You learn something new everyday. How long will an LA small block hold up at 550 horsepower

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B3422w5 said:
We don’t know if something is an underachiever unless we know what it runs and weighs, and what the combo is though, do we.
I have nothing against Brian, by all accounts he runs a nice shop.
As a business owner myself, it’s good business to sell the sizzle. Like I said, knowing how stuff ultimately runs says a lot about the validity of the numbers.
For my part, I am not gonna assume the two guys with the 650 horse heads put them on doggy running combos without track numbers And or more information than just saying they made 650 horsepower.
As I mentioned earlier, I wasn’t upset to hear that heads I was proud of and ran good (W5) didn’t break 300 on two very,very respected benches.
Numbers, I have found by personal experience, don’t mean ****. it didn’t embarrass me, it was just reality. Is what it is.
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It's been a while, but one engine went into a challenger I believe, in Az and went 9.90...full bodied car so probably around 3500lbs. or so.
The other went into a Dart, I believe in Colorado so I'm pretty sure it's raced at Bandimere...that engine had nitrous put on, but before that he ran a best of I think 10.50's, maybe a 10.40 something before the nos...with nos it's gone 9.70's.
When I built Mopar Billy's engine (on Moparts) we used the AirWolf heads, 11:1, solid FT cam, 410cid, and that made 606Hp on my dyno 4 times in a row...so well ported TA heads with a roller cam and 13:1 making 650+HP seems legit to me...cars ran good, but I've done some other engines with Indy heads, high compression, etc...that made 700HP and the cars were all over the place...all because of poor chassis/converter setups. I don't have time slips, you don't have to believe a word I say...I was merely trying to show that the TA head seems to be an easier way to get more power than plugging the pushrod holes in an eddy head and moving them over for more power/rpm.
They also come setup for BB mopar rockers (more ratio available using TD rockers), 3/8 bolt holes for the shafts, 5/16 stem guides and valves, and OOTB they flow on my bench about 260-265 cfm which is a great starting point for the DIY porters out there.
 
LMAO! Funny ****.

I can’t invest in such equipment. It’s not the price, it’s the worth and worth of return not to mention space limitations even if I had a 40 X 40 shop. LOL!

When I’m messing with an engine, all I want is a machinist that can get the base work needed to assemble the engine and meet the specs needed for an easy assembly. I love screwing together an engine. Working on the combination and then running the crap out of it.

If not being able to do the machine work is a disqualification for a home engine builder, fine, call me an assembler. I have always stated, “I’m not a machinist.” And I’m not! All the respect and thanks to those that are.
 
Crazy thing is many of the guys with machine shops capable of building engines never raced or quit years ago. Don’t tell me its not true because I know better.
 
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justinp61 said:
So, guys that don't do the machine work on the engines they build aren't capable of building a engine?

Gee, I haven't done the machine work on any engine I've built, but I have done all the measuring to verify the clearances, oiling mods, assembly and finally tuning. I also do my own transmissions, gear set up and all my own fabrication.

I knew there was something missing in my life, now I know. I need to invest in a machine shop. LOL

BTW, What car are you running and how fast is it? Slackers everywhere are dying to know.
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There are engine builders and engine assemblers.


Dogging an engine builder on here because someone doesn’t like the numbers is bullshit.

My car has been posted on here before. And I built it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
LMAO! Funny ****.

I can’t invest in such equipment. It’s not the price, it’s the worth and worth of return not to mention space limitations even if I had a 40 X 40 shop. LOL!

When I’m messing with an engine, all I want is a machinist that can get the base work needed to assemble the engine and meet the specs needed for an easy assembly. I love screwing together an engine. Working on the combination and then running the crap out of it.

If not being able to do the machine work is a disqualification for a home engine builder, fine, call me an assembler. I have always stated, “I’m not a machinist.” And I’m not! All the respect and thanks to those that are.
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I had to clarify the definitions. I should have know that I’d have to because of the butthurt factor.


My point is if you want to criticize a business you better be able to duplicate his work.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Crazy thing is many of the guys with machine shops capable of building engines never raced or quit years ago. Don’t tell me it time because I know better.
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If the name is on the car, it's likely that car is running something from that shop, could be just a head, engine or transmission.
Most shops were well represented at Spokane and Firebird. I don't know about recent years though.
 
no idea what all this talk of machine shops is about.. i saw a mopar expert show how to level heads and a block using a cinder block and olive oil.. you guys are trying too hard :)
 
Just because someone is a machinist doesn't make them an engine builder. The engine shop that dynoed my engine didn't have a crank grinder or even a boring machine in the shop, yet he builds engines for everything from street cars, drag cars, dirt cars to tractor pullers. He owns and drives some very fast Mopar cars, street and race. He is an engine builder.
 
Icetech said:
no idea what all this talk of machine shops is about.. i saw a mopar expert show how to level heads and a block using a cinder block and olive oil.. you guys are trying too hard :)
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is that the same guy that does an over bore with a 3 stone hone?
 
fishmens67 said:
is that the same guy that does an over bore with a 3 stone hone?
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I don't like to name names.. but it's the same guy that thinks bearing clearance is an abstract idea so there is no reason to actually check it.
 
justinp61 said:
Just because someone is a machinist doesn't make them an engine builder. The engine shop that dynoed my engine didn't have a crank grinder or even a boring machine in the shop, yet he builds engines for everything from street cars, drag cars, dirt cars to tractor pullers. He owns and drives some very fast Mopar cars, street and race. He is an engine builder.
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Most shops don’t have a crank grinder. It’s a money loser. As for boring some guys use the hone for that.

