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And that would be condensation,as posted, and as posted if your oil don't look like a milkshake, it's most likely to be condensation.

I have headmans on my scamp, and mine don't bottom out or scrape on speed bumps, but I'm sitting high and dry, like a 68 SS:-D

things you'll need, a first aid kit, beer......lots of beer, floor jack, or cherry picker to raise the engine, things you'll lose, your religion, when you feel like taking a hammer to the car, walk away and drink a beer, when you feel like taking a torch to the headers, walk away and drink a...

pull the little tabs thru the holes, and use sealant at the corners, I'm using fel pro gaskets, with zero leaks, as stated make sure your rail is straight.

OK you guys really need to get rid of the signal pod master cylinder, unless you don't drive your cars.

I have one from a 88 Dakota on my scamp, with headman headers, but there are guys on here running up to 96 dodge truck starters, all the same, I don't think a caravan starter will work tho, because the ones I've seen anyway, the bolt holes are off. Mark

they are smog ports, just close them off, you can tap them and stick a set screw in them, just make sure it's flush, when your finished.

strip the block, bolt the heads on, roll the engine up side down, everything look good? (bet it does) save your money.

exactly how does one keep his/ her foot outta the rear two barrels:-D

is it the side with the tip? and are you on the compression stroke? just asking, because I've been stabbing mopar dist. for 30 years, and if I'm not paying attention, like last week, when I did my scamp, I'll get them 180 out, easy to do.

cheap way out, late model cover, and timing tape on the balancer, done deal.

great info moper, tho I could have gone the rest of my life, without the visual of a ***** in a vise, ouch.

it sounds like the first on may have a diagram going bad, are the arms the same lengths? if not, I'd take the one off of the first one, and try it on the second one, or just bend the second one to match, as the second one seems to long and not letting the choke open all the way when the engines...

it's a stock iron intake, I was told to adjust the metering rods, if that don't work I'll change the springs, thanks. Mark

the gasket didn't fall off the oil filter did it?

I needed to adjust my air/fuel mix on my thermoquad, and it seems to like a hair over 3 turns, idles 800 rpm, and holds a steady 9 on the vacuum gauge, I don't know the cam size, but I know it has a lot of over lap, now what can I do about the fumes? I'm talking burn your eyes and make you cry...

40 bucks? hell yeah, buy it.

fsm=Factory Service Manual, I forget where I got mine, I know I got it from an ad in a mopar magazine, you can probably just google it. Mark

I thought I had it wrote down here, but I can't find it, if no one else chimes in, I'll post it in the morning, as my fsm's in the garage. Mark

the long L shaped brackets with a bolt hole on each end, mount from the bottom of the trans to the block, one of the triangle brackets are for the alt. the bottom hole shares the bolt with the long adjuster bracket you already have mounted, the bracket with 2 bolt holes and a big hole mounts on...

just pull the cotter pins, take the nuts off the tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm, slide the puller in place, tighten it down and things will pop apart, undo the motor mounts, raise the engine and unbolt the pan, just reverse things to put it back together, get a manual, fsm is best, but...

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/3.html look here

well it's in, I only lost a pint of blood and my religion, had to unhook the drag link, who ever put the tie rod on the car must have used loctight on the shaft, because I tore the **** out of my pickle fork, after beating on it fo an hour, I had the bright idea to put a pipe on it and see if I...

I have 2 dakota starters and 4-5 regular ones, the headers are headman, once the starters in place there is all kinds of room for either one, it just seems like with all that room they could have made a hole big enough to slide a starter in. lol. well I'm going to go try it again, thanks everyone.

I put the engine in the scamp and had one hell of a time geting the headers in, can I install the starter with them bolted up or do I have to unbolt the drivers side to get the starter on? any tips ? thanks in advance.

truck pan won't work in a car, and the roller motors just have roller lifters not roller rockers.

if you just want the stock manifolds, and want to pay shiping I have a few sets, and will send them to you.

sounds like you may have a cloged pick up, if the gauge checks out, drop the pan and take a look see, when you rev it up, it's sucking the oil thru the blockage, don't ask me how I know.

I have a few laying around, but I'm in ohio, if you pay shiping you can have it.

I think he's talking about the fuel line tab.