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I believe I am in the minority Flyfish; Offenhauser tunnel ram with two Holley 450's on a 415ci....

On my 360, I am running a starter from a 96 Dakote V-6, that should work for you as well.

My lawnmower has one, I bet its faster than yours!! hahah

Cast cranks are fine so long as they are used within thier limitations.

Oh, and mine was a 360

This is a thread about my Eagle cast 4 inch crank cracking. Read it all, the crank might have been fine if I were using good parts with it. I am just trying to give more info, not sway an opinion away from a cast unit. I have a forged Eagle in the stroker now...

I did the same modification to my block whn i built my 360 based stroker. I havent had the timming cover off yet to inspect anything, but the motor still runs!

Forged Eagle 4 incher.

yep, kinda crummy!I do have the new forged unit en-route though...

I recently cracked my cast Eagle crank, now I am ready to buy a new crank. Eagle or K1, both forged. The Eagle is 680 through Summit, vs. the K1 at 700 bucks. I haven’t personally heard much about the K1, so I am basically asking is there any personal experience out there with the K1?

What do you mean the crank reciever??

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/K1-cranks.html Scroll down to the Chrysler portion, 680 bucks. I have heard lots of good about them...

The ones I am finding are under 700 bucks, in comparison, a forged Eagle unit is 680 from summit. Thats not much more dough...

Does anybody have any input on the K1 crankshafts?

The convertor fit to the flexplate just fine and went into the trans pump just fine. I do not know how much off center the hub was welded though. There were NO vibrations or odd noises until it started thumping, it literally sounded just like a diesel engine. The pump bushing WAS destroyed...

And the rest... The motor puked in the pan...

...

Very true, Tis failure was caused by another faulty part.

Well I just found out the camera battery is dead, so when it’s done I’ll have pics for you. A buddy of mine is trying to talk me into fighting it with J&W, all the bearings, the gaskets, the crank, the cost of getting the convertor repaired by a competent company, I am out about 800-1000 bucks...

I pulled the motor on the valiant yesterday and got the bottom end apart to find out there is a crack on the crank. I was wondering what that noise was! This crack was induced by my convertor that was all jacked up, J&W Racing had welded the convertor hub off center, and I cracked the hub, sent...

I sprayed my 1008's with copper coat just fr the added sealing benifit and have had no problems out of them.

Same gasket I am running on my stroker motor, you will be fine flipping either way.

I would most definatly check clearances. What does a strip of Plastiguage cost, 2 bucks? Well worth the effort to check! I would never assume anything on an engine that I did not assemble.

Mostly street car. I have a 3500 stall on an 9 inch convertor and it is actually easy to drive on the street. It trapped at about 119 mph if I remember correctly, but I do not remember my ET. I wish I would have went solid instead of a Hydraulic.

I am running the XE285HL, 241/247 duration @ 50, 545 lift 110 cl. It is a hydraulic ft, I love the cam, pulls great, idles well and sounds awesome. Open header stroker valiant - YouTube Here is a video of it open headder, there are muffled videos as well.

Pressure is "sucked" from the motor via one of the full time ports on the carb. I had the carb off my car a while ago and forgot to put the PCV hose back on, went for a test drive and got oil all under the hood, hooked it back up and now its fine. If you are really interested in learning about...

More fun to drive ehh? Well I would keep it simple, new eddy airgap intake, eddy 1405 or 1406 carb, and a set of headders. Possibly upgrade the ignition system on the car as well.

You have the motot to pull right through the higher gears, that motor wont mind at all. you said it, lotsa tourque, you will be fine with those gears. I am soon to do the same thing so I can cruise the highway with my stroker.

How about putting a light checking valve spring, and get ahold of a dial indicator, and compare valve travel at tdc on all cylinders. That would tell ya if # 2 is moving up in the bore more yes?

No need to go to Eddy heads just cause you got a new cam. Check with the cam manufacture and get the correct springs for the cam and rock it as is! Thats what I would do anyways...