I never said a machinist is an engine builder. I thought I cleared that up.

Get over it. Just because someone calls themselves something doesn’t make it real.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Most shops don’t have a crank grinder. It’s a money loser. As for boring some guys use the hone for that.

I never said a machinist is an engine builder. I thought I cleared that up.

Get over it. Just because someone calls themselves something doesn’t make it real.
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I can't argue that, the proof is in the pudding. Some guys talk about cooking it, but never produce any pudding.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I was a Millwright but quit doing that. Now I’m into metal removal and tech support. Lol
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You are now a proven engine/ trans builder, head and manifold porter, valve grinder/installer and soon to be body man.
I won't mention all the other car related services you do or the reputable track results.
Millwright is your secondary occupation now, right along with Chef.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I had to clarify the definitions. I should have know that I’d have to because of the butthurt factor.


My point is if you want to criticize a business you better be able to duplicate his work.
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Gotcha there and on the same page.
I thought about it for a few, I can’t remember anyone show casing there own skills and techniques while producing a thread here on ether a “How To” or a check out what I’m doing thread on porting ANY MoPar W head. Ever.
Rat Bastid said:
Just because someone calls themselves something doesn’t make it real.
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True, very true. For general ease and speak terms, saying one thing, “I built my engine” is fine for the enthusiasts here. Over the course of time here, a few member have contacted me to build there engine where as I stopped them and said just what you said, “I am NOT a machinist.”

We can talk about how I like to do things and why, sift through some idea and perhaps I can help you to come to ether a better understanding of what you want. But that’s about it. Take it to a qualified and hopefully the best shop you can get.

The best I’ll do for you after some bench racing on the engine is sit on a stool and verbally help walk you through assembling an engine. Hands on is the best teacher and when you learn something like this, you’ll save lots of money and have the pride to say “I did it myself.”

LOL @fishmens67
 
pittsburghracer said:
I checked out this expert’s Facebook profile and I don’t think I’ll be listening to his suggestions.
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"Not long" problem is when you stroke an engine you put extra pressure on the cylinder walls. Stock LA engines have thin cylinder walls depending how old the castings is. This problem gets worse if you bore it out. You need something like the R series blocks. I had a nicely built 360 (not stroked) that on the dyno had 440 HP. I brought it to a very reputal engine builder and requested a sonic test I was shocked to learn how thin the walls were at the top. I was able to locate an R3 block and was shocked how thick the cylinder walls were compared to my stock LA. We bored it out to 70 over and still had walls double what i would have had with the LA, I have over 200 runs on this engine with no issues, like overheating with an LA engine with thin walls just to name one potential issue. R3 bare blocks are selling for close to $7000

My 600 hp R3 engine is up for sale see it in our classified

001.JPG
 
Aspen Racer said:
"Not long" problem is when you stroke an engine you put extra pressure on the cylinder walls. Stock LA engines have thin cylinder walls depending how old the castings is. This problem gets worse if you bore it out. You need something like the R series blocks. I had a nicely built 360 (not stroked) that on the dyno had 440 HP. I brought it to a very reputal engine builder and requested a sonic test I was shocked to learn how thin the walls were at the top. I was able to locate an R3 block and was shocked how thick the cylinder walls were compared to my stock LA. We bored it out to 70 over and still had walls double what i would have had with the LA, I have over 200 runs on this engine with no issues, like overheating with an LA engine with thin walls just to name one potential issue. R3 bare blocks are selling for close to $7000

My 600 hp R3 engine is up for sale see it in our classified

View attachment 1716068434
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Not long. You must be smoking the good stuff.
 
Aspen Racer said:
"Not long" problem is when you stroke an engine you put extra pressure on the cylinder walls. Stock LA engines have thin cylinder walls depending how old the castings is. This problem gets worse if you bore it out. You need something like the R series blocks. I had a nicely built 360 (not stroked) that on the dyno had 440 HP. I brought it to a very reputal engine builder and requested a sonic test I was shocked to learn how thin the walls were at the top. I was able to locate an R3 block and was shocked how thick the cylinder walls were compared to my stock LA. We bored it out to 70 over and still had walls double what i would have had with the LA, I have over 200 runs on this engine with no issues, like overheating with an LA engine with thin walls just to name one potential issue. R3 bare blocks are selling for close to $7000

My 600 hp R3 engine is up for sale see it in our classified

View attachment 1716068434
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Is that the engine for sale in the "Interior parts for sale" forum?
 
Aspen Racer said:
"Not long" problem is when you stroke an engine you put extra pressure on the cylinder walls. Stock LA engines have thin cylinder walls depending how old the castings is. This problem gets worse if you bore it out. You need something like the R series blocks. I had a nicely built 360 (not stroked) that on the dyno had 440 HP. I brought it to a very reputal engine builder and requested a sonic test I was shocked to learn how thin the walls were at the top. I was able to locate an R3 block and was shocked how thick the cylinder walls were compared to my stock LA. We bored it out to 70 over and still had walls double what i would have had with the LA, I have over 200 runs on this engine with no issues, like overheating with an LA engine with thin walls just to name one potential issue. R3 bare blocks are selling for close to $7000

My 600 hp R3 engine is up for sale see it in our classified

View attachment 1716068434
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600 hp, if Wallace calculators are even close your car would have to weigh 3400-3500 pounds with you in it to run the ET's and mph you listed in your for sale ad for the car. You listed it's weight at 2750, I'm guessing without driver.
 
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