Yard Sale

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We are out of the garage and back on the road.. always takes longer than you expect. Here's a few pics from along the way
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Cool car, cool thread and even cooler son. He is the best part of this build. I love seeing the younger generation take interest and part in these old cars. This will be with you both forever. Congratulations to both of you. This project is awesome!
 
I basically had this 8.8 ready to slide under before I stuck this turd back in the garage. I had only tacked the perches onto the axle, I wanted to measure the pinion angle with everything bolted up and weight on wheels. I did have to adjust the perches, very glad I waited to burn them in. I was planning on using the lower spring plates from the explorer, but after some trail fitting it was obvious it wasn't happening. The explorer runs one shock in front and one in the rear of the axle. I ended up picking some nice thick spring plates from an off-road shop. I used the explore u-bolts. At this point the axle was under and bolted in, I started looking at driveshaft options. I was half tempted to just call the local driveshaft shop and have them make one up. But being budget minded I headed back out to the yard with a tape. I was looking for about 50" cl-cl. I started crawling under every 8.8 vehicle I saw. The best I found was an aluminum unit from a 4x4 six cylinder explorer. It was just a hair over 50.5". I figured it would still be cheaper to have it shortened than a new driveshaft. For chits and giggles I crawled under this yard sale with my new driveshaft. I had everything at ride height and weight on wheels... I was trying to line up the slip yoke and the driveshaft using the eye ball method. It was looking like I had 1" of pullout with this shaft! I sourced a conversion u-joint to go from the little 904 yoke to the 1330 that my shaft has. Once the part was delivered I got right to getting it all together and installed. All said we are just under 1" of slip yoke pul out, perfect world I would like a little more but it should be fine for this build.
 
At this point I was able to get it out of the garage under it's own power and VERY limited brakes. Front brakes only, rear brakes have not been sorted yet. I did a little short drive and parked it out front. It was very nice to have my garage back.
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During this time I found myself helping a friend out with his truck. He's pushing it hard to make SEMA. Its a 27 dodge cab with LS power, going twins with it. Lots of friends helping but also lots to do. Check out the gutted mock engine.
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Look into the explorer 8.8 sticky thread. I found a company that will custom make the rear parking brake cables as hybrid cables to fit your 69 valiant body and the explorer parking brake. I worked with them to make the prototype cables. It's near the back end of the 8.8 thread www.bruinbrakecables.com.

I think somebody else on the thread stated the inner cable part needed to be a couple inches shorter, but you still can get adjustment on them.
I only mocked up the rear cables as fitment on a chassis I was scrapping.
 
So, back to the brakes. I was short sighted with the rear disc, totally downplayed the brake line setup in my head. I was just like, "I'll just run sone new hardline and call it done". Well, not really. These are rear disc and need to float. I considered using the little stubby factory rubber line, then going hard to the original brake union. But, I didnt feel like fooling with all that. New plan.. new factory rear brake hose, factory Tee union, inverted flare to an-3 adapters , 24" braided -3 brake line and finally an-3 banjo fitting into the stock ford calipers. I MIGHT have a $100 in all of this stuff. I got it all installed and bled tonight. I still need to mount the brake union on top of the diff and secure the lines better than I did.... but i really wanted to do a shakedown run!
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Did a quick nut and bolt / fluid check and headed out. It runs MUCH better with the 3:73's! It pulls better from roll than before. I think its more than the gears, it would try and bog for just a moment before... now it just hits hard no hesitation. I think the added engine speed ( I guess that is due to the gearing change) helps it when you crack the carb wide open. Anyway, I still wish I had another 100hp. I also had the chance to launch off the converter, I'd been very curious about this. I can foot brake until 2500-2600, side step the brake and pin the throttle. Dead hooks and moves out pretty good. Seems to have a slight bog right off the brake, almost like it wants more stall (or more torque). This little 235 drag radials are doing exactly what I wanted them to do! We cruised over and had a burger before heading home.
Next big step is getting the fuel and ignition ready to support a 125 shot. Well, all that and full hubcaps!
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Really cool man. I love how your son is helpin you kick its butt. Yall are really gettin with it.
 
They have a PN# for each rear cable I helped prototype. The part numbers are on the 8.8 sticky thread. I think left cable is $30, and right cable is $35. Not worth trying to rig something up when these are plug n play
 
Small driver update. I was expecting these brakes to be marginal at best. Non power, front disc conversion and now rear disc, kinda making the best of the parts I had on hand. Plan was to get it all together and modify from there, again I wasn't expecting much. I was very pleased that it stops very strong with only moderate foot pressure. Looks like we are good to go for now. I may put a gauge on the calipers in the future just to see what the pressures look like.
 
That’s good to hear as I’m going to be running a similar setup and was a little concerned at how factory disc front/explorer rear discs were going to feel with a non boosted master.
 
Ive been playing with gauge location. The oil/water and tach has ended up in the glove box. I still need to reinstall the glovebox door and hinge. This location is not ideal, but it keeps them out of sight.. thats what I wanted. Realized I wanted a volt gauge, I saw a dual usb /digital voltage readout that would fit where my lighter lived. Ordered it up for like $8 from ebay, totally down and dirty but it does what I need.
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Ive had this on the back burner while I was caught up in some other automotive mayhem. However, I did play enough to break it. I realized why it felt down on power on the 1-2 shift. Seems that sometime in the past the low/reverse band was adjusted incorrectly. Basically it was never backed off after the initial torquing. So I was basically powering through the band and drum as I went through the gears. I have a local trans ninja and he got me all fixed up. After the install I ran my best 0-60 at 5.6 seconds. This engine is on the “loose” and weak side. I really need to get the 360 assembled before this 318 gives it up.
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Parked the old girl in front of the garage this evening. I’m planning on painting the wheels body color, or at least close to it. Trying to soften up the look of it. I’d like to run full caps on her, maybe in the future.

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After looking around at some rattle can color options I came across gloss canvas white from Rustoleum. Its not a dead match, but good enough for what I'm doing this time around. Im looking to take the edge off that the black steelies give it. I made the best of stuff I had in my garage.. these wheels did not get a primer coat. I prepped them with some 220 followed by some red scotch brite. Blasted with some air and wiped down good with alcohol. I only have two caps, decided to run them on the driver side.

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