?3594=1935
Can one of you show, or better describe what you mean by mitering the mylar at corners or cutting it at a 45 deg. angle? Thanks
BarracudaDave
Well-Known Member
I am in the process of purchasing window gaskets as well. 1965 Barracuda. Very confusing. I am seeing about a 50% swing in prices for the same parts. Steele seems to be the high end for a windshield gasket at $142.20. Car Parts Discount above seems reasonable at 92.15. Classic Industries has them even cheaper if you use their frequent discount offers. Going by the pictures supplied, Classic looks like the correct shape. The windshield gasket is unique in this car because it also serves to hold the front edge of the headliner. The inside top of the windshield gasket is very large. I don't see that in any of he pictures from the other suppliers. Maybe they are just stock photos?? I always feel better if I see a picture of the correct part. Has anyone used the Classic Industries gaskets? I am waiting for my next discount code to purchase gaskets. I don't need them yet. Have to finish the paint first.
I just cut a notch in the Mylar and Filled the crack with sealant, It's not a perfect angle but from a distance it looks fine.
One other the gasket I got are not a perfect fit their are a few gaps here and there. I guess if I worked with it some it may have fit better, but I'm OK with it.
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