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I swapped out the 904 for a 727 in my '67 Barracuda. (I know it's not exactly the same.) I also put a Dana in to replace the 7&1/4 rear. I'd advise you to do the rear end and transmission swap at the same time so you don't have to re-do the driveshaft twice.

I still think the nicest ones are from US Cartool.

I had to check it out. I like the idea of an easy to read indicator (especially at night). I'd like the one you found better though if the numbers lit when in gear instead of the bar indicator. I think that it might be easier to tell which gear you were in when it's dark. I like my Pro-Matic...

Cool little calculator tool. Thanks PD.

True. At 3000 RPM I guess there's plenty of motor left. It's not as if I'm running it anywhere close to it's limits.

It's probably those dang Purple Hornies I'm running that keeps me worrying. I suppose if I quieted it down a bit I wouldn't be as aware of the RPM.

Maybe you're right inertia. I guess I'm assuming the rate of wear would go up exponentially with the RPM. Maybe I'm just overly concerned because I've got more $$ in my motors now than I did when I was much younger and I'm more afraid of breaking them. Maybe it's just because I'm becoming an...

As stated above, the 4.10s are great in town. Personally I wish I'd have gone with 3.55s instead. I'll probably change mine out some day unless I install an overdrive. The constant 3000+ RPM going down the highway makes me concerned about engine wear.

I agree with the threaded inserts (nutserts). Just drill your holes from the topside, install the inserts with it's tool, and all you have left to do is thread your bolts in from the top.

I also installed the truck version of the Hurst Pro-matic in my '67 Barracuda bench seat car. I modified the handle. By having the arm bent farther back I was able to position the shifter body farther forward on the transmission tunnel and not have to worry about hitting the dash. Then the...

Before I put one of those truck Dana rears in my Barracuda I measured my original rear to figure out optimal wheel clearance. Instead of matching the width of my original rear. I ended up going a few inches narrower. I didn't relocate my springs or do any minitubbing. - But the change in rear...

We're running Moser axles in our '68 Charger 8&4/4 and '67 Barracuda's Dana 60. Our Duster's Dana 60 is running Strange axles.

My hat's off to you 'old school'. It's great to see guys willing to part with their unneeded stuff while making someone else a heck of a deal.

I like the ones we've bought from US Car Tool. They bolt directly to the transmission crossmember and there's no fab work involved. - No drilling holes in the floor of framework. It attaches with 2 of the bolts that are used to bolt in the crossmember. I put one on our '68 Charger and my...

Sometimes those videos can help out more than the diagrams and still pictures.

I came across this online. I haven't watched it but I think it may be what you need. http://youtu.be/iMHeQRtMJmI

I like the HURST Pro-matic II that I installed in my Barracuda. I like the ratchet action. I've got a Turbo Action Cheetah in my Duster. I heard a lot of folks brag about them but I still prefer the HURST.

I've seen prices range between $350 to $1500. Now I think you'd have to be insane to spend the $1500 but the $700 shipped isn't bargain basement price either. It depends on various other factors whether or not I'd go for it. 1)How soon do you need it? If you want to get it over and done...

Hurst helpline - ONE, 800, 544, 4761 I'm having trouble typing in phone numbers without Skype crap popping up. I had trouble with a Hurst shifter and they helped me out. The tech gave me different instructions other than what the manual or the website offered.

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Another nice thing about modifying the old truck Dana 60s is that you can choose the exact width you want to end up with. By scoping out and measuring your current axle assembly you can have the dimensions altered to accommodate a better tire fit or wheel backspacing.

The truck Dana 60 was the cheaper route for me. The brake cost was identical between the 8&3/4 and the Dana. The initial cost of the rear was cheaper. - And I would guess that narrowing and axle costs would be the same.

Keep in mind that you'll have to swap drive shafts too.

With a small block it's rated between 3000-3400 stall. What's your plan for the converter? - Going to use it?

stop criticizing my fine engineering!!! Lol

I think you need to start a new thread. I don't know if I should laugh or cry after seeing those pictures. I wonder how many other examples of fine craftmanship such as those are out there.

Man, you've not been having a good week. - First the axle bearings and now the pinion error. I'd still contact that shop and see what they're willing to do for you. Maybe they're capable of picking it up and towing it? As long as they're competent enough not to cause any damage and aren't...

Ya, Rusty is right on this one. I'd make sure that the shop that did the work is informed of what has happened. If there turns out to be any further damage found from their mistake you'll want them to have to reimburse you. Whether or not you want to tackle it yourself is up to you. Most...

hmmm.... - unless the axles were already moving outboard enough to screw with the brakes maybe?... I know that the wear pattern on most drums tends to leave more material unworn down on the inside of the drums. Maybe that inner drum area was starting to drag on the shoes?