FWI the Mr. G head gasket part # is 1121g , but I myself prefer your "option 1" for what to do.
Did you have to use shorter push rods by cutting .030?
I got different pushrods. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.Did you have to use shorter push rods by cutting .030?
Probably not.... that is on the margin of being OK, and you will just have to check the lifter pre-load at the end and see what it is.Did you have to use shorter push rods by cutting .030?
???? Not seeing how that changes rocker geometry unless:I got different pushrods. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.
I got different pushrods. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.
He Is using adjustable rockers. Maybe that's the difference?Probably not.... that is on the margin of being OK, and you will just have to check the lifter pre-load at the end and see what it is.
???? Not seeing how that changes rocker geometry unless:
But I may be missing something else.
- Valve length changes, or
- Rocker shaft position changes
If you mill the heads you need longer push rods.I did. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.
I think that may have been the case. I didn't measure the new valves and I bet they were different length than the originals. The lifters were not the same as the original dumbells either. The rockers were way off and I bought longer pushrods and had to shim the shafts as well. Tolerance stacking!Probably not.... that is on the margin of being OK, and you will just have to check the lifter pre-load at the end and see what it is.
???? Not seeing how that changes rocker geometry unless:
But I may be missing something else.
- Valve length changes, or
- Rocker shaft position changes
LOL↑
I did. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.
If you mill the heads you need longer push rods.
If you mill the heads you need longer pushrods?
Actually shorter. Hydraulic lifters will never know. Solids usually not either unless you change a bunch of stuff.↑
I did. Just to get the rocker geometry to come out right.
If you mill the heads you need longer push rods.
If you mill the heads you need longer pushrods?
Around .018I've actually had several heads cut - up to .045 and never cut an intake or changed pushrods. Never had a issue either. These factory casted blocks and heads are all different from the factory, yet all got the same intake and pushrods. Remember, the factory tin head gaskets were even thinner than a .028 Mr Gasket.
Not that it's bad to check the intakes/push rods, but I wouldn't bother on anything .030 or less.
Unfortunately, with all the tolerance stack-ups as mentioned, no one can guarantee that a head cut of .030" won't end up with pushrods too long. So cutting heads 10 times and not having an issue does not say if there will be issues or not on #11.I've actually had several heads cut - up to .045 and never cut an intake or changed pushrods. Never had a issue either. These factory casted blocks and heads are all different from the factory, yet all got the same intake and pushrods. Remember, the factory tin head gaskets were even thinner than a .028 Mr Gasket.
Not that it's bad to check the intakes/push rods, but I wouldn't bother on anything .030 or less.
that .030 becomes .020 if you use the Mr G thin gasket. That .030 becomes 0 if you use the "over the counter" fel pro from the parts store. So, you missed that in your assessment. By the way, we machine transmission parts to the micron, usually with a .012 +/- tolerance. Again, a micron is a thousands of a mm, not an inch. So I know a thing or two about tolerances.Unfortunately, with all the tolerance stack-ups as mentioned, no one can guarantee that a head cut of .030" won't end up with pushrods too long. So cutting heads 10 times and not having an issue does not say if there will be issues or not on #11.
The above says why: different parts and different stackups. The same pushrods worked at the factory only because the nominals were the same and the worst case stackups were designed to work 99+% of the time. Once you cut the heads .030", you are well outside the factory nominal for head height and all bets are off.
As a design engineer in a past career, working with volume production designs and tolerance stack-ups, trust me.... Usually you are fighting to keep the fall-out to a minimum with standard parts tolerances, and costs make you loathe to spec tighter part tolerances. Put in a large variation like -.030", forget it; you are going to get some fair % of parts combinations that are not going to work together. That is why I don't agree with the idea of ever telling folks that they 'should not bother' on this particular matter.
My piston choice was based on two things. One the factory weight pistons so I dont have to spend a boatload of money on rebalancing the engine. I did alot of research and homework to find a piston that weight the same as the factory one (within 2 grams @ .030 over) and give me my desired scr.just read through this thread
the grove in the bushing is for oiling the gear- good idea
YMWV on the rocker geometry
but if heads are stock unmilled now and valves are same length and cam base circle is stock small mill should not require new pushrods-
hyd lifter will take up the difference and NOT change the geometry
just measure the depth on each end chamber then mill flat to get them all four ends the same
the middles are what they are
If the heads have been cleaned up on a belt sander by a quickie rebuilder previously they will take a lot of milling to get them back square do check with a deck mike- they are cheap and an essential toolbox item
as others have said check the block then bore as little as possible- if no rust MOPAR (and AMC) blocks are tougher than brands X
how much ridge?
how do you clean the oil gallies without taking all the plugs out?
detail your oil system first
drill the main feeds to 9/32
I have found broken drill bits and partially drilled holes ( from too many sharpening/ shorting bits at the factory)
clean up any roughness and round your corners
square corners kill flow (turbulance)
bottom tap alll your bolt holes
you did your porting so you can do this
Why not the KB quench dome pistons
they were designed especially for your heads and they really work
I was mostly worried about it causing him more work and time and in return costing me more money in labor. Yes I'm that cheap! HahaClean it/leave it, doesn't matter in the over all scheme of things.........if the shops method of cleaning is to bake and shot blast, the block will look like a brand new piece of iron, chemical dip will lift anything stuck to the block...........however, you could look upon the removal of goobers/crud/etc as one more chance to inspect the block just to make sure there are no surprises.
I didn't ask him his procedure for the cleaning process I guess I should have. When i asked him about the bore he said he does it in a package cleaning bore hone and cam bearings for 450 I said I would do the cam bearings myself and he said 350! Then approximately another 100 for the heads so I'm looking at about 500 or soScrape off all you can so the chemicals will be able to work at it sooner.... I am sure it will be appreciated, just as I am sure the chemicals will eat that stuff up, along with the paint. FWIW, I have never had a shop bead blast a block... it just is not commonly done in my neck of the woods.
That's a beautiful engine Mike! Is the 273 in your gold dart or your swinger? IIR the blue swinger has a 318 correct?
Yep. 273 is in the 66That's a beautiful engine Mike! Is the 273 in your gold dart or your swinger? IIR the blue swinger has a 318 correct?