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I usually get decent results by joining ongoing conversations along the same vein as my issues, rather than reinventing the wheel. We drained the tank and removed it because the sending unit would not clear the 8-3/4" rear end. The sender was replaced, fuel tank reinstalled, and at least 8...

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Very similar situation. Compared resistance on both old and new sending units. Full was about 9.5 ohms and empty was 76. Not too far off what was posted above. New one was purchased because old one was suspected as reason for gauge not working. Hmmmmm Installed the new one and it does the same...

There is a filter sock on the intake line of your fuel sending unit inside the tank. If you had crud in the fuel filter earlier, you might also have crud inside the tank clogging up the sock.

Maybe it's like the old riddle, "Is the light on in the refrigerator when the door is closed?" Is there gas in the filter when the hood is closed? I wonder...

How do you mean "warped", like the sheet metal the ring is attached to doesn't lie in a flat plane? Look like something hit it and deformed the ring? If you siphoned out all the gas, could you remove the sender and straighten the ring? Use a brass drift or wood dowel, nothing steel that can...

Also might be the sending unit's seal. If it isn't much of a leak, it might be a crack around the vent tube's soldered joint. Hard to tell until you get a chance to take a look under there and see where the stream is coming from. Let us know what you find...

The pump has an arm (like a lever) that works against a fairly stiff internal spring. If you hold the pump tightly in one hand, you can barely work the arm manually. If you can, you will hear the diaphragm "pumping" air each time you work the arm. On the cam shaft is an eccentric lobe that...

:worthles: Let's see what ya got.

Would only work if the base is for a 13" element. Aaron has the Mopar Performance cast aluminum matching lid and valve covers. I'll check with Oldschool. In the meanwhile, I'm still looking for ideas. We would like to open up the hood for fresh air. Thanks, Jerry

This will be Aaron's daily driver, so the filter is a must. We tried a larger 4bbl air cleaner base, but its diameter isn't wide enough to provide what I think is sufficient air volume to feed the 750 cfm Holley.

Can you give a brief description of what materials were used? Does the tray have a raised lip around the edge, or is the weatherstripping simply glued to a flat sheet? Thanks for the pics, that's a start for some ideas. Anyone with a round example? Jerry

Aaron and I are looking for a solution for having to cut an opening in his Duster's hood to make clearance for the air cleaner. The 360 we dropped in has a Mopar M1 dual plane intake, 1" carb spacer, Holley 750 4bbl, and a Mopar Performance 14" open element air cleaner housing. The problem is...

I recently bought these Lokar items for my son's '74 Duster with 360/727 from fatrodders.com Throttle bracket for Holley 4 bbl - Part no. SRK4000 $22.00 Throttle cable (universal black) - Part no. TC100U $35.00 Kickdown cable (universal black) - Part no. KD2727U $55.00 Nice folks...

Do you suspect a problem with the sending unit, other than the sinking float? If not, here are some useful part numbers I clipped off a thread at slantsix.org: Float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N...

While you are sloshing the suds around, drop in a good length of dog chain to knock off any loose scale or rust.

Thanks, Tony, I'll check it out tomorrow.

...on a 4-bbl Holley 4160 (LIST 3310-4) 750 cfm vacuum secondary? Namely, the PCV hose and all necessary vacuum lines. I'm guessing the PCV goes to the larger nipple on the back of the carb. Thanks, Jerry

Here ya go Alan... Basically, the ground strap has to jump the gap from the sending unit to the hard metal fuel line heading up front to the fuel pump - bridging over the short segment of rubber line. Jerry

Obviously, we have a bit of an interference problem. This is a Holley 3310 sitting on a Mopar M1 intake. Sure, we need a carb gasket, but it won't provide enough clearance by itself. So, is there any advantage to using a taller carb spacer? How much and where do we get one? Thanks, Jerry

You should have a ground strap that hooks one end to the metal outlet tube from the sending unit and the other end to the metal fuel line supplying the pump. Basically, it skips over the short segment of rubber fuel line that connects the two. Disconnect the single wire on the sending unit's...

There's really no reason to toss the tank, unless it is extremely rusty or corroded on the inside. Take a good look inside with a bright flashlight. Also, check the soldered joint around the vent return tube (if so equipped). When you reinstall this tank, or its replacement, don't forget...

If yours is like my son's '74 Dart Sport, the filler neck pokes through the quarter panel and is held in place with three screws hidden under the gas cap. The filler neck then slides through a rubber boot attached to the trunk floor. Finally, the neck goes through a gas tank rubber grommet...

Well, it's just not going to work. We put the old sending unit back into my son's '74 Dart Sport, and it worked somewhat for a while (never registered more than 3/4 full). Now it doesn't register at all. Where can I get a reasonably priced 5/16" sending unit? Jerry

I simply made one from heavy gauge aluminum plate. About the same thickness of a street sign (wink, wink). Run some coarse sandpaper over it lengthwise for a brushed look. Drill a couple of holes and mount it with a little high temp RTV sealant. Works great. Jerry