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I had my gas and temp gauges go out at the same time. There was a burned trace on the instrument panel circuit board. It looked as though it started as a small crack and then arcing lead to the burning. Worth a look for sure.

I'm not an expert but, if there is still a short would the alt be putting out more voltage to compensate? Start by pulling fuses one by one to see which one is shorting.

It doesn't have to be cold, as in around freezing. It can be 40 to 45 and this can happen.

You probably have carb icing. In damp weather ice forms in the throat of the carb due to the reduced temp and the moisture. Do you have a warm air duct from the 'stove' on the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner. I used to get this all the time when it was damp and cool out with by '63 Valiant...

Listen to slantsixdan! He's da man!

x3

Reach under the dash and you will feel a small button on the switch body. Push the button in and pull the switch knob and rod out of the switch. You ca now remove the switch retaining nut from the dash.

You wont have to splice. I put one in my '68 Barracuda back in the day. Find the connector for the dome light, disconnect the male and female connectors and connect the trunk light to these two connectors. Easy.

If you have access to a parts yard just cut one out of a car with plenty left to make a good soldered splice and use heat shrink tubing.

Had a blown link on a '71 Scamp. The short was in the harness that is held on the firewall by that spot welded two pronged bendable retainer. The retainer wore through the tape and wire insulation. Worth a check. Please let us know what you find. Good luck

Could be your hi/lo beam switch

Probably a faulty headlight switch.

You probably have a bad ground if the gauge is intermittent. If your temp gauge is ok then the voltage limiter is ok. Could be the sending unit in the tank but check out the ground first.

I think your limiter is toast if the gauges are pinning out.

Forgot to say that you will probably have to take out the screws that hold the instrument panel in place so you can move the panel out a little. There is a dash brace that may be in the way of the limiter.

I would pull the limiter now so as to not damage the gauges if they are not fried already. Some of these limiters can be removed without removing the instrument panel. Take a look to see if you can remove it.

Here's what the limiter looks like.

You probably have a faulty voltage limiter. It's mounted on the back of the instrument panel, on the circuit board. It's a small rectangular component with three connections.

Don't know if you can still get these but, back in the day you could get a clear distributor cap and watch the arcing from the rotor to the distributor cap points. Looked cool.

The reason I suggested the map sensor was because he said after it warmed up there was black smoke and ran rough. I had a Dodge Spirit that did that and another map sensor cured the problem. I got one at a pick a part yard for $5.00.

Sounds like the map sensor. Just my .02

I think it's a reaction with the lead and the anti corrosion red felt washer under the terminal. Just my .02

I didn't find the connectors for the fender mounted turn signal indicators on my Scamp, so I assume that if the car didn't come with the 'light package' option these connectors would not be there.

I used a meter to find the wire that is used to flash the light and hard wired (soldered) it in place. I spliced it to the correct wire

When you do drill holes for the indicator lights, be careful not to drill too big. The ones that rapom65 has have a rubber base. They are a snug fit in the fender hole. When I added these to a '73 Scamp I drilled the holes smaller and used a round file around the hole until they could be forced...

Let us know what you found.

Does the rotor turn when you crank it over? Do you have fuel pressure? Is your fuel filter clogged from using gasohol? It can clean out gunk in the tank and plug a filter. If you think you flooded it keep the pedal to the floor until it fires up. Just a few thoughts.

Take a look at the dome light switches in the door jambs. Could be there imho. You have to unplug them first before you try to turn them out.

I will check my mail box daily. lol

I think you answered your own question dude. That dome light problem will probably figure into the blown fuse problem some where along the line.