Yard Sale

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Still looks pretty slow

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I agree. Just a touch more. My next move will be to give the front suspension some live.. it feels a little “loose” right now.
 
I have been putting some miles on the new engine and addressing some issues. My voltage regulator went south and my voltage was just over 15volts driving around. Ended up overheating my coil. That caused some really interesting ignition problems. I replaced the voltage reg and mounted a new coil to the firewall ( removed it from the manifold) so far so good. However, I’m seriously considering swapping to a denso alternator In the near future. But have other checklist items before that... like, running new transmission cooler lines and fittings this weekend. Mine have been spliced, tweaked and banged on.. and like to leak.. I have all the parts that I should need to swap the lines out. Let’s see if I can avoid a blood bath of tranny fluid on my driveway! Also picked up couple of tuning tools. I bought a AEM widband and a draggy. Have already installed the wideband ( will probably move gauge location). It gives so much information, we did a couple of pulls to get an idea of how the af numbers are. Currently running little fat at cruise and wot. I have some jets coming. Didn’t really need the next “tool”. I bought a Dragy to give me sone real numbers to look at.

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It’s never easy is it? Luckily I’m not surprised by random stuff anymore. I started removing the original trans lines this afternoon. Was working slowly, trying to catch as much atf as possible. Was removing the fittings from the trans.. it moved more sideways than counter clockwise. Yep.. the fitting broke nice and flush with the case. I don’t have my nice stubby extractors here with me. I’ll bring them home tomorrow. Just decided to push on and work through it.

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Little guy was in there pretty damm tight. I have used many different types and styles of extractors.. these snap-on are by far my favorite.

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The trans cooler line install went pretty smooth. I even had my son assist making a couple of retaining brackets to keep the lines Away from the headers. All serviced up and secure... no leaks = stoked.
Also changed my leaking diff cover seal while it was in the air. I put a couple of pics up. So yeah, let’s go to our spot and play with our new Dragy. Fooled around some, ended up making a couple of back to back test runs. I noticed the temp was like 210-215. Not a big deal, was just going to cruise it until temps come down some. Then do another run and head to the house. Just trying to learn where this setup is happy with launch Rpm and shift points. Anyway, driving down the road and my son is like Dad, it’s starting to rain? Ugh, I don’t think so. Quickly found a spot to park it. Turns out it wasn’t rain, my fan and lower hose had a chance meeting. Luckily it didn’t get hot at all. Ended up just leaving it and Uber home. That’s one advantage have having a crappy looking car, people don’t look twice.

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You can see in the scabbed in lower hose. I always knew it was an issue, and was going to address it soon. Guess sooner that I thought. Replacing the radiator is obviously the way to go. However, this current setup does a very good job. I also wanted to get it back up like pronto ( radiator change is in my future). The nasty flex hose was just something I picked up from summit when I was placing a order. It really wasn’t ideal. So, I cracked open my parts book and found one that would work. It ended up being a much better fit and with plenty of clearance. I even installed the fan shroud! Everything is serviced and happy, back on the road.

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Now. To the fun stuff. A friend of mine recommended getting a Dragy. Basically I very accurate GPS. I’ve been doing very short runs just trying to learn where it’s happy shifting and launching. Shifting at 6k seems to give the best number. My real issue is launch. If course I went right up in the converter the first couple of times...nothing but tire spin. With these drag radials they just keep spinning, can’t just pedal it like bias tires. I really have to lift to stop them. Anyway, I’ve lowered the launch rpm. 2800 and let it toll out before I hammer it.. still more spin than I want. Started adjusting tire pressure, 17 seems to work well. Even with that it seems like it just powers through the tires. I haven’t checked piñon angle since I installed the new springs. Crawled under and got to it. Currently sitting at 2 down. I ordered up some 2 degree shims last night. ( almost orders rear shocks too). Should have 4 degrees with the shims. We can go from there. Keeping in mind I’m working with stock shocks and a front that needs attention. As is I’m seeing mid 4 second 0-60 and my 60’ is around 2.0
If I can get that down 2-3 tenths I’ll be happy.

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Few parts showing up. Getting things together to get my front end sorted out, well as my piñon angle.

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Decided to start getting my front end tighter and less sketchy. Replacing the upper ball joints and upper control arm bushings. I also picked up some nice strut rods. Luckily my lower control arm bushings have been replaced at some point. Just need this turd to track straight and not get weird when I lift from a pull.

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Decided to get the front end wrapped up. Ended up throwing a set of the summit adjustable drag shocks up front. It’s currently on 80/20 and doesn’t seem to happy about coming up on the gas. I’m really leaning towards the rear shocks (stock) not allowing the rear to work. So, that may be the next part going in. If I come off the converter at 3000 and do anything more than feather the throttle... it’s spinning. Also got tired of looking at the cracked dash and steering wheel, I picked up a blue dash cover and all old lace up steering wheel cover ( found on eBay).

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Here is a video of me leaving pretty soft. Any more aggressive on launch or how hard I roll in results in spinning. Its obvious to me that that the chassis is just not transferring the weight to the rear. Really leaning towards getting some proper shocks under the rear of it.

 
Big brain fart on that video. I forgot that I had pumped these rear tires up couple weeks before. They were at about 26... usually keep them about 16 when I’m dickin around.
 
Once again pulling this engine. Have not been super happy with this cam. First plan... hydraulic ft cam, then solid ft. Turns into heads are coming off ( already off) and having them checked out and done port work done. That slippery slope now has me changing the valves and springs for a solid roller. I’ll be looking for OT and side work before it’s all over.

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will you swap in an early water pump while the motor's out so the outlet's on the right side for your radiator? a simple spacer for the pulley and the belt alignment will be the same. i've just got one for my valiant as my big block radiator has the bottom fitting on the driver's side too like yours. nicer than cutting and soldering on the rad' to move it over.
neil.
 
Here is a video of me leaving pretty soft. Any more aggressive on launch or how hard I roll in results in spinning. Its obvious to me that that the chassis is just not transferring the weight to the rear. Really leaning towards getting some proper shocks under the rear of it.


Sounds NICE mate !!!!
 
Thanks. Engine is currently out. Needed to look t the bottom end. I wound up with some main bearing problems. Ended up installing another crank all together. Also replaced the rings.. I was a little aggressive on gapping the last set. I really thought I was gonna hit it with a big shot. Heads are currently out having some legit port work done and a custom grind solid roller cam.
 
The new top end has been taking longer than I expected. I miss driving it.. and pushing it around really sucks. So I picked up a set of iron 360 heads with 1.88 valves. Spent a couple of days getting the bowls cleaned up and everything put back together. Was hot to get it in while I had help yesterday after work.

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