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Congrats!

Remove the four/nut firewall retaining plate. Turn on the motor. Grab the motor by hand and twist in different directions. Does it change the sound?

It would be nice to see what goes well or not, giving us a heads up in the future.

I learned something, sorry.

Apology excepted.

BB are on the v/cover.

New gaskets, new heater core, clean and refurbish. Does this include R&R time? New heater hoses, clamps. Are all the parts on site, or do you have to order? You're talking to an old mechanic who used to work "flat rate". How long does it take?

These are all separate pieces, but might be tight on the water pump.

I think the brown wire is the ground.

On A/C cars the dash bezel and controls are different as well as the firewall. You should consider aftermarket if you want A/C.

All these are good. Spray is a little better- quicker, full coverage, faster.

Wrong! The brown ground wire is a very long one and attaches to screw at the heater core clamp and then continues over to the right kick pad for a real ground.

!967-69 cudas, air conditioning not available on BB cars.

The issue happens with aftermarket v/covers.

You can close all the controls but there is still water in the box and it will fog up the glass. Bypass the core for a temporary fix, replace the core for complete repair.

We would need to know which unit you want to install.

When done patching replace the old rivet with a screw and nut.

A '68 cuda W/O AC uses no heater control valve. The water continuously circulates. There is an inner door that opens up to allow heat to enter the car. A '68 cuda W/AC uses a control valve.

Aftermarket ones replace the under dash unit. This is an option.

Hard to tell from your pics. Does this strip have the clips in it already or are there holes where the clips are to go? The hood to radiator support strip is about 55 1/2" long with holes for the clips and the cowl to hood seal is about 34" with clips already installed.

A kit is available with the correct screw/washers.

Remove gasket and apply thin layer of RTV to both sides and re-install.

My '68 cuda, 383, stock brass radiator w/ shroud= no overheating.

I would think that a shroud would be the first thing to try. When does it over heat? At idle? When cruising?

Is the water pump stock? Better cooling can be had with an improved water pump like Flow Cooler. Is the lower hose new? Does it have an inner spring to prevent it from collapsing?

A common problem with the cables is when the attaching clips become loose and you think that the cable feels like it is working but in reality the whole cable is sliding in the clip. This can happen at either end of the cable where those clips are. The fix- either remove the clip and re-tension...

If I remember correctly, that front series of vents is held on by 3(?) nuts, visible from the bottom. When undone the whole assembly will drop out from the heater box leaving room for radio removal.

Install an aftermarket cooler.

Many will paint the radiator black to keep that almost stock look.

Different vendors made them a little different, all would be correct. This is true with many parts on our cars.