Lost oil pressure while driving, ideas?

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Ima thinking I would like to take that pump apart, if it was mine.
If you look real close at the fracture, it doesnt appear to be a normal break for that type of metal.It almost looks twisted off. And that might be due to pump seizure or one crappy shaft.At 30 psi, Ima thinking crappy shaft.If the pump turns out to be okay I, for one, would like to know the manufacturers identity so I can stay away from that guy.
Of course if you have a priming tool..................
Snap-On magnet-on-a-stick. Sucks the nails right out of the horses hoofies
 
slimjim said:
I'm taking a break from it today. Im going to try and put some jb weld on the end of a rod and then adhere it to the broken piece
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just to pull it out you mean right?

well, im happy for you it looks like a relatively easy and cheap fix
don't forget to try and stick a magnet down in there, you might get lucky and pull it out that way
 
Use a magnet. Get a 5/16 hex rod and put it in the pump and see if you can spin it. If not, you have to drop the pan and remove the pump. take it apart and see what go jammed in it to lock it up. This is not a very common problem, but I have seen it quite a few times.

Was it a MP shaft??? ANd why are you running a Bronze gear?? Almost all SBM hyd roller cams are on NON BILLET cores and can use a std oil pump drive.
 
This is a billet cam and I was told to use the bronze gear. I ordered a new piece from summit racing (221 bucks). I'll try to use the magnet first but if it doesn't work then I'll just go with the jb weld trick to pull it out. I'm really suprised it snapped off like that but, I'm soooooo happy it was only that haha. Looks like I was pretty lucky.
 
Something for sure caused it. need to find out what. :burnout: MT
 
Mopar Tim said:
Pump is more than likely seized. MT
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Yup.

That shaft looks like a twist shear. Only way that happens is sudden lock up of the pump I am thinking.

Also need to know how long the engine was running with zero oil pressure. Even a minute could be long enough to burn bearings.

Drop the pan and pull at least one main cap I would think.

Tom
 
slimjim said:
This is a billet cam and I was told to use the bronze gear.
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Ok, must be a special grind then, but normally they are not billet for a SBM HRC. Its not a crappy oil pump drive, you have to pull the pan and have a look. Hope is not a good strategy.
 
spinman_1949 said:
Yup.

That shaft looks like a twist shear. Only way that happens is sudden lock up of the pump I am thinking.

Also need to know how long the engine was running with zero oil pressure. Even a minute could be long enough to burn bearings.

Drop the pan and pull at least one main cap I would think.

Tom
Click to expand...

ANY foreign matter in that pump = sheared pump drive. I have seen it before. MT:burnout:
 
If you noticed a change in the engine due to a lack of oil pressure pull the pan and check bearings. It sounds like something locked up your oil pump.
 
If I'm able to prime the pump without any issues then the pump would be fine right? And which way does that shaft turn?
 
No one else has said it, so I will. Stop being ridiculous trying to fish the rest out with JB Weld. You said in your original post that you "heard the engine change pitch". Sorry, bud, but it's over and done with. You need to remove and disassemble that bad boy, because you have many more problems than that broken intermediate shaft.

Sorry, but that's the God's truth, whether you want to hear it or not.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No one else has said it, so I will. Stop being ridiculous trying to fish the rest out with JB Weld. You said in your original post that you "heard the engine change pitch". Sorry, bud, but it's over and done with. You need to remove and disassemble that bad boy, because you have many more problems than that broken intermediate shaft.

Sorry, but that's the God's truth, whether you want to hear it or not.
Click to expand...


welcome back buddy
 
nm9stheham said:
This statement caught my eye and is bothersome. I never have had 'shavings' from the oil drain in a new build of any type.
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Could be from the bronze drive, especially since it sheared off the shaft. I would try and spin the pump with a drill first, but for sure you will need to pull the pan and check bearings weather the pump turns or not.
 
Like RRR said. Personally, I would like to take the pan off and inspect the bejeesus out of it, just for peace of mind. Yeah, car will be down for some time, but if it is more serious and engine goes south, it is guaranteed to be down. Take it out now, fix it, then have fun. Spend time and money now, or maybe a serious break, and spend more time and more money. Like Dirty Harry said, only without the punk at the end. You feeling lucky......LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
No one else has said it, so I will. Stop being ridiculous trying to fish the rest out with JB Weld. You said in your original post that you "heard the engine change pitch". Sorry, bud, but it's over and done with. You need to remove and disassemble that bad boy, because you have many more problems than that broken intermediate shaft.

Sorry, but that's the God's truth, whether you want to hear it or not.
Click to expand...

Absolutly, I thought the same thing but didn't want to say it.
 
Alright so after giving it some thought, I'm going to pull the pan, replace the pump, and check the bearings. If I like what I'm seeing I'll just leave it at that and continue the break in period. An external oil pump would be so great right now. Maybe I'll tackle a big block next time. I really appreciate all the help guys. Thanks.
 

Pulling the engine and doing a rebuild just isn't in the cards. I no longer have a shop or the time for that. Now if I pull the pan and find some damaged bearing well, not to sound like an a** but, the car would most likely sit in storage for a year or more.
 
No, I don't think what you said makes you sound like an ***, it's just the way things are with you at the moment. I'm just giving an opinion, and I hope I don't come off as one. LOL
 
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