j par
Well-hung Member
That's how I would have took care of it in my younger days..Puff puff purge. Lol.
What's the certification date on that bottle that sitting in your spare room?..
That's how I would have took care of it in my younger days..Puff puff purge. Lol.
Aren't you your spark plug reader?..I think I will get my flow tool, spark plug reader, scale, and purge kit out over the weekend. I haven’t touched it in three years since I bought it. Lol
That was probably a combination of a black car in the sun along with no blow off valve.. a safety blow off valve is not only required on the track but a good safety device...Heres why its important to keep the bottle up to date and at correct pressure.....
Nitrous Bottle Explosion(pics!) - Cobalt SS Network
You should see the Jets that came with these nitrous plates LOL I don't feel I'll be using any of them.. unless I want to start out at a 400 shot LOL. The smallest ones seem to add up to a 200 shot for each card plate...-4 90s?
Man i cant wait to see you get this going.
I will be doing N20 on my new build just cuz ive got lots of nitrous parts sitting on the shelf. With the power i plan on making under boost i dont think i will ever have the balls to use it but i sure love the look!
Lower just seemed closer to direct injection lol... Also a good sit away from the carb linkage and all that other stuff going on..Don't forget, you can put the plate under the carbs or under the spacers and see if it makes any difference.
My WAG is the higher the plate, the more power it will make.
I kept moving my FI nozzles up and kept finding power even though all the gurus said it wouldn't.
Worth testing for it.
I was wondering after I got everything completely hooked up if I couldn't take the carburetors off and try a small nitrous shot with the engine obviously off? Assume I'm just giving a shot of air anyways and after a few minutes it would just dissipate? The plates will be locked down by the 2in spacers anyways? I could even do this with the fuel side as well it seems?Hook it up to a bottle of co2, just flip the co2 bottle upside down so that liquid comes out when you crack the valve. Similar pressure to a nitrous bottle.
Grant
I believe I have the long stem jets that are the nos brand or Edelbrock brand size..You've probably already found some smaller jets but here's this>
https://inductionsolutions.com/shop/nitrous-accessoriescomponents/jets/nitrous-jets/
.052n jet was rated at 125hp on a cheater plate with the NOS N/solenoid [email protected]" and the NOS plate.
I'm not an expert on the new kits, just going by what I learnt in the old days with a cheater kit, then a big shot kit on the BB car. Those tunes were seriously fat, thats why I got away without retarding much, cos I didn't make the hp. I think you need to watch what charts you go by as Ind. Solutions charts for 1 can vary as to the plates/solenoids depending on what kit, some have huge orifice sizes and therefore jetting will be different of course. I think its best to go by the NOS cheater kit numbers, there's just so many, sure got to do some work.
My goal is to have a safe operational system.. not only safe for me, but safe for the engine.. kind of like you're saying creep up on the tune and creep up on the amount that I use.. getting all the components linked together with all their electrical connections and triggers and arming devices... I'm already imagining a second switch panel just for operating all the different ways I want things wired up..The NOS jets I had were all marked with a number. The front of the jets are all the same size, backs are the actual size, thats normal. So if you go with say 25n jets and 20f jets @5>6psi to be still a bit fat that should be around a 120 shot?. Much less and I doubt if you'd notice it too much. Race only a 125 shot was worth around .4>.5 in ET on my junk but I was well fat on the tune.
Everything I see on every jet chart has the fuel four or five thousands smaller?? ..You could go 25n/25f if you feel your happier with that, you won't have to concern yourself about retards too much either, perhaps 2 deg is enough, more if you go cleaner. I had 1 main arming switch, then 1 switch for the seperate fuel pump for NO2 petrol, and then a micro on carb for WOT off the line. A steering wheel button is perhaps your best way as I doubt you'll be hitting it off the bat anywhere, even once you get used to it all being a stick car. Having a fuel pressure guage thats visible in front of you isn't a bad idea, I had 2 on the cowl.
Everything I see on every jet chart has the fuel four or five thousands smaller?? ..
Yes it can all get quite confusing!.. I do have forged pistons so that will help a little bit but on the other hand I have pretty high compression as well which isn't a great thing for nitrous.. I'll definitely back the timing off an extra degree or two beyond the couple that I already will for my first ever hit and then creep back up on the timing... I just pulled up the Edelbrock chart and everything they're saying is one to one the jet sizes.....Strange as most places I looked they all had the F jet larger. Apparently the 2nd stage NOS jetting chart had them square, the third 5 sizes smaller for F jet. Most reckon up to 8>10 sizes smaller for F jet, that would be at 6psi I reckon and how good delivery is, the fuel your using and how much you take out as once you start getting into a real "clean" hit timing is more important than fuel delivery. If your lean with the combo it will just not make the power, if your too hard up on timing it'll first do a plug if your lucky and then a piston/s. But don't let all that concern you too much as at your level (150 max) its not going to happen, I'm talking about 250+shots.