I,ve run Q-A1 12 way adjustables with my Caltracs.Right now I,m running the 9 way adjustables from Calvert(Sellers of Caltracs).The Q-A1,s are about 1 inch longer.
Measure from the center of perches and move 3 inches in.Thats how I did mine.I left the old ones on and used a straight level for pinion angle then tacked the new ones in place,removed old ones,then welded new ones.Worked for me.:D
If you look at the splines on the box and the coupler you will see a gap where there is about 3 splines missing.These need to be lined up to fit together(box to coupler).
Does your D Sport have sway bars front and back?If you have a front sway bar,check for a broken/rotted pin.Also you may have worn/saggy leaf springs,maybe time to replace 40 yr old leafs.
Adjustable shocks will help with setting your car up,also many companys(RMS,Hotchkis)selling heimed strut rods and tubular(heimed) A-arms for the front end which help free up movement with front end lift.
Yes you could do a band-aid,but why even bother?It would be easier and more cost/time effective to just get a new(used) K frame.Hope you get the proper LCA also.
Sounds interesting...I say go for it,but find a Duster that's headed to the wreckers and start from there,just incase you decide to give up on it your not tossing a good A-body away.JMO
Yep clamp the front segments,then adjust your snubber 1/4-1/2 inch from the floor.When I first did my 66 Dart,I welded extra 1/4 inch plate in this area for strength.
Yes you can buy 4.5x5 bolt axels from Dr.Diff,Strange,Moser,Yukon.You can also swap your front brakes/upper control arms from a 73 up A-body or can buy from someone like Scarebird.Lots of options out there.:D
Mine works fine for Drag only for me,but don,t have coilover shocks.I have over 500 passes with my last alignment,still running straight at the strip.:burnout: