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When I was finishing up my 73 Challenger, I realized that I'd purchased the short sending unit ground strap instead of the long one I needed. While the correct one was ordered, I drove the car to get an alignment and put some gas in the tank. The fuel gauge still worked without the ground...

Here is what the vapor separator looks like on my 73 318 Challenger. The 4 lines coming out of the tank go into the separator. Then there is 1 line that comes out of the separator and goes to the engine compartment. That is a vent/vapor line. That is the line the tank vents through.

Is it actually a return line or a vapor line? I'm guessing it's a vapor line. My 68 A-body has 1 fuel line. The tank is vented at the fuel filler tube. My 73 Challenger has two lines. One is the feed and the other is the vapor line. The vapor line runs from the vapor separator back by the...

Looks like the handle is "inset". The reproduction cap I bought for my 68 isn't that way. The cap has no indentation for the handle.

I've heard the price of those is ridiculous!

If it was me, I'd drop the tank and have a look inside. See if you can get a good look at the pickup. Is it sitting up off the bottom of the tank quite a bit? If so, you could probably bend it slightly so it's sitting closer to the bottom.

There is a vender(Dixie Restorations I think) who is putting together a group buy on sending units. They are supposed to be made by the same company who made the original ones. That's really all I know about it. There is a thread on Moparts about it.(in the New Products section)

I had trouble on my Challenger when everything was dry. I ended up having to prime the pump to carb line to get the pump to pull any fuel from the tank.

Don't know yet. Everyone here suggested the 5/16" insulating base gasket. That's what I'm going to run.

In the 80's they started using a fuel filter with an extra nipple sticking out the side. That nipple was connected to a return line. Those fuel filters are still available at most stores. That would be the easiest way to do it. I wonder if Fine Lines offers the older A-body lines with a return...

Most reproduction parts sellers should have that. Have you tried Mega Parts or Herb's?

The factory started using the flexible tubing in the mid/late 70's on certain models. They must have thought it did some good.

Too much fuel? What's the pressure at?

Yep, every year seems to be a little different. In 73, all three nipples on the canister were used. In 74, there wasn't a bowl vent on the carb and the third nipple on the canister was capped.

I got my Challenger tank from RockAuto. Make sure where ever you get it, that it's a Spectra tank.

Harms does great work on 2-barrels also. Well worth the money.

Steel wool to clean the tank and RPM to preserve the unpainted finish.(if the tank looks good enough to not need paint)

I'm pretty sure even clear powder coat will yellow with engine heat. I'm debating on what I want to do as well. I don't want orange that's for sure. It's down to the factory red or an aluminum color. I'm worried the aluminum color will look cheap.

The check ball inside the vapor separator on my Challenger was rusted up. Soaking the unit in EvapoRust got it working again.

Here is the "correct" factory setup. Two thin asbestos gaskets with an aluminum spacer in between. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/7921135-1.jpg http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/7921136-2.jpg http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/7921139-5.jpg

Are those the thick insulating gaskets? I believe 71 is a one year only setup. 71s take two gaskets with a metal plate in between the two. Let me see if I can find some more info.

I think you can run a base that has a 3/4 drop. Any more and it will hit the choke.

The new intake arrived yesterday. There is an equal amount of material on either side of the carb opening unlike the original one I received. The secondaries clear the intake just fine now.

Just got off the phone with Edelbrock. They are sending me a new intake.

I've been talking with customer service the last two days and have sent them some pictures of the problem. They want me to send in the intake and carb so they can have a look at them. They said sometimes the 1408's will clip the center divider a little bit. This is a different story though...

My original Challenger sending unit looked really nasty so I replaced it. With all the trouble people have been having with the new ones I was curious what my original one looked like inside. It looked almost brand new inside the cover. It had stopped working because the pin that makes...

If you continue to have sending unit issues, I'd reinstall the original unit. Buy a gallon of EvapoRust and soak the sender in that for a couple days. I bet it comes out looking new and will probably work better then a new one.

I wanted to see what Edelbrock had to say about this. They said the thick gasket is NOT required but it is a good idea to use it even on the AIR GAP intake. They also said the intake must not have been machined correctly because the carb should be a bolt-on deal. I need to figure out where...

Edelbrock RPM Air Gap. The secondaries look like they are the same size as the intake opening. Maybe the bolt holes were drilled slightly off or the opening shifted a little. These were bought from Summit so they shouldn't be counterfeit knockoffs.

I'll pick up a thick gasket and give it a try then. If it's required with that intake they should mention it in the instructions. It says nothing about requiring that gasket. I hope the gasket is slightly larger then the intake opening or the secondaries are going to hang up on that too. I was